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HPOP Questions -- Rebuilding Plug

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Old 11-01-2017, 08:06 PM
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HPOP Questions -- Rebuilding Plug

Hi All,

I pulled the HPOP as I have something fierce of an oil leak and a Ford tech I brought it to said this was it. He wanted me to buy a new pump but I'm cheap so here I am doing it myself...

I have a couple 'curiosity' questions... Is there a label on the original pump? I wonder if this is a second from a previous owner.





I'm going to reseal the 'non-serviceable' plug as the tech sealed all the other ones and it didn't fix the leak. Does the stock/unadulterated pump plug look like this with black material coming out of it?





Last question... Why in this tutorial do they tell you to take the ball and edge filter out? I'm fixing to leave that damn thing in there or I'll lose it.

http://www.dieselorings.com/docs/service_plug.pdf


Thanks Fellas!
 
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Old 11-02-2017, 10:15 AM
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Looks like the plug may have worked loose and pushed out the O-ring or it was cut when it was installed. I think the reasoning for removing the filter and ball is to be able to thoroughly clean the area where the plug goes.
 
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Old 11-02-2017, 10:49 AM
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The reason to take them out is to get all the oil film off and all parts clean before re-assembly so the lock tite sets up
 
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Old 11-02-2017, 12:06 PM
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Following long as I'm about to do this on the wife's EX.
 
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Old 11-02-2017, 12:44 PM
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Fordboy2-- I found this video to be extremely helpful.

Also you may as well do this too while you have it off:

Mine was sort of caked up with soot.

I'm 90% certain if I start taking tiny parts out of this pump I'm going to lose them... I'm going to try to cotton swab things.

Does locktite go on the IPR threads as well?
 
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Old 11-02-2017, 01:56 PM
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Perhaps I can help you when you do it... I was quite confused with the 'edge filter'.

I thought it was the sleeve that the ball sits in. That sleeve is part of the housing. The edge filter just slides out as its own separate piece. You can slide it out the 'non-serviceable' plug hole with a pick. The write up does not make that clear.

As far as the ball-- I never did take that out but it doesn't look that hard. I would strongly recommend using the cardboard box technique discussed since it is quite small and 50/50 chance of losing it. May just want to buy another in case so you don't blow a gasket when you lose it.

Overall I managed to do it without taking the ball or the edge filter out but I probably should have. I cleaned the threads very well with a dental pick, cotton swabs, brake cleaner and a tooth brush. Cotton swaps are sort of a poor tool since they come apart and of course you don't want cotton fibers in there... There is quite a bit of old Loctite that comes out of the threads... This method probably takes too long.

http://www.dieselorings.com/docs/service_plug.pdf
 
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Old 11-03-2017, 05:20 PM
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Hit a snag-- Has anyone ever twisted one of the bolts that hold the cover of the HPOP bolt to the block?

I'm pretty sure I twisted it off into the block. What really pisses me off is I even used a torque wrench!!
 
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Old 11-03-2017, 06:46 PM
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You didn't set to ft/lbs what should have been in/lbs, did you? That's not a place where I would even use a torque wrench but that's another story. It shouldn't be hard to get, maybe a PITA. You could well be able to just reach in there with your fingers and spin it out.
 
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Old 11-03-2017, 07:04 PM
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The guide calls 15-24 ft-lbs. I set it @ 20 and let 'er rip. The other side is fine.

I'm going to see if the RTV and 1 sided will hold. That would be a real bear to ez-out. I imagine you'd have to take the whole front of the truck off (fan, rad at least...).

http://www.dieselorings.com/docs/service_plug.pdf
 
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Old 11-03-2017, 07:14 PM
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Which bolt did you snap? This way I know where to take caution.
 
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Old 11-04-2017, 07:50 AM
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I'll check in the garage to verify it but you might be able pull the HPOP reservoir off the top of the engine you can remove the HPOP drive gear and have access to the area you're talking about. One other thing...I'm guessing that the bolt snapped because you tightened it too much, not because the threads bound up. Those will quite often come out easy once you get a hold of them. One trick I use for those is to take a small drill bit and break the end off of it so it's rough and sometimes you can put the drill in reverse and work them out.
 
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Old 11-06-2017, 01:15 AM
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I've drove the truck 100mi and it appears to be sealed up just with the RTV-- I think I'm just going to chance it and run it. If it does blow out I think I'll know about it pretty quick with a pool of oil under the engine.

Fordboy-- I broke one of the two bolts that holds the service door cover on the front of the engine that covers up the gear bolt you will need to remove. I torqued to 20ft-lbs and spun it off. I'd be careful, then again maybe it's just my bad luck there.

On a positive note doing the non-serviceable plug overhaul solved the oil leak!
 
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Old 11-06-2017, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by beefey
I've drove the truck 100mi and it appears to be sealed up just with the RTV-- I think I'm just going to chance it and run it. If it does blow out I think I'll know about it pretty quick with a pool of oil under the engine.

Fordboy-- I broke one of the two bolts that holds the service door cover on the front of the engine that covers up the gear bolt you will need to remove. I torqued to 20ft-lbs and spun it off. I'd be careful, then again maybe it's just my bad luck there.

On a positive note doing the non-serviceable plug overhaul solved the oil leak!
The threads on my pump casting were pretty messed up and the plug was finger tight when I took it out. I was happy to see the replacement plug had a lot more threads on it so it could grab on too some clean threads on the pump body.
 
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Old 11-11-2017, 07:37 AM
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How is the rebuild coming along?
 
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