Can anyone validate this comment?
How do you actually know you're getting the best deal if you don't know where the numbers are coming from or how discounts are being applied?
My truck retailed for almost $62,000
Invoice was a little over $56,000
Rebates at the time only added up to $2,500
I paid $51,500 (not including tax/title)
Anyone who's remotely familiar with the car industry knows that cut waaaaaayyyy deep into the dealer holdback. I know I got a great deal at the time. Sure if I waited for better rebates I could have paid less, but at the time I needed the truck, and necessity trumped waiting for better rebates.
I only worked with one dealership and one sales consultant the entire time. No games, no hassles. Didn't use a D-plan or X-plan or any plan. And this truck was custom ordered by me, not a lot truck.
The more you know about the dealer sales process and dealer pricing on new vehicles, the easier it is to get a good deal, and the less hassle it becomes. It also helps to have a relationship with the dealer you are buying from and the sales consultant you are working with.
Playing games with dealers, using shoddy negotiation tactics, getting angry and frustrated, not doing homework/research, etc.... all make the car buying experience miserable and often times more expensive.
And we haven't even gotten into financing yet........

.... I just read through your email that you sent ZZZ about your thoughts on pricing. The invoice on the truck is
rebates - $3000. I unfortunately would not be interested in doing that. The price you were quoted cost after rebates + $1000makes the dealership $1000 which is not unreasonable for an $80,000 truck ....
Updated and clarified (hopefully) - Sorry. I should have been more clear. I am not actually trying to validate the $ numbers...so much as I am trying to validate the underlined
Last edited by Harold Graham; Dec 8, 2017 at 10:28 PM. Reason: i did not write that!
I say yes. Based on my purchase experience 2 weeks ago. I also agree that dealers are now using invoice sheets, holdback numbers, and dealer cost amounts as techniques to convince potential buyers that they are getting the best possible deal even when there is a significant amount of money left on the table.
Look at it this way... in today’s age of internet info and forums like this one, people who want a good deal and have done even a tiny bit of research know when they walk in the door that they don’t have to pay anything close to MSRP. Dealerships and the manufacturers know this! The game has changed significantly in the past 15 years. They have adapted! Back in the day “bait and switch” techniques were used by dealers. That stuff is well know by most nowadays. So they have other approaches.
Here’s why I call Bs on the OP’s dealer email: I was shopping for a 17 250 Platinum or KR. I had been researching options & prices and deals for a couple months. Found 5 within 2 hours of me that I was interested in. Took wife to look at a Platinum at the closest dealership. She liked it. We sat down to talk numbers and they went straight into talk about MSRP, invoice, holdback and A-Z pricing. My wife was initially thrown by all the jargon but then started doing the math on what they were telling us (she’s much smarter than I am and also claims I get emotionally attached to the truck I want to buy before I have it and don’t think straight. She’s probably right ) and she called them on their BS. They were saying they were only going to be making $100 on the deal. But what they were doing was adding the rebates into their cost to make it look like THEY were coughing up all that money instead of a chunk ($3500) coming from Ford. Then they stumbled around trying to tell us a different story to make things add up the same. She got up and walked out. I of course followed. They called an hour later saying they could do $500 better. I said based on my wife’s math they could easily do $1200 better. They said no chance. I said thanks for their time but we would keep looking.
They called me twice a day for three days offering better deals each time. I simply said no thank you. They finally called and said they would do it. I was at the dealership waiting for them to get their paperwork together and got a call from a dealership 30 minutes away. They had an almost identical Platinum. I told them I already had an amazing deal and told them what it was. Even though this new one had $1200 in more options, they said they would beat the bottom line by $250 and would sell me the Ford maintenance plan at $1 over cost. When I told the dealership I was at that I had just been offered a better deal they didn’t hesitate to meet it.
SO if they had REALLY already been selling it to me at a $1100 loss with no chance of making any of it back, WHY would they be so quick to lose another $250, and HOW could the other dealership possibly afford to sell the more expensive truck for such a loss!?
i felt that this dealership had just been jerking me around the entire time, so I drove to the other place (Marin County Ford in Novato, CA) and they had me in and out in no time. Zero hassle. No negotiation. Happy to sell me the truck. Which would have been at a loss of around $3000 according to the other dealership’s math.
So I asked the GM (who was just hanging out BSing with me about life & family) how it was possible they could do such a deal. Volume. Volume sales. The more they sell and the faster they sell the more Ford kicks back to them.
So the other place might not have had the ability to go deeper because they don’t sell as many, but when I am truck shopping I’m worried about my bank account, not the dealerships. To each their own though.
Morale of the story, if you think you might be able to get a better deal then go for it. The worst that will happen is they say no.
Oh, and concerns about service at the dealership after “beating them up” is silly IMO. I got the maintenance plan that is good at any dealership so I will take the truck to the closer place. I’ll take it there for warranty issues to. Because they will make $$ from Ford for doing the work. ZERO chance of them turning me away! I’ve been stationed all over this country and have never had one issue getting service done at any dealership even if I had tried to buy from them and went with a different dealer for a little more savings.
i hold no grudges towards that dealership. They played a fine game, but I ended up with the best deal somewhere else. Truth is, if they wouldn’t have taken so much time playing games and just did the deal I asked for in the beginning I would have already bought their truck days before the other place called me.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Holdback is there to compensate a dealership for costs associated with ordering, procuring, holding, advertising, and selling a vehicle, including overheads. If a dealership wants to move a vehicle it's had on it's lot for some time, they can sell it for what they paid for it and not lose money on it. They didn't MAKE money on it, but at least they didn't LOSE money on it. THAT is what holdback is "designed for".
And if you're confused by rebates, I don't know what to tell you. Negotiate your best deal, then the rebates are come off of that. Simple concept, really.
In fact, going off of nothing more than "getting 13.5% off MSRP" is actually MORE confusing and extremely vague. Why? Because that number does not account for rebates or any other manufacturer incentives, dealer discounts, etc. Some months the rebates/incentives are far better than others. For example....
2 people get the same truck at different times of the year, both get 13.5% off MSRP. One person had rebates of $2,500 when they purchased their truck, the other had rebates of $5,000. Who negotiated the better deal?
If you had half the rebates and still got the same price, it means you negotiated a better deal with the sales department, and the dealer took more off the price of the truck and made less profit than the one who got bigger rebates.
That's why these industry standard terms exist. Nothing about them is confusing.
13.5% off doesn't mean much without knowing rebates and holdback.
Let me simplify it.
$48500 = my msrp
$42000 = what I paid
$6500 = the discount off MSRP
6500/48500= .134 Or.... 13.4% off
So yeah it’s REAL simple.
Again, holdbacks and rebates and random dealer “fees” are absolutely designed to confuse the buyer.
Let me simplify it.
$48500 = my msrp
$42000 = what I paid
$6500 = the discount off MSRP
6500/48500= .134 Or.... 13.4% off
So yeah it’s REAL simple.
Again, holdbacks and rebates and random dealer “fees” are absolutely designed to confuse the buyer.
I tried to show the difference between dealer discounts and manufacturer rebates, and how the final vehicle price is settled by pointing out where discounts are coming from (manufacturer side vs dealer side). Understanding how pricing works is important for negotiating a deal.
Not understanding how discounts work is not a reason to bash it.








