6.0 fuel issue
FTE Legend
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 80,535
Likes: 97
From: Norlina NC
I'm still thinking about doing the spool valves. It doesn't look complicated except for the correct torque when putting back together. If the bolt were to break I guess it would mean a new injector. I will be changing the rings and brass washer for sure. Thanks again.
again make sure that if you pull the valve that it goes back in the same direction it comes out... there is a right and a wrong orientation for it.
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2009
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6.0 fuel delivery
Stiction can be more thought of like a sticky valve when the systems all cold.. it wont really cause it to not start but will cause it to run rough until everything warms up..
again make sure that if you pull the valve that it goes back in the same direction it comes out... there is a right and a wrong orientation for it.
again make sure that if you pull the valve that it goes back in the same direction it comes out... there is a right and a wrong orientation for it.
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2009
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6.0 fuel delivery
Speakerfritz--not sure how to do that???
FTE Legend
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 80,535
Likes: 97
From: Norlina NC
Sparky83---I'm looking at my injector sleeves and am wondering if they are OK. I see some rust surfaces in 4 and 6. How bad can these sleeves get before they need to be exchanged? I need to buy a better flashlight to get better pics of these. Too bad they don't have incandescent light bulbs anymore as it is difficult to see with a drop light with the newer style light bulbs. I will post these pics later. I guess they want to move my thread to another site. Not sure if they do it or I have to request this. Thanks again.
if its just light surface rust, a wire bore brush similar to a battery terminal cleaner could take care of it.. just make sure to really clean the dust out before seating the injector back in.. if its heavy you may need to have them replaced..
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Junior User
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if your referring to the seat cups at the bottom of the heads, they shouldnt be rusting at all... if your seeing rust there it means your getting water down in there somehow.. most likely a coolant leak... but sometimes if theres enough water in the fuel itll cause it to when its blown back through via the poor copper crush seal at the tips of the injectors.. either scenario is not very good.. sloppy mechanics could have left the engine open for a long period of time allowing rain to get in there.. but would be hard to tell if that was a cause or not..
if its just light surface rust, a wire bore brush similar to a battery terminal cleaner could take care of it.. just make sure to really clean the dust out before seating the injector back in.. if its heavy you may need to have them replaced..
if its just light surface rust, a wire bore brush similar to a battery terminal cleaner could take care of it.. just make sure to really clean the dust out before seating the injector back in.. if its heavy you may need to have them replaced..
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2009
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I received my o ring kits from Alliant today and am ready to install these parts on my 6.0 injectors. Question--the copper ring that goes on the bottom has different protrusions on each side. One side has a protrusion in the center and the other side has a protrusion around the perimeter. Which side slides onto the injector first? Hope someone knows this because I couldn't find a video that shows this clearly. Thanks
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,468
Likes: 5
From: Salt Lake City, utah
It doesnt matter which way it goes but if I remember the protrusion around the perimeter went towards the cup. When I had a new injector from ford that’s the way they had it.
Remember when you torque the injectors (26 ftlbs) remove all the oil from the bolt hole in the head otherwise you won’t get an accurate value. Lube the orings with clean oil and install. Before you install the oil rail pour clean oil into the top of the injectors so the top oring doesn’t get cut. Install the rail as evenly as possible to avoid cutting the orings it will kind of snap in place.
Remember when you torque the injectors (26 ftlbs) remove all the oil from the bolt hole in the head otherwise you won’t get an accurate value. Lube the orings with clean oil and install. Before you install the oil rail pour clean oil into the top of the injectors so the top oring doesn’t get cut. Install the rail as evenly as possible to avoid cutting the orings it will kind of snap in place.
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Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
6.0 fuel delivery
It doesnt matter which way it goes but if I remember the protrusion around the perimeter went towards the cup. When I had a new injector from ford that’s the way they had it.
Remember when you torque the injectors (26 ftlbs) remove all the oil from the bolt hole in the head otherwise you won’t get an accurate value. Lube the orings with clean oil and install. Before you install the oil rail pour clean oil into the top of the injectors so the top oring doesn’t get cut. Install the rail as evenly as possible to avoid cutting the orings it will kind of snap in place.
