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That wire is the ground strap it goes to the block on the ps rear of the head. Pull the ficm relay while you are cranking the engine over. It's going to take quite a bit of cranking for the oil pressure to come up. You drained both oil rails and the injectors so it's needs to fill everything with oil again and build pressure. Watch your ICP pressure and once it hits 500 put the relay back in and it should fire. Keep the batteries on a charger while cranking.
Damn truck--my ICP is 1800 cranking. FICM says 47.5. My on dash oil pressure is half way up the scale. Sync is right. Everything is the same as before I re-built the injectors. Glad the bubbling is gone. Is there a way to verify that fuel is getting to the injectors? The white smoke coming out now while cranking--is this oil or diesel? Is there a chance that the ficm is crappy even though it is reading 47.5v? This no start thing just happened overnight. Charging her up again and will go crank on it in a couple hours. Thanks
For checking the fuel you could loosen one of the banjo bolts on the front of the head and watch for fuel spray. Do you have any injector codes? Maybe recheck that the ficm plugs are fully seated into the case. If it's cold plug the block heater in also just to help with starting. The smoke could be residual oil from the injectors being pulled.
For checking the fuel you could loosen one of the banjo bolts on the front of the head and watch for fuel spray. Do you have any injector codes? Maybe recheck that the ficm plugs are fully seated into the case. If it's cold plug the block heater in also just to help with starting. The smoke could be residual oil from the injectors being pulled.
I was real careful when plugging in the FICM. I did just watch a video on the banjo bolts. The day this truck stopped working the only code that came up was a trailer brake code and I ignored that. It's been in the 60's while working on the truck so it's plenty warm. That ground wire I mentioned earlier has been cut with a sheers or something but don't think that would keep it from starting.
Hook up ForScan and do a buzztest just to see if the injectors buzz.
I can hear the injectors and the glow plugs and fuel pump. I did download forscan and I did purchase the scanner for the forscan but haven't done any testing with it as of yet. Do you thing forscan can tell me anything just from cranking? Thanks
ForScan will help. Load
RPM greater than 150 needed
IPR % while cranking
ICP greater than 500psi
ICPV
FICM main power 45-48.5v while cranking
FICM logic power 14-10.5v
Fuel pulse width
FICM sync yes
Check for codes. Usually come up when ForScan is connecting to the ECM
Another thought check the plug and wires for the fan clutch. There are times it will short out and cause a no start.
ForScan will help. Load
RPM greater than 150 needed
IPR % while cranking
ICP greater than 500psi
ICPV
FICM main power 45-48.5v while cranking
FICM logic power 14-10.5v
Fuel pulse width
FICM sync yes
Check for codes. Usually come up when ForScan is connecting to the ECM
Another thought check the plug and wires for the fan clutch. There are times it will short out and cause a no start.
Hey--Finally hooked up the Forscan ELM and received all kinds of codes--27 I believe. Not sure where to begin. I wrote them all down below and scanned it into a file and will show you here. I just noticed that my scans are also saved in a file on this pc. Oh well--here is my mess. Thanks
Check your fan wiring.... You seem to have wires shorted somewhere.
Richard
Richard--Checked the plug--still attached and in real good shape. Thinking my situation might be wiring with all the rodents here. Was hoping it would be something simple like the FICM or something though. Like I say--Not sure what to do first--ha.
Well since you have the codes written down and holy s*** by the way I would clear them and see what codes come back when you key on.
As for the intake temp that one should be easy to find it’s the sensor in the air filter housing.
The exhaust pressure sensor is either on the thermostat housing or the driverside manifold below the degas bottle. Check it for cuts or chew marks.
Check the plugs going into the PCM and follow the wires as far as you can and look for chaffing.
I would have to look for the pinout for the PCM plugs and see if they are related to one plug.
I’ll see what I can find. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ed-2006-a.html
Last edited by FiznUKa; Nov 21, 2017 at 09:20 PM.
