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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 01:05 PM
  #1  
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Help, no start.

My buddy went to start his truck this morning and it won't even crank. Batteries are good, # 30 fuse is good and no codes. When you turn the key on the WTS comes on. Just clicking on the passenger side fire wall and the solenoid on the starter was clicking.
Any other idea's? My next thought was to pull the starter and have it checked.
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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 01:13 PM
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Starter is the right place to look.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 02:22 PM
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Check for power to the starter 12V. Also do a voltage drop test on your cables and connections. Load test your batteries as well. Jeff
 
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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 06:47 PM
  #4  
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This is an update on the no start problem we were having with my buddies truck.
We took out the starter to have it tested at NAPA. It tested good. However after it was tested the manager at NAPA told the part s guy we were working with to warranty the starter. Seems the new tester that they got is not testing the starter properly. He told us that four starters he had tested, that tested good on the new tester, were toast. We installed the new starter and she fired right up. Kudos go out to the manager at NAPA for knowing his equipment and standing behind his products.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by IDPisan
This is an update on the no start problem we were having with my buddies truck.
We took out the starter to have it tested at NAPA. It tested good. However after it was tested the manager at NAPA told the part s guy we were working with to warranty the starter. Seems the new tester that they got is not testing the starter properly. He told us that four starters he had tested, that tested good on the new tester, were toast. We installed the new starter and she fired right up. Kudos go out to the manager at NAPA for knowing his equipment and standing behind his products.
The manager deserves some reps for doing what he did for you and your buddy.
Glad that it worked out in your favor.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 08:45 PM
  #6  
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Jeff, what NAPA was that? It can't be one in Boise. LOL.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 12:03 AM
  #7  
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Oh how I miss Idaho. I lived in the Bitterroot Mtn. Range. Near Orofino. Nothin but hills and valleys. Fishin on the Clearwater River for steelhead. Good times and great memories! Napa's back there are alot friendlier it seems than here in the bigger cities of Colorado. I used to train with the fire captian of the next town over. And he owned a Napa. Spent a few bucks in there cuz everyone was great and friendly. Here in Colorado all you got is a bunch of old coots who look at a young guy like myself and dismiss them right away.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 09:53 AM
  #8  
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Question

Originally Posted by IDPisan
My buddy went to start his truck this morning and it won't even crank. Batteries are good, # 30 fuse is good and no codes. When you turn the key on the WTS comes on. Just clicking on the passenger side fire wall and the solenoid on the starter was clicking.
Any other idea's? My next thought was to pull the starter and have it checked.
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Hello, it sounds like I have a similar problem. ('99, 7.3L, F350, automatic)
I am not sure if the solenoid on my starter is clicking (I'm gonna go check it when it stops raining here for a few). But here is the rest of the story: we left the cb on in the truck over night (oops!), so I put the charger on it yesterday afternoon, and would like to think by now the batteries are charged (battery gauge is in the middle), but still no start and no crank. So far I've checked the fuses - they all look good and I hear a click in one of the relays in the fuse block. One thing I also did notice was that after the WTS light goes off the battery light and oil light stay on, is this normal?

Any help would be appreciated, Thanks
 

Last edited by phix; Oct 6, 2009 at 09:57 AM. Reason: forgot something
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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 10:12 AM
  #9  
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The battery light tells you that the alternator is not charging which would be correct since the motor is not running. The Oil light is on because you have no oil pressure for the same reason,
Put a voltmeter on the battery and measure the voltage when trying to crank the motor. The voltage will drop while the glow plugs are on, the voltage will drop further when the starter is engaged. The voltage should not drop below 10.5 VDC on fully charged batteries.
If after the voltage drops when the glow plugs are energized and the voltage does not drop when you try to start the motor, you probably have a bad starter.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 01:39 PM
  #10  
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Updates:

I checked the solenoid, it wasn't clicking. A buddy of mine came over and was turning the key while I was underneath, he moved the gearshift a little and then it started. I tried that too, but guess I wasn't aggressive enough. He thought maybe the neutral saftey switch might be going? But anyways, it starts now so fixed for the time being.

Thanks again.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2009 | 01:43 PM
  #11  
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The neutral safety switch might just need an adjustment. Glad you got it figured out!
 
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