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Bits of glow plugs flying out. Timing advance on the IDI is limited by what the glow plugs can take rather than what may produce optimal performance or economy. 8*-10* at 2000 RPM is a safe range. Do not go more than 10*, as that is where people have reported glow plug damage.
will I expect to see what I feel is excessive csmoke on firm acceleration? when slightly advanced from static dead center
exhaust effluent seems to have become heavier recently or I'm just noticing it more.
will I expect to see what I feel is excessive csmoke on firm acceleration? when slightly advanced from static dead center
exhaust effluent seems to have become heavier recently or I'm just noticing it more.
What are you calling "static dead center"? The tick marks on the pump? That is just were the factory set it long ago. When things are changed those marks don't mean much.
static dead center. yes those marks on 12 o'clock.
i think from what you say , i will retard a bit and see if i can get back to the haze instead the black-er smoke .
Setting to the marks on the gear housing and pump just means it's close enough to run, not necessarily that it's safe to run there. It could be way advanced or way retarded. Too far retarded and EGT will be excessively high possibly melting pistons, and it'll likely have excessive smoke (gray or light colored). Too far advanced and glow plugs are the first victim, far enough advanced and accelerated rod bearing wear can occur.
Stop guessing, just set it to 9* at 2000 RPM (+/- 1*) and it'll be good. When I set mine from 2.5* to 9* I saw a 2.5-3 MPG increase in mixed driving, and nearly eliminated the gray smoke problem it had.
But you need the special equipment to time it, I am thinking he doesn't have it. I know I don't. If I ever need to do it, I guess that is when I will blow the $300 + it takes to buy it all. My timing light doesn't have the dial back on it, so I would have to get one of those also.
You're looking at about $275 to your door if you don't have a dial back timing light, not quite $300+. Bottom line is you need this if you own an IDI, or you risk a lot more than $275 in damage to the engine and you'll absolutely waste more than that in fuel if your timing is retarded.
Figuring 8.5 MPG vs 11.5 MPG, the difference I saw with my clapped out pump and injectors from settings timing properly (MPG increased more with new pump and injectors), that's only 3,370 miles to ROI at current fuel prices. That's $980/yr fuel savings assuming 12,000 miles/yr. If the complaint is about not being able to afford tools, the reality is if you're poor or cheap you can't afford not to own these tools.
I can't bring myself to mess with it yet. With 35 inch tires, 4 inch lift, zf 5 speed and 4.10 gears I get 15mpg on the highway. Starts right up, runs well. Has 148,000 on the engine and the pump/injectors. It just runs too good to mess with it.
Just made two trips the other day hauling cinder blocks. 35lbs a piece, 200 per load. That was 7000lbs on my trailer and that is all I wanted for a hour trip. A little slow up the mountain on route 7, but I was in no hurry.