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I am ready to start the refinishing of the chassis.
i will pressure wash & de-grease the chassis followed by wire brushing / sanding the chassis. I will most likely brush the paint / product on, but I can spray it if needed.
I have a couple of questions about materials to use please:
1. POR 15 cleaner, Prep. , rust Preventative and top Coat. Is it necessary to use a top coat after using the rust preventative? The literature says the top coat is UV resistant, not lot of UV rays are going to get through to the chassis!
2. Alternate prep and coating products / options? The POR 15 is kind of pricey.
I took mine to the bare frame and used a wet sand blaster with a pressure washer to knock off all the big chunks. Gave it a good cleaning with phosphoric acid then primed with rust-oleum primer and top coated with rust-oleum semi gloss black. It isn't as durable as the POR 15 but it is equal to the what the factory used. And way easy to fix if it gets dinged.
When I did the POR 15 on my old CJ7. I stripped the frame, applied the special POR 15 prep stuff. I then applied the POR 15 with a brush, using different size brushes to get into some of the crevices. After it cured I sprayed it with Rust Oleum hammered black. Turned out really well. I'll probably do my F100 the same way when I get ready.
I've never used POR 15 but I have seen a lot of pictures of jobs where it was used. So often it looks like - to me anyway - and maybe only if it is brushed on - like there is a grit to it, almost like it was mixed with sand. Is that just people painting it on over top of rust and the rust is causing the grit in it? Or does it have some grit to it right out of the can?
I've never used POR 15 but I have seen a lot of pictures of jobs where it was used. So often it looks like - to me anyway - and maybe only if it is brushed on - like there is a grit to it, almost like it was mixed with sand. Is that just people painting it on over top of rust and the rust is causing the grit in it? Or does it have some grit to it right out of the can?
Curious.
Chad
.
If I painted over rust, my Dad and Grandpa will come back and thump me! Some folks online have said POR 15 is designed to go over surface rust, not on clean prepped surfaces! No can do!!! I may go to Tractor Supply and Get Rustoleum Primer and Implement Paint!!
"if you don't know about something- return to what you do know about"
I've never used POR 15 but I have seen a lot of pictures of jobs where it was used. So often it looks like - to me anyway - and maybe only if it is brushed on - like there is a grit to it, almost like it was mixed with sand. Is that just people painting it on over top of rust and the rust is causing the grit in it? Or does it have some grit to it right out of the can?
Curious.
Chad
.
I think it is people painting over rust. Where I used it on sandblasted parts it came out pretty smooth, if I used a foam brush. One thing I did notice about the stuff was if you tried to use it on something that was sanded bright it didn't want to stick. And if you put on one coat it dries semi gloss but if you put on a second coat it will dry glossy. I felt like it was too expensive to use as an all over paint and just used it in places that were going to get a lot of abrasion from road grit.
I am ready to start the refinishing of the chassis.
i will pressure wash & de-grease the chassis followed by wire brushing / sanding the chassis. I will most likely brush the paint / product on, but I can spray it if needed.
I have a couple of questions about materials to use please:
1. POR 15 cleaner, Prep. , rust Preventative and top Coat. Is it necessary to use a top coat after using the rust preventative? The literature says the top coat is UV resistant, not lot of UV rays are going to get through to the chassis!
2. Alternate prep and coating products / options? The POR 15 is kind of pricey.
mark
I used Eastwoods rust encapsulator. Did the bottom of cab and frame. I wire wheeled the frame, pressure washed it, degreased it, applied rust encasulator with a brush and then painted over with gloss black. Here are some pics from about a 1 year ago. The frame is in driveway (no room in garage) and it's been tarped. So far, it looks like the day I applied it as in this picture. I won't know how well it will hold up once on the road (that's still a long ways off at my pace), but so far so good and it is easy to put on.
ive used rust-oleum rusty metal primer and gloss black top coat - i think brushed on worked best in my case - por15 is probly better but ive never used it as rust-oleum is a bit more cost effective IMO
have fun
Chad: A few years back, a friend of mine in BC bought a repop (Spectra Premium) gas tank for his Nova Drag Car, then I welded in a Competition Engineering sump, and had a rad shop tank it, solder over my welds (for insurance, then seal the inside of the tank with Red Kote. I shipped it back to him with a Por 15 starter kit, and after he had painted the tank, he called me and said "that stuff is magic" Both his tank, and any of the items my lil bro has done have turned out pretty smooth, it's amazing how much it flows out, and how much coverage you can get out of even a pint of the stuff
James
Originally Posted by TA455HO
I've never used POR 15 but I have seen a lot of pictures of jobs where it was used. So often it looks like - to me anyway - and maybe only if it is brushed on - like there is a grit to it, almost like it was mixed with sand. Is that just people painting it on over top of rust and the rust is causing the grit in it? Or does it have some grit to it right out of the can?
I did my frame probably 15 years ago on my 66 F100 with POR15. It still looks like the day I put it on. Power washed, degreased and put it on with a brush. As I recall, even with the brush it seemed to smooth out. You would never think it was done with a brush. Couldn't be happier with it. Matter of fact, I was so happy with it, I did the inner fenders, bottom of box, bottom of cab and radiator support with it.
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