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I have narrowed the heating issues on my 2001 Ranger to either the Potentiometer (heater control) or the Blend Door Actuator. I watched the DIY videos and the parts shown do not look like mine. I tried to buy a Potentiometer at our Ford place but the one they tried to sell me (Motorcraft YH1802) is different from the one in my Ranger. I gave the Ford guy the part number of my Potentiometer and he said he could not get it anywhere. When I type in my part numbers for these parts on the online parts places it comes back as "0" results. Any suggestions? Thanks
I have narrowed the heating issues on my 2001 Ranger to either the Potentiometer (heater control) or the Blend Door Actuator. I watched the DIY videos and the parts shown do not look like mine. I tried to buy a Potentiometer at our Ford place but the one they tried to sell me (Motorcraft YH1802) is different from the one in my Ranger. I gave the Ford guy the part number of my Potentiometer and he said he could not get it anywhere. When I type in my part numbers for these parts on the online parts places it comes back as "0" results. Any suggestions? Thanks
Sure would be nice to know if you have factory A/C or not. Reason is, some Rangers without A/C didn't use a pot and blend door actuator, they used a cable setup (manual linkage). And if this is the case, then of course, none of those parts in the video will look like yours.
I have narrowed the heating issues on my 2001 Ranger to either the Potentiometer (heater control) or the Blend Door Actuator. I watched the DIY videos and the parts shown do not look like mine. I tried to buy a Potentiometer at our Ford place but the one they tried to sell me (Motorcraft YH1802) is different from the one in my Ranger. I gave the Ford guy the part number of my Potentiometer and he said he could not get it anywhere. When I type in my part numbers for these parts on the online parts places it comes back as "0" results. Any suggestions? Thanks
Sure would be nice to know if you have factory A/C or not. Reason is, some Rangers without A/C didn't use a pot and blend door actuator, they used a cable setup (manual linkage). And if this is the case, then of course, none of those parts in the video will look yours.
It is a factory air truck. The Potentiometer has two wires that run directly into the actuator. I notice that in the videos the wires that run to the actuator do not come directly from the Potentiometer - they originate somewhere behind the air bag.
I think that the actuator may be the problem but I am having trouble removing it. I can remove the front 2 screws but I have not been able to get at the one at the rear. Right now my hands are scratched and bleeding, I am frustrated and I think I'll have a nap.
If I can get the actuator out I am not sure where I will get a replacement because the part number does not register - even on the Ford parts website.
I think that the actuator may be the problem but I am having trouble removing it. I can remove the front 2 screws but I have not been able to get at the one at the rear.
FWIW, according to the '01 Ford Ranger Manual, another way to get at that rear screw is by removing the defrost vent panel (the one up close to the windshield).
Temperature Blend Door Actuator - Removal and Installation
All Vehicles
Rotate the temperature control **** to the full COOL position.
Remove the passenger air bag module. For additional information, refer to Section 501-20B.
Vehicles With Anti Theft/Keyless Entry: Remove the screws and position aside the anti theft/keyless entry module.
Detach and position aside the electrical connector.
Detach and position aside the RH demister hose.
Release the two clips and detach the temperature blend door control cable.
Remove the defroster opening grill.
Working through the opening near the RH defroster nozzle, remove the screw.
Remove the [remaining] screws and remove the temperature blend door actuator.
To install, reverse the removal procedure.
If installing a new temperature blend door actuator, rotate the control shaft to the full COOL position.
OK, I'll have a look at the defrost vent tomorrow. I tried the technique in the video but there does not seem to be as much room above my actuator as in the video. My hands are a bit too large so I might be able to talk my wife into trying it. What PITA!
OK, I'll have a look at the defrost vent tomorrow. I tried the technique in the video but there does not seem to be as much room above my actuator as in the video. My hands are a bit too large so I might be able to talk my wife into trying it. What PITA!
Something to consider: try and use a ratchet with a small head, as well as a socket with a small profile. Maybe even consider a 1/4" "breaker bar" type of tool in lieu of a ratchet at first.
If you go the defrost vent route, let us know how it goes.
OK, I owe my wife a steak dinner. She got her hand and a small ratchet to the back of the actuator and gradually got the screw out. Here is the latest. There is a stud that sticks out of the actuator into the heater box. I assume this is what moves the blend door. The stud does rotate when I turn the temperature control from cold to hot, etc. I guess the next step will be to cut a hole in the heater box to see what the blend door looks like.
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