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Toreador - thanks so much for the reply, lots of things I haven't tried yet.
I learned a few things today. The CC, which is the truck with the exhaust leak, also has the hubs locked in, and it is getting great mileage. I said 18+ originally, DH says it's 20+!? Maybe he's using British gallons again.
My Excursion (poor mileage) does not have the hubs locked in, and no exhaust leak that I know of. I'd be surprised if the manifold was cleaned - I will check the MAP nipple. And tomorrow I'll see if I can learn anything about the brakes. I think they might be the biggest issue with fuel economy. They were seizing up on us when we first bought it, and then DH changed the rotors, calipers and pads. He's pretty sure he used high-temp anti-seize on the pins when the calipers were new, and again when they started grabbing again, but we will have to dig into those to find out for sure whether they are the problem or not.
With the air filter, is the filter minder a good indication of it's function? Or how do you know it needs to be changed?
I tried to find out what PCM strategy I'm running (haven't bought the SCT yet), but my mechanic says his Snap-On software doesn't read it. Do you know if a Bully Dog would read it? I know someone with one of those. I do know my mechanic was surprised that the CEL came of after the EGR delete - would that indicate a later strategy? (Build date is Sept 11 '04)
Thanks for the vote of confidence re. the L-N alternator. After a conversation with Ed at FICMrepair I learned there are all sorts of things I didn't know I needed. I think my plan is to get the alternator, wiring and belt, along with upgrading my transmission solenoids since I want to switch to the '08 pan anyway. We do haul some heavy loads on occasion, this seems like reasonably priced transmission insurance.
When the filterminder tells you it time then the filter is REALLY bad.
The Snap On will tell you if you know where to look. Have him look in
the OBD2 test section. I can't recall just where it is right now and if
I have time tomorrow I will drag the Modis out and see if I can find it.
The last time I pulled strategy ver out I was using the old red brick
MT2500. But it can be read with the Snap On.
The Snap On will tell you if you know where to look. Have him look in
the OBD2 test section. I can't recall just where it is right now and if
I have time tomorrow I will drag the Modis out and see if I can find it.
The last time I pulled strategy ver out I was using the old red brick
MT2500. But it can be read with the Snap On.
This is sounding very familiar, I think you've told me this before. I need to keep a list of stuff to ask him when I'm over there.
I just remembered something: There is a member here who put a late model front end on his Ex. One of the questions he asked was on his Ex. where the air horn (intake) off the filter went, it dead headed into a solid flap.
It made me go out and look at mine and on the F series, there is a hole in the flap for the air horn to go through - turns out mine wasn't all the way through so part of the intake was blocked (a good find).
Bottom line is he removed the whole thing that was blocking the air inlet -- I think it was a flap on the Ex, but not sure - in any case it was impeding the flow of air into the filter. IIRC he said the truck felt stronger after taking it off.
Go take a look at yours and see if anything is in the way of your air filter inlet...
With the air filter, is the filter minder a good indication of it's function? Or how do you know it needs to be changed?
I tried to find out what PCM strategy I'm running (haven't bought the SCT yet), but my mechanic says his Snap-On software doesn't read it. Do you know if a Bully Dog would read it? I know someone with one of those. I do know my mechanic was surprised that the CEL came of after the EGR delete - would that indicate a later strategy? (Build date is Sept 11 '04)
Thanks for the vote of confidence re. the L-N alternator. After a conversation with Ed at FICMrepair I learned there are all sorts of things I didn't know I needed. I think my plan is to get the alternator, wiring and belt, along with upgrading my transmission solenoids since I want to switch to the '08 pan anyway. We do haul some heavy loads on occasion, this seems like reasonably priced transmission insurance.
Glad I could help!
Since your build date is September 2004, you have a 2004 engine and your strategy should start with VXBCXXX. If the light came on, you do indeed have a later strategy. I'm running a VXBC3 strategy and it doesn't miss the EGR at all. I've driven it a few thousand miles and still no light.
Keep in mind, while there were some good ones there were some very crappy versions of the latest strategy that some people fell victim to. Post back what you have and I'll advise.
I just remembered something: There is a member here who put a late model front end on his Ex. One of the questions he asked was on his Ex. where the air horn (intake) off the filter went, it dead headed into a solid flap.
Go take a look at yours and see if anything is in the way of your air filter inlet...
Scott
Holy moly! That's exactly what mine is like! Someone cut a few holes to let more air through, but the intake opens directly into a blind corner.
Not sure how to post pics from my phone and the kids have the computer tied up.
Depending on who did the engine work, they may or may not have taken the time to clean the intake manifold. It's very time consuming and few go the extra mile to clean it. What I'm driving at is that the MAP nipple on the intake manifold may be clogged. You can easily clear this with a wire hanger or straw from a WD-40 can. DO NOT SPRAY ANYTHING INTO THE INTAKE MANIFOLD. Once this is verified clear, you should notice an improvement in fuel economy and power.
I watched a video on this, since I keep reading about it but really had no idea where it was in real life. Is this what I'm wanting to clean, circled in red? It looks different from what I saw in the video - this hose is heavier. And if there's anything in there, it just gets pushed into the manifold?
Also, the piece I've circled in blue, what is that? I initially thought it was something that should be plugged in, but then wondered if it's a sensor that's supposed to be loose?
Last edited by lanneinbc; Oct 25, 2017 at 05:27 PM.
Reason: correction
Take the heavy hose off at both ends and check it for obstructions.
On the manifold side there is a brass nipple that you can unscrew
and clean off the truck.
The thing Scott is telling you to plug that line into is the heater control valve.
The system will apply vacuum to that line when the demand for FULL A/C is
on so you don't have heat being added to the air. It shuts off the heater core flow.
Take the heavy hose off at both ends and check it for obstructions.
On the manifold side there is a brass nipple that you can unscrew
and clean off the truck.
The thing Scott is telling you to plug that line into is the heater control valve.
The system will apply vacuum to that line when the demand for FULL A/C is
on so you don't have heat being added to the air. It shuts off the heater core flow.
Those are exactly the kind of details I need, being totally out of my element with almost all of this. Thanks! Starting to get dark now so I think this will now be a tomorrow project.
Ok, I just now got a chance to read through this, and maybe mine is set up how it's supposed to be? There were plenty of insects that found their way through somehow.
Guess I missed the custom AFE air filter set-up in the discription somewhere...
But now we know a way to increase your mileage
Let the engine have some air - that is one dang clogged filter!
Yeah, it was news to me, too. Apparently DH knew about it, and told me about it, but it must have been before I had any idea what the implications were. He was pretty surprised at how dirty it had gotten since the last time he checked it.
Looks to me like someone found a way to put it in backwards
That definitely would explain why your fuel economy is in the tank. Clean out that intake tube and clean your MAF, you should have a happier truck then.
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