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Yesterday I went to get my plow out of storage to do some maintenance on it before winter gets here. On the way home the truck was seeing temps of 235*f - 243*f. My fan never locked up, as I never heard the tell-tale roaring and my temps never came down. I had to stop several times to let it cool down and babied it the rest of the way. The fan clutch is a Hayden that I installed when I did the headgaskets and studs 2 years ago. The original had no resistance and just free-spun when you pushed it. The new one has good resistance, and it climbs in speed with rpm's. I was not monitoring the fss at the time so I don't know what the actual speed was when it was that hot. My question is... is there a way to test the fan clutch and force it to lock up? I was thinking of grounding the circuit from what I read while searching, but couldn't find which wire to temporarily ground. (I don't have any computer programs to do this with).
Any help or thoughts are appreciated. (My truck is in my sig).
Yesterday I went to get my plow out of storage to do some maintenance on it before winter gets here. On the way home the truck was seeing temps of 235*f - 243*f. My fan never locked up, as I never heard the tell-tale roaring and my temps never came down. I had to stop several times to let it cool down and babied it the rest of the way. The fan clutch is a Hayden that I installed when I did the headgaskets and studs 2 years ago. The original had no resistance and just free-spun when you pushed it. The new one has good resistance, and it climbs in speed with rpm's. I was not monitoring the fss at the time so I don't know what the actual speed was when it was that hot. My question is... is there a way to test the fan clutch and force it to lock up? I was thinking of grounding the circuit from what I read while searching, but couldn't find which wire to temporarily ground. (I don't have any computer programs to do this with).
Any help or thoughts are appreciated. (My truck is in my sig).
Testing the fan came up in another thread and I believe it was TexasTech that made the suggestion you could block off airflow to the radiator with cardboard and monitor FSS, and even at idle you should get lock-up. I think even turning on the AC you should see a bump in FSS...
Just what I remember from another discussion - I don't know much about fan operation myself...
Thanks for the reply Dan. I'll give it a shot and see what happens. I think the fault may be somewhere other than the fan clutch, that's the reason I want to test it so I can try and pinpoint the real issue.
Ok, got it up to 230* with cardboard in front of the grill, on high idle. Fan never went faster than 486 monitoring fss on the scangauge. High idle was 1200 rpm. Anyone know which color wire at the fan clutch connector to ground out to force it to lock up so I can eliminate that as the failure?
Ground the blue wire on the fan plug side only. takes a few mins before locks 100%
^^^ Exactly. I've mentioned this before in multiple threads.
To understand, the blue wire is the COMMAND from the PCM that is PULSED in a frequency to control fan speed. The longer duration and higher frequency of the pulse increases fan speed RPM.
By grounding it out you're giving it a 100% duty cycle, max fan rpm @ that specific engine rpm.
The name for it is PWM Pulse Width Modulation.
Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) is a fancy term for describing a type of
digital signal. Pulse width modulation is used in a variety of applications
including sophisticated control circuitry. A common way we use them
here at SparkFun is to control dimming of RGB LEDs or to control the
direction of a servo motor.
It's how a digital controller deals with an analog device like the Fan Clutch
or the IPR.
Did you check the fan clutch wiring to make sure that it had not eaten it's self?
You want pin #4 Dark Blue and ground on the fan side of the connector.
You will see 12VDC if you stick a meter probe in there with the power on and
the connector connected. I would check to see that it is getting voltage first.
After that just make up a wire to sneak in the back side of the connector and
ground it. BTW it won't hurt the PCM. It might make it upset and toss out a
code but that is all.
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