Zero Rust paint texture on frame
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,072
Likes: 25
From: San Mateo, CA
Zero Rust paint texture on frame
Here's shots of how clean I got the frame prior to painting, followed by the mess I made trying to shoot it with Zero Rust through an HPLV gun, thinned with about 4oz of Xylene and 20oz of Zero Rust.
Surface prep was:
1) Wire wheel/DA sander down to metal
2) "Metal Ready" metal prep
3) Vigorous soap and water cleaning
4) Plenty of drying time
5) Wipedown with laquer thinner
6) Brushed on coat of Zero Rust (not happy with brush marks)
7) Three days of drying, thinking about what to do
8) DA sand down brush marks with 120 grit paper then 220 grit
9) Spray thinned down Zero Rust though HPLV gun
I'm still not 100% happy, but since it's the frame and won't be that visible I'm hoping I can get away without restripping it and repainting.
I've had very good luck using Zero Rust in aerosol cans to paint the floor pans and battery tray area of my Mustang. It turned out fantastic.
Here's the question: What do you think I did wrong to make the texture look like that? Is is just pure over application? Can you get Zero Rust to come out of a gun as smooth as it does out of aerosol cans?
Surface prep was:
1) Wire wheel/DA sander down to metal
2) "Metal Ready" metal prep
3) Vigorous soap and water cleaning
4) Plenty of drying time
5) Wipedown with laquer thinner
6) Brushed on coat of Zero Rust (not happy with brush marks)
7) Three days of drying, thinking about what to do
8) DA sand down brush marks with 120 grit paper then 220 grit
9) Spray thinned down Zero Rust though HPLV gun
I'm still not 100% happy, but since it's the frame and won't be that visible I'm hoping I can get away without restripping it and repainting.
I've had very good luck using Zero Rust in aerosol cans to paint the floor pans and battery tray area of my Mustang. It turned out fantastic.
Here's the question: What do you think I did wrong to make the texture look like that? Is is just pure over application? Can you get Zero Rust to come out of a gun as smooth as it does out of aerosol cans?
Last edited by F250Rob; Oct 29, 2006 at 01:43 PM.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 376
Likes: 0
beautiful job stripping that frame....must have been in fantastic shape to begin with since I see no pitting. You still must have worked your butt off though.
Paint looks to have been too thick...perhaps a standard spray gun with a big tip/needle arrangement would do better...the low pressure high volume guns are more suited to thinner stuff.
Ive had really good luck here in Buffalo ny...with snowplows and car/truck frames on restorations ...having a local firm steel grit (shot) blast the metal to a white condition and coating with Imron 62 industrial polyurethane (2 part) primer and coating with Imron industrial top coat...its not that expensive compared to other coatings and is very abrasion resistant and good in the weather....even here in Buffalo.
one thing about grit blasting though is it finds any bad spots in the metal and if you start with something thats really pitted and rusted youre gonna be doing some welding to patch up...but thats actually good in the case of a frame....your frame was solid and would have been a perfect candidate for blasting...would have saved you hours of back breaking work....
Paint looks to have been too thick...perhaps a standard spray gun with a big tip/needle arrangement would do better...the low pressure high volume guns are more suited to thinner stuff.
Ive had really good luck here in Buffalo ny...with snowplows and car/truck frames on restorations ...having a local firm steel grit (shot) blast the metal to a white condition and coating with Imron 62 industrial polyurethane (2 part) primer and coating with Imron industrial top coat...its not that expensive compared to other coatings and is very abrasion resistant and good in the weather....even here in Buffalo.
one thing about grit blasting though is it finds any bad spots in the metal and if you start with something thats really pitted and rusted youre gonna be doing some welding to patch up...but thats actually good in the case of a frame....your frame was solid and would have been a perfect candidate for blasting...would have saved you hours of back breaking work....
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,072
Likes: 25
From: San Mateo, CA
I still may go that route. It's only the back end off the truck right now, but I'm considering going postal and tearing it all down, then taking the frame to get it done right.
Thanks for the compliment, but I actually didn't have to work that hard to get it that clean...there was just slight surface rust down there. It's a west coast truck originally...
Thanks for the compliment, but I actually didn't have to work that hard to get it that clean...there was just slight surface rust down there. It's a west coast truck originally...
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,094
Likes: 654
From: Brentwood, TN
With all the work you put into prepping that frame you should have used something other than Zero Rust...rust-encapsulating paints do just that, they bond to rust and seal it from the air. By the time you were finished with cleaning your frame there was no rust left to encapsulate...shoulda just gone ahead with a good metal etching primer and then a nice automotive paint.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,072
Likes: 25
From: San Mateo, CA
I see what you mean. I was thinking that the Zero Rust would provide a tougher finish than the standard paints, but didn't really look into it that deeply.
If I let it dry really well, sand out the rough texture, and repaint with something else on the parts of the frame that show inside the fender area, I'm thinking it should be alright.
If I let it dry really well, sand out the rough texture, and repaint with something else on the parts of the frame that show inside the fender area, I'm thinking it should be alright.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,493
Likes: 7
From: Erie, pa
Rob
At least you kmow you have a nice thick coat on.
Is it going to be a "Go Job" or a "Show Job", if I was doing a driver I'd be more worried about good coverage and protection.
Just tell everyone it's a special paint and the wrinkles are for Aero reasons.
At least you kmow you have a nice thick coat on.
Is it going to be a "Go Job" or a "Show Job", if I was doing a driver I'd be more worried about good coverage and protection.
Just tell everyone it's a special paint and the wrinkles are for Aero reasons.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 8,094
Likes: 654
From: Brentwood, TN
It will cure to a nice hard finish in time...unfortunately that time may be measured in weeks. When it does cure you should be able to knock it down fairly easily on the flat areas with a DA and then spray a nice finsh coat over it. The good news is that you now have a very durable coating on your chassis that should last a lifetime!
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Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,072
Likes: 25
From: San Mateo, CA
It's a "go job". The intent is to make it as durable as possible so the family can enjoy it for another 50 years. Sounds like 1/2 inch thick coverage of ZR will help in that regard...
I want it to look good too, but not for show. Guess it's good to keep reminding myself that to avoid getting too nit picky.
Once this truck is finished, I may do a show project sometime in the future, and hopefully the skills I get "preserving" this truck will help.
I want it to look good too, but not for show. Guess it's good to keep reminding myself that to avoid getting too nit picky.
Once this truck is finished, I may do a show project sometime in the future, and hopefully the skills I get "preserving" this truck will help.
Last edited by F250Rob; Oct 29, 2006 at 08:19 PM.
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