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from @Buliwyf : The factory spec for caster is a bit sucky. Try more.
From @CO Wapiti: I’m going to be the third one to say get more caster. Did they actually show you the computer print out of the alignment?
A lot of guys don’t want to bother with changing the castor bushings but it will make a big difference in your overall steering experience if you are on the heavy side of factory specs.
From @FONRDAY: If your castor bushing are stock. You will never win the battle.
And could very likely find more from several guys on this forum who understand what causes DW and how to fix it.
Originally Posted by SubCultureNM
Our '17 250 CCSB 4x4 6.7 started to develop minor wobble after a trip from Houston to Montana in August of '17 with our Jeep and redneck toy hauler. I estimate the trailer and Jeep weigh ~13k combined. When we got back to Houston the truck went into the dealership and they pulled the steering stabilizer card on me. Also had the service manager try to blame my lack of tire rotations (considering I have a coworker with a '17 who has NEVER rotated his tires, and doesn't have DW). Having dealt with coil-sprung Jeeps for so long, I'll tell you that DW on one of those is MOST often due to a loose track bar or bad ball joints, and is made worse by insufficient caster.
So the tire rotations and an alignment kept the DW at bay for about a year, but in the last couple months it's gotten progressively worse. This past weekend, again, with the trailer, I had it happen twice between 75 and 80 mph, and had to slow to below 60 mph to get it under control. It's at the dealership again, with 600 miles left on the warranty.
After inspection, they found "a bad steering stabilizer" (which is also, now, a TSB from Ford for the DW, according to the service manager!) BUT they also found a worn axle-side track bar joint. I guarantee you that the joint is the problem. They're replacing it all under warranty, as well as performing the fuel tank TSB, so I should have the truck back next week. I'm cautiously optimistic that the TB joint is the problem--it's completely ludicrous to me that they're using a big TRE for the track bar instead of a standard joint, when that joint doesn't move in multiple planes.
It would have been interesting to see what the caster adjustment would have done without a new stabilizer. Now we can't be sure which change has caused the improvement.
Gary
I am of a scientific mind, therefore, I agree. I am not sure which improved my situation, but I figure both could not have hurt.
Running caster at under 2* is nonsense. The steering will feel like crap coming out of turns as the steering will be very sluggish to track straight forward again. So the truck is telling you something. The reason trucks came from the factory at 4*+ caster is because that is where it is supposed to be.
UNTIL THE PROBLEM IS FOUND, THE DW WILL NOT GO AWAY. Installing another crappy stock SS and running caster too shallow will not fix the problem.
As stated, mine was set to 2.3 and 2.2. I do not feel or notice any poor steering from changing from 4.0 and 4.3. And again, why would Ford release reoccurring TSBs to fix wheel oscillation (aka Death Wobble) by decreasing the caster?
Why would Ford sell trucks with front ends that can wear so quickly to the point of severe death wobble on nearly new trucks? Why would Ford sell junk shocks on these trucks?
They can recommend dialing in less caster, but that is not going to fix the problem at all. Finding what part(s) are sloppy [including tires if applicable] and replacing them with GOOD parts and then a proper alignment with sufficient caster is what will fix these solid axle front ends. NOT less caster LOL.