Painting Frame
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Painting Frame
I am starting to work on painting the frame of my '80 F350. I've started to wire brush it to work off all of the rust and everything else that has built up on it. What else is there that I need to do before I am ready to paint? Any suggestions will help. Thanks.
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Hamilton, ohio
if you are taking it down to bare metal dupont makes metal conditioner #5717S. it is an acid concentrate for cleaning and conditioning of ferrous metals before painting. removes grease, rust, and corrosion. inhibits the formation or rust under paint and etches the metal to improve adhesion. after that you want to spray the frame with a self etching primer. use a good acryilic primer. if you let it dry for 24 hours or more you may have to wet sand before you paint. after all of that you are free to paint the frame. dupont also sells the primers in spray cans so if there are any hard to reach places you can use a can.
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I just finished wire wheeling my frame on an 84 f 150. I got all the loose stuff off, and just finished putting a coat of Rust oleum's Rust reformer. I guess it chemicaly nuetralizes the rust. My Uncle has told me lots of good things about this stuff. My plan is to put two coats of the reformer on, Rust Oleums Stops rust primer, and two coats of their stops rust black paint. I think that this will last for many years, and i would suggest doing this for your frame if you dont want to strip it down to bare metal. All of this stuff is brush on.
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I wire brushed mine, washed it good and painted it with brush on rustoleum red metal primer and satin black paint. I did 2 coats of each. It will leave brush streaks, though, but if it is pitted, it is kind of hard to tell. I am just saying, because if you are looking for a show finish, I would smooth the frame and spray instead, but for a really clean daily driver it looks great. I would put POR15 on if I was doing it again, though as this is really tough.
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From: Bellingham, WA
is it possible to do a good job without taking the bed off? if not how hard it is to remove the bed?
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Logistics Pro
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There is only 6 or eight bolts and the rear wiring harness, and the gas filler. I think it is easier with the bed off.
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I have the bed off mine. It was a mechanics bed. I had to remove the gas tank and muffler to get to two of the bolts. In all there were only 4 in it, two in the rear and two in the front so depending on what you've got will vary how hard it is at getting it off. But having the bed off makes it a lot easier it'll be getting it off of your truck once you have the bolts out that would be that hardest part.
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Willamette Valley Oregon
<cr>
It's a paint but before using it, you might want to consider that ZeroRust is better at preventing rust.
Len, of AutoBodyStore did a 16 month comparison test between POR15 and ZR. ZR won hands down. Take a look at these pics:
http://www.autobodystore.com/boattest2.jpg
The full story can be found here.
It's a paint but before using it, you might want to consider that ZeroRust is better at preventing rust.
Len, of AutoBodyStore did a 16 month comparison test between POR15 and ZR. ZR won hands down. Take a look at these pics:
http://www.autobodystore.com/boattest2.jpg
The full story can be found here.
Last edited by IB Tim; Mar 23, 2006 at 06:28 AM.
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Question about Cab
Hello, I hear everyone talking about removing the bed but what about the cab to finish the frame. Can it be done without removing it? Is it easy that way? are there any tips that can be suggested? Thank you for the help.
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i did mine with the cab on, and it wasnt too bad. Im not happy at all with my paint choice. I did 2 coats of rustoleum rust neutralizer, 2 coats of there primer, two coats of paint, and 3 coats of 3M rubberized undercoating back in the spring/fall. The truck sat untill febuary in a garage, and i had to take the bed off again, and saw rust allready coming through the undercoating.