You don't just outright need caster cams. You need to find out what your caster angles are, get a legit alignment with a print out. You ideally want to be around 3-3.5, they will be different from left to right slightly to account for road crown.

If it's off, then a caster cam is one way to adjust it. Your 4 link setup might already account for it.

 

I have an appointment with a reputable shop, will report back.

 

i used 2.6* shims on passenger side and 2.3* on driver. truck drove ok, but pulled to driver side. Installed the Carli 2* shims, truck drives straight no wobble. This is with full Carli 2.5" kit. I truly believe the track bar is the major cause of most wobble/death wobble issues

 

Making sure the track bar & drag link are parallel is most important and everything is tight. You must not have a lot of crown in your streets if you can match the caster shims both sides.

 

Hi, out of curiosity, is there a commonality with these DW experiences. Is it a certain wheelbase, tire size, lift, etc? I own a 17, it is a SC 2WD 6.75 bed XL. Love the truck, should I invest in a stabilizer for the front end?

 

its common when the front end geometry isnt right.

a quick explanation for the people that dont know whats going on. when the drag link and track bar dont have the same path of travel , the drag turns the steering knuckles, tie rod and tires to one side or the other when you hits bumps and the axle goes up and down. once people can visualize it in their mind, it will all make perfect sense whats happening

when geometry is correct, tires stay straight ahead as axle moves up and down

 

 

Is anyone getting this fixed under warrenty?

 

When they understand this and torquing to specs with 70/75Lbs tires, their problems will most likely disappear.

 

disregard was something else.

 

Our '17 250 CCSB 4x4 6.7 started to develop minor wobble after a trip from Houston to Montana in August of '17 with our Jeep and redneck toy hauler. I estimate the trailer and Jeep weigh ~13k combined. When we got back to Houston the truck went into the dealership and they pulled the steering stabilizer card on me. Also had the service manager try to blame my lack of tire rotations (considering I have a coworker with a '17 who has NEVER rotated his tires, and doesn't have DW). Having dealt with coil-sprung Jeeps for so long, I'll tell you that DW on one of those is MOST often due to a loose track bar or bad ball joints, and is made worse by insufficient caster.

So the tire rotations and an alignment kept the DW at bay for about a year, but in the last couple months it's gotten progressively worse. This past weekend, again, with the trailer, I had it happen twice between 75 and 80 mph, and had to slow to below 60 mph to get it under control. It's at the dealership again, with 600 miles left on the warranty.

After inspection, they found "a bad steering stabilizer" (which is also, now, a TSB from Ford for the DW, according to the service manager!) BUT they also found a worn axle-side track bar joint. I guarantee you that the joint is the problem. They're replacing it all under warranty, as well as performing the fuel tank TSB, so I should have the truck back next week. I'm cautiously optimistic that the TB joint is the problem--it's completely ludicrous to me that they're using a big TRE for the track bar instead of a standard joint, when that joint doesn't move in multiple planes.

 

 

Yeah I know you got an alignment and its in "spec" but, fact is you took some caster out and caster is what keeps you stable. I would want to be on the high end of the spec of the caster, especially if I was having some wobble. What is the spec and current caster?

 

tie rod end

 

Here's my fix for the death wobble: new front end rebuild. But my case is likely different than most of yours, mine is due to worn out parts & bad tires. Anyway, I'm filming the process, part one is done: