Usually when it fails a bubble test you start pulling the glow plugs one at a time until the bubbles stop that will tell you which injector is bad.
But if you have the cash I would just change them all on what ever side you found the issue with that way you know they are done and it will run that much better.

 

Got my injectors out today and want to post pics if I can figure this out. Also I notice on the injectors that there is a white substance on each of the lower 0 rings. Injector 8 has some burned on oil by the bottom. I will display injectors in order here. Is there any way of testing these out of truck? Also notice rust between the 0 rings. Please let me know what you might see in these pics? Thanks. Pics are injectors 2,4,6, and 8.

 

If u have the 10mm stand pipes... Replace them. As for the injectors... It's up to you. Be sure you get motorcraft tho.

I wouldn't worry about the white stuff.... Just clean the injector cup with a real brass brush (most are bras coated steel) or an old toothbrush or something. Coat the orings in oil and you are good.

 

Bottom o ring is white in color when new. Rust color shouldnt be there, its most likely caused by cheap filters (cheap filters don't have the water wicking mesh on the lower water separator filter). Also two main reasons why 6.0 injector tips split: water, and low fuel pressure. clean and inspect each injector tip of the old injectors. (injector tip cracks are visible to the naked eye if you have good eye sight.) Hopefully a tip hasn't chunked off. As what Dark Star said, go with motorcraft injectors. cant go wrong with them. get the motorcraft 9t517 fuel pressure regulator kit also. and use your favorite fuel aditive/cetane booster /Anti Gel. change your filters often. 6 liters appreciate tender loving care. And also some one else said to replace all injectors, I also agree with that. All 8 injectors have been subjected to the same abuse.

 

Ordered new stand pipes and dummy plugs. Also ordered 8 injector re-ring kits and an IPR socket so I can check that. I did find a bad brass or copper fitting on the bottom of injector #6. Guess that explains the bubbles. I see people soaking their injectors in oil prior to installing. I also saw a couple videos where people take apart the injectors and clean them inside. Don't see any cracks while cleaning them. Any other suggestions on cleaning or soaking the injectors in any solvents? Not sure if there is any plastic parts beside the top electrical, Thanks for your input

 

Cleaned these today and found no cracks, but #6 has a bad bottom copper/brass fitting so ordered 8 sets of these to do all injectors plus the 0 rings to go with them. Also ordered the ford blue spring kit. I only buy Ford Motorcraft parts but I bought the truck with 90K miles so don't know the history. Like I asked Dark Star--wondering if these can be soaked in anything if plastic tops aren't covered with the solution? Thanks for your input.

 

I wouldn’t soak the injectors in any solution. Also wouldn’t take them apart you’ll just be opening a can of worms. When I re-oringed my injectors I used a brass wire brush and just cleaned the nozzles off. You could soak the tips in maybe sea foam or penetrating oil. I also cleaned the spool valves but it is something that needs to be done with extreme care. There have been people that attempt cleaning the spool valves and end up with more problems and a set of new injectors.

When you ring the injectors use clean oil. Also clean the injector cups. Make sure you remove all the copper washers from the injectors and use a camera to double check the cups.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ed-for-it.html

 

x2... you can also clean the tips with 2000 grit fine sand paper.. just make sure the ports on the tip dont get clogged... if you decide to pull the spool valves make sure you keep the orientation correct... you can get them backwards... and as fizn stated... be very careful when doing so... especially when tightening the bolt that holds the spool valves magnets in place.. it is VERY easy to snap it.. and if its too tight then it can prevent the valve from cycling properly..

 

Gonna clean the spool valves also. Guess this is what is called stiction. Seems like a good idea. I ordered 8 re-ring kits (Motorcraft) but cancelled them when I found out that the o ring that goes into the top of the injector isn't included in each kit. I see Alliance has this o ring included and the ring can be changed without disassembly. Haven't ordered the Alliance kits yet. Thought i'd see what you guys say about their product. I'd re-order the Motorcraft kits again if I could find the part number for just the o ring that goes in the top of the injectors. Anyone know this part number? Thanks

 

Like I told FIZN, I will clean the spool valves also. Doesn't seem too difficult but takes some concentration. Found the sandpaper and did some cleaning. Even with a magnifying glass I can barely see the holes in the bottom of the injector. Need a brighter light--ha.

 

When I had a failed injector I decide to clean the spool valves on the remaining sticks but really saw no difference in performance when I was done. Was my stiction not that bad to notice any difference who knows. However if your going to do them the only advice I can give is to leave an injector untouched as in don’t remove the spool valve. You will need to “feel” the torque setting on the spool bolt between the old injector and the one being reinstalled.

He’s a picture of the parts I used when the time came.

 

I do not advise taking the injectors apart. Iirc Ford addressed the stiction issue by a redesign of the internals. Be sure you locate the brass washer for each injector and replace it.

I just brushed the tips when I resealed mine... No soaking was needed.

My thinking is that if the injectors is bad enough to warrant cleaning the spool valve, it would be a temporary fix at best, and you will end up replacing it anyway.

Richard

 

Great pics! One guy on this thread mentioned that I might have stiction and another guy said that stiction does not create a no-start situation. I guess if I don't do the valves and something is wrong i'll wonder if I should have did something. Guess i'll just do the valves to satisfy my curiosity. Found the little holes where the fuel comes out. Doesn't look like a pin can even fit in there for cleaning. Also checked my rail and there is no movement at all with the nipples so do not need to mess with that. Thanks again.

 

I'm still thinking about doing the spool valves. It doesn't look complicated except for the correct torque when putting back together. If the bolt were to break I guess it would mean a new injector. I will be changing the rings and brass washer for sure. Thanks again.

 

Stiction is usually NOT associated with a no start. It occurs at first cold start when the oil is thicker. It truck will run rough and lack a little on power but goes away after it starts to warm up.
The spool bolt torque is the “feel” torque I was talking about. When loosening the nut you will feel like it will break but then it will snap so to speak then the nut will come loose. The nut is like a crush nut don’t know if they crush it when the torque value is achieved or before. I spun the old injector bolt and tried to get the same spin resistance.

Did you read the link I posted a few posts back?