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Hopefully someone will chime in. I can't remember the way to tell which hole count on the front of the case on which amp alternator it is. Something like a four hole is 130 amp. And the other is 95. I had the issue of my stock v belt pulley hit the case when I tighten it down. I read the shim it out. I had my boss turn the back side of the pulley down 50 thousands. So I didn't have to put a shim in. Works great
In the tech pages on this site is a list of donor cars for the 3g. It tells what cars to buy a alternator from. And what years. That is how I found mine. I got mine from a 95 mercury cougar. Those pages also give alot of other useful information. That's how I found what electric fan to get off different cars. And how to wire the Volvo relay to power it
That is a 130 amp alternator. You can tell b/c it has the two holes, not four, between the stripes(ridges) on the front of the case.
You can 'clock it' and turn the rear of the case, separate from the mounting flange, by undoing the three screws seen around the front of the case. Undo them, turn the rear of the case so the wires are where you want them (not sticking up in plain sight), and then but the screws back in. Don't pull it apart; just turn the rear of the case.
That white plastic piece with the connections is the v. regulator/ brushes unit. You can get a new one on RockAuto for about $10. There is a great vid on youtube that shows how to rebuild one correctly, so you don't have to buy one rebuild in the 3rd world, should the need arise. If your used alt goes out, a rebuilt will run you around $180! Rebuilt! That's why I know about the youtube vid. Good luck.
Oh, and if you're installing on a v belt set up, use a pulley with double belts, and run two belts. Mine squealed badly with a single belt. On some pulleys you may need a thin washer behind the pulley to keep it from scraping on the case.
Do yourself a favor and replace all the starter and ground cables to frame and firewall too, coupled with a fresh alternator them'll be some right happy electrons.
Did you measure the spacing between the mounting holes? I needed a 8.25" which I did find but all but the one I pulled were 7". For some reason I thought only 8.25" were 130's.
Do yourself a favor and replace all the starter and ground cables to frame and firewall too, coupled with a fresh alternator them'll be some right happy electrons.
Yes! Good point. I second the above. I also ran a separate ground from case to chassis. Clean, clean, clean, the grounds! Have alt tested b/4 install.
It is the right one so long as you are mounting it in a v8 application. All the Sixes required the extended tabs. 130A was avail in both configurations and like others have said, 2 holes = 130 amp.
Did you measure the spacing between the mounting holes? I needed a 8.25" which I did find but all but the one I pulled were 7". For some reason I thought only 8.25" were 130's.
that's the part I wasn't understanding I guess. 8.25 inches between mounting ear holes. The one I got appears to be 7 inches but it matches the one coming off my truck.
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