Reason: Addition
Well since you have the codes written down and holy s*** by the way I would clear them and see what codes come back when you key on.
As for the intake temp that one should be easy to find it’s the sensor in the air filter housing.
The exhaust pressure sensor is either on the thermostat housing or the driverside manifold below the degas bottle. Check it for cuts or chew marks.
Check the plugs going into the PCM and follow the wires as far as you can and look for chaffing.
I would have to look for the pinout for the PCM plugs and see if they are related to one plug.
I’ll see what I can find. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ed-2006-a.html
Hey--the wife said we should just drop the truck off at your place on the way to Washington next month--ha. I didn't have the air cleaner in when I ran the scan. This might have sent the code for the intake temp. I'll check the rest tomorrow I hope. I mentioned all the rodents around here before. This no start came overnight. I looked up the FICM plug arrangement and noticed that my codes are coming from one plug. The codes are 1, 4, 6 and 7 injectors. This is the plug farthest to the rear of the ficm. I think some of the other codes might be coming from one of the other plugs. Anyway, think i'll order a new ficm to injector wire harness. It appears that the existing harness has to be torn apart in order to add a new FICM harness. I see the ipr and ground aren't included in this harness and a WHOLE ENGINE HARNESS doesn't include the FICM to injector harness. Any ideas on that? I see used WHOLE ENGINE HARNESS's for sale on Craigslist. Thanks for all the other ideas.
I think your close to starting it. I know it’s a little work but I would remove the FICM plugs and check for bent pins then reseat them making sure they snap into place and are held tight before you order a harness. As for the bonding strap just use a butt connector for now until you can hit up a junkyard and find another one. As for the CMP/CKP codes they may have come from continuous cranking as well as the ICP code. But for sure check the EBP sensor if it’s shorted you will lose the REF volts to the rest of the engine sensors.
The fuel inertia switch may just need to be reset but if you have 60psi KOEO that suggests the fuel pumps working.
I think your close to starting it. I know it’s a little work but I would remove the FICM plugs and check for bent pins then reseat them making sure they snap into place and are held tight before you order a harness. As for the bonding strap just use a butt connector for now until you can hit up a junkyard and find another one. As for the CMP/CKP codes they may have come from continuous cranking as well as the ICP code. But for sure check the EBP sensor if it’s shorted you will lose the REF volts to the rest of the engine sensors.
The fuel inertia switch may just need to be reset but if you have 60psi KOEO that suggests the fuel pumps working.
Another day on the 6.0. Removed FICM and checked for bent wires and found nothing and re-installed. Bonding strap--I'm guessing you mean the ground wire under the blower? The wire is torn right at the bolt in back of the head so will need to solder it up and reinstall. Removed the EBP, cleaned and ran wire thru pipe but wasn't plugged or dirty. Hooked up the air cleaner cable that was just laying there. Pulled the cables off the drivers side fender part and reinstalled. Not sure what that silver part is where the three cables plug in. Anyway, cleared all codes and did a scan and only a few codes came up. Thought it was fixed, but cleared codes again and scanned again and the FICM codes for 1,4,6 and 7 injectors came up again. A lot of the codes were gone from earlier scans though. I'm concerned about the IC codes. U2023-20, B1352-20, U1900-20, and B1360-20. Could one of these be the ignition switch? Also on the last scan--key on and not running my dtc's for the OBD@ came up as Po262-P and Po 271-P. What is the P? Anyway--Any new ideas? Wife say's I owe you a case of beer--ha
Well I left town and don't have my workshop DVD which by the way is something you should look into. I found mine on eBay for like $15 and use it often for codes, torque values, and how to's. the p-codes are usually engine the IC are instrument cluster and the b-is ignition.
If the codes came back for the ficm it could need work. There are two sides to the ficm one for power and the other logic which controls the injection cycles.
We need to get this thread moved to the 6.0 forum because there's a lot smarter guys in there than me and could have you running in no time. You could start a thread there and copy and paste the link so they can read it and advise.
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