When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I only drove the truck about a mile to fill it up yesterday. I realized last night cleaning up I forgot to reinstall the screen in the pick up foot...it's staying out now. Anyway driving that mile last night and parking it, I went out to check for leaks this morning. Everything was bone dry BUT the filter has already caught debris that would have otherwise made it through the pump.
I'm sure some of you are chuckling about the plastic bottle over the filter but if think about how durable plastic bottles are it really does provide cheap, easy on/off protection. Even if I do a bash plate down the line I'll keep the plastic bottle on the filter.
That's quite a bit of debris for such a short period of time! Nice clean and creative work.
That's what I was thinking too. But I figure it was a combination of very low fuel level in tank and no pick up screen on the foot. Eventually I think the filter will help eliminate anything that was previously in the tank. Probably should have cleaned it and ran the fuel through a funnel with some coffee filters but that ain't happening now.
The truck has 376K on it, here's what the screens looked like when I pulled them out. I'm thinking someone replaced them at least once. I can't imagine 376K and the screens are that clean compared to what my filter has already removed and others I've seen posted here.
John, about a week after doing the hutch mod and installing the Racor I had debris in the Racor canister as well. Not nearly that much, but it looked very similar. I also contributed it to removing the sending unit and screens.
Since the initial dumping and cleaning of debris out of the Racor, I have not seen any other trash or debris getting into the Racor or the filter.
Mark, I put a new foot and screen on the bottom of the sending unit tube. I managed to get the prongs on the foot to be about 1/8" from the bottom of the tank with very little fuel in it. In my reasoning, this simulated the fuel level being low instead of high (which may lower the bottom of a the tank a bit) and when the fuel level goes down the foot would be pressed against the bottom of the tank.
The intake tube was very tightly fit into the pickup foot hole and it ends about 1/2" above the screen of the foot. This way, if the foot does break up and fall to pieces again in the future, the sending unit tube is still about 3/4" or slightly less from the bottom of the tank.
I also extended the return line probably much further than needed. I did not want bubbles of any sort being sucked back into the sending unit though. I think I made the return line after it makes the turn out of the sending unit to a horizontal path along the bottom of the tank about 1.5'. It looked ridiculous putting it back in the tank, but it made sense to me and there was nothing lost as the pipe would have been put on the shelf as scrap anyway.
EDIT: Here is a picture from my thread about doing the mod.
John, about a week after doing the hutch mod and installing the Racor I had debris in the Racor canister as well. Not nearly that much, but it looked very similar. I also contributed it to removing the sending unit and screens.
Since the initial dumping and cleaning of debris out of the Racor, I have not seen any other trash or debris getting into the Racor or the filter.
Alright, good to know. I figure eventually any large contaminates will be removed from the fuel tank.
I just did my HPOP lines. Get the line removal tool. Also, replace the o-rings in the head fittings, or save the PITA and get all new fittings. If you decide to replace the o-rings, remove the fittings from the head to do it. I needed a dental pick to remove the old o-rings and three hands to install the new ones.
After removing the old lines, oil just kept spewing out of the head into my nice dry valley. Don’t know if there is a way to cleanly drain the HPOP/head oil or not. Just FYI.
It took about 30 seconds of cranking to get her started after all my under hood work, but don’t know if that was from the HPOP lines or something else. No issues.
Originally Posted by Colorado350
I'm gonna swap out the HPOP lines for the new ones. Anything I should know beforehand? Any problems afterwards like rough idle or running? Thanks
I'm gonna swap out the HPOP lines for the new ones. Anything I should know beforehand? Any problems afterwards like rough idle or running? Thanks
As ArmyLifer said, get the fittings for the heads and HPOP as well as they could cause problems down the road. They are cheap and easy to do once you have the hose off. Loctite (RiffRaff sells it too) is required for the HPOP side.
The tool is nice to have, but not required. Even with the tool the passenger side hose would not come off the fitting, so I unscrewed the fitting and threw the entire assembly out of the garage with a good amount of disgrace for it.
Once you get everything back on, fill the HPOP reservoir to about 1/2" from the surface and start cranking the engine. It will start, may run rough for a short bit, but it will clear up. Check for leaks while it is warming up and take it for a test drive.
Well, I went through the first full tank of fuel since doing the H&H mod. The Low Fuel light came and I filled up within 2 miles. The tank took 33 gallons till the pump shut off. So that means the tank had 6 gallons left in it when the light came on. Does that sound about right for a 39 gallon?
