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Changed my plugs with 50, 000 on truck,( 99- I hear you about the pain behind the legs) I just bought the packets the parts place had there that looks like NS, and I have had no problems with mine, although I torqued by feel. Same on wifes 24v Taurus same stuff and no problems, also torqued by feel.
Always: dielectric grease on the plug boots, antiseize on the plug threads, plus a a cool beveage or two for the installer. Works every time. I also torque by feel, it is easy to over tighten plugs. Main point of this post is this: In no event would i ever install new plugs without antiseize on the plug threads. As a simple tip, doesnt hurt to pull the front tires and get the truck down low to the ground as it is much easier to reach the back cylinders.
A small dab of anti-seize on middle of threads only (it spreads) is no electrical threat, since it won't contaminate the spark plug electrodes, insulator or boot. I prefer anti-seize with lots of molybdenum disulfide, which I grew to love while working on jet engines. It is not a dielectric, nor a thermal barrier.
How about some linkage/data relating to anti-seize induced ignition malfunctions? This is interesting.
In jet engine practice (many KV, and happily arcs to ground if you don't do things right) we just do the threads and if it is properly applied have no problems.
In car, truck, and motorcycle use I have never induced a problem with anti-seize.
Last edited by monckywrench; Oct 7, 2003 at 08:15 PM.
I purchased my 1999 EB in September of 2002. On April 29th of this year the #3 plug popped out. The I was informed me that this was have been due to the fact that the cylinder head had 5 threads for the plug. This apparently turned out to be insuffcient with the amount of power that this engine produces. The new head has 8 threads and the holes are more of an oval shape as opposed to being round. This happened at 55,905k miles on the ticker. I took my Expy (affectionally named red bull by my Dad) to the dealership 0n May 2nd. It was released on May 20th. The cost (I hope that you are sitting) $3,061.83. I am calling on all FTE members that have experienced this to let this member know what they may be facing. I love my Expy, right now my wife is so spooked by this she wants me to trade it in for a 2002 or younger Expy, or a 2000 or younger Navi. I have owned an Explorer limited in the past. I will always have an Expy for as long as it is produced. Since then I have driven from Michigan to Georgia and back. Mich. to Missouri and back. Mich to Texas and back. Mich to Vermont and back. I love my truck. I don't want to trade it in. But, I may have to to have peace in my home. I know that the point of discussion on anti-sieze is important. Those of you that have had this happen need to chime in on this.
You guys are really spooking me about this plug pop-out thing on 5.4's. My 2000 Expy has about 75K miles and runs great. My plan was not to change the plugs until performance indicated, but am wondering if this plug pop-out potential is reason to go ahead and change them as a preventative measure. What's the best advice? Thanks.
Folks: What a contentious issue! I have used copper based antisieze (Felpro C5A) for 25 years on both iron and aluminum heads. I've never had any problems, ignition or anything else, with it. I was always taught to put just a little on the threads, avoid getting any on the electrodes, and tighten to the torque spec if you know it. And change them when the motor is cold, because I was told the aluminum threads can strip out if done hot. I'd like to know if the V10 has this problem, cause I know businesses in my town that have them, and never had a problem with plug pop out, and they really run them too (a lot of miles)?
Take a look at the post "5.4 spark plug popped out (Needs new head)" which was submitted on 10-5-2003 and take a look at the difference in the plugs. Trust me, have someone knowledgeable tell you if you have the corrected head or the one that is flawed. It is my opinion that the design of the part itself along with other factors is what causes this to occur.
Old Farmer - I haven't heard anything about this with the V10's.
The Haynes manual says to use anti-seize on all the configurations, BUT NOT ON THE 4..6,5.4 engines. Ford says to not use antiseize on the 5.4 engine. Antiseize will greatly affect the torque.
I'm am a firm believer in using anti-seize, I just used it on the plugs in my wifes car, but the the modular engines with 3 turns to the plugs is a special situation. Don't always believe what other tell you that are not correctly informed about a situation.
In addition if you use antiseize and have a warranty, it could be invalid. My .02.
Look at my prevoius post concerning haynes manuals...
They say to use it and I gave the book and page.
100 lbs in isn't gonna hurt anything anti seize or not.
Also the app is for the 5.4.
Originally posted by 99f350sd Look at my prevoius post concerning haynes manuals...
They say to use it and I gave the book and page.
100 lbs in isn't gonna hurt anything anti seize or not.
Also the app is for the 5.4.
I'm sorry, I was quoting out of the Chilton (for it's worth) manual.
I still believe in using anti-seize, I use it everywhere, but for some reason Ford is adimate about not using it on the short threaded modular engines. I talked to a Ford tech on one of the forums and he agrees not to use it. I wish I had more info on why they don't. GM posted a report to lower the torque 40% (thats a lot) when using anti-seize on aluminum heads. It's such a risk changing these plugs I want to know for sure. Will it void your warranty if you blow a plug and it has anti-seize on it? I also read somewhere that plugs used in aluminum heads are precoated.
As a side note, I used anti-seize on the drain and refil plugs on my transfer case. I thought I overtightened them and was worried that the next time I remove them they will strip. I couldn't finda torque value. Anyway when I removed them the next time they were very loose. Sorry to ramble on...
Take a look at the post "5.4 spark plug popped out (Needs new head)" which was submitted on 10-5-2003 and take a look at the difference in the plugs. Trust me, have someone knowledgeable tell you if you have the corrected head or the one that is flawed. It is my opinion that the design of the part itself along with other factors is what causes this to occur.
Old Farmer - I haven't heard anything about this with the V10's.
LogicBig
Which plug is correct to use. The differences between the plugs is the number of threads. The Z-tech has about twice the threads. Wouldn't that go to deep into the head. The straight section is the same. Or are you saying use the Z-tech (left) on new heads and Triton plug (right) on bad heads.
I would only use the ford plugs. My 99 has the small amount of threads. I used the ford plugs which don't have threads all the way up. using the other kind of plug with more threads wouldn't have mattered cause the head only has 1/2 the threads of the plug..
I asked this on the other thread about spark plugs popping out and I want to make sure someone sees it so sorry if you have already read it. It this spark plug problem specific to older Triton engines or is it common? I've looked on the site and the newest I've seen with this problem is a '99 or maybe a '00. Also didn't Ford re-design the heads on the 5.4's for '01 when the hp was upped?