Remember when you torque the injectors (26 ftlbs) remove all the oil from the bolt hole in the head otherwise you won’t get an accurate value. Lube the orings with clean oil and install. Before you install the oil rail pour clean oil into the top of the injectors so the top oring doesn’t get cut. Install the rail as evenly as possible to avoid cutting the orings it will kind of snap in place.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,468
Likes: 5
From: Salt Lake City, utah
Yes pour oil or use a syringe where the top oring goes it doesn’t take much just helps slide the rail home without damage to the rings. Be certain when the top orings are changed they are fully seated in the groove and the snap ring is on top. With the install use a blunt plastic pick or small water color brush handle.
If I haven’t said it enough DONT KNICK AN ORING or you’ll be doing it again.
If I haven’t said it enough DONT KNICK AN ORING or you’ll be doing it again.
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2009
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6.0 fuel delivery
Yes pour oil or use a syringe where the top oring goes it doesn’t take much just helps slide the rail home without damage to the rings. Be certain when the top orings are changed they are fully seated in the groove and the snap ring is on top. With the install use a blunt plastic pick or small water color brush handle.
If I haven’t said it enough DONT KNICK AN ORING or you’ll be doing it again.
If I haven’t said it enough DONT KNICK AN ORING or you’ll be doing it again.
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,468
Likes: 5
From: Salt Lake City, utah
Use a small torx bit about an inch long and use either a 1/4" end wrench or a 1/4" ratchet wrench just keep it straight and make sure the bit is fully inserted into the bolt. As for the standpipe you can leave it until the rail comes off then use a needle nose and wiggle. When you put the new standpipe back in it's easier to split it apart and insert the long end in then put it back together again then torque it. I'll post pics of what I use when I get home
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Junior User
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6.0 fuel
Use a small torx bit about an inch long and use either a 1/4" end wrench or a 1/4" ratchet wrench just keep it straight and make sure the bit is fully inserted into the bolt. As for the standpipe you can leave it until the rail comes off then use a needle nose and wiggle. When you put the new standpipe back in it's easier to split it apart and insert the long end in then put it back together again then torque it. I'll post pics of what I use when I get home
OK--I got the 1/4" ratchet wrench and duct taped the torx to it and got the last two bolts out of the oil rail. A lot easier than removing the fan box. Thanks for that. Another weird thing. The injectors on the passenger side have different nuts for the spool valve than the driver side did. There are three injectors without any writing on them but injector number 1 has writing on it. I'll include pics to see if anyone knows if these were replaced with after market injectors. The injectors on the drivers side had a single style nut on the spool valve bolt and the passenger side has a one piece double nut configuration with a washer attached. Also, to remove my stand pipe I had to place a crow bar on the wrench and hit it with a hammer to loosen it. The stand pipe did come apart and am wondering if this is why I have bubbles on the bubble test. Hope someone can tell me if I have aftermarket injectors and why only one of the injectors has writing on it. Thanks again. Pics to follow.
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Junior User
Joined: Sep 2009
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finished re-ringing the passenger side injectors and installed new dummy plug and stand pipe. Still wont start. No bubbles now on the bubble test. Cycled the key 6 times. Fuel pressure jumps right to 60. Thinking something electrical is going on. Smoke coming out of exhaust while turning over. All gauge readings are correct as before I started this project. I have a large ground wire that has been cut. It is attached to the fire wall as shown in pic. This is right above the heater blower on passenger side. Anyone else out there have this cable and where does it go? Have lots of squirrels around here and am finding sunflower seeds on top of engine. Hope someone can help me out here. Thanks
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,468
Likes: 5
From: Salt Lake City, utah
That wire is the ground strap it goes to the block on the ps rear of the head. Pull the ficm relay while you are cranking the engine over. It's going to take quite a bit of cranking for the oil pressure to come up. You drained both oil rails and the injectors so it's needs to fill everything with oil again and build pressure. Watch your ICP pressure and once it hits 500 put the relay back in and it should fire. Keep the batteries on a charger while cranking.