Programmer/Tuner install
Don't do it.
You can crank it all the way up until you blow a hole in the side of the motor, pop your head gaskets, or break a connecting rod. Delete if you want, but keep the tune stock or mild. See video below for reference.
So before the sky falls, you should read up on what it actually takes to knock a 6.7 down. The '11s had turbo and valve issues that were mostly resolved by the '12s and the '13s are even stronger. As always, the tuning has progressed with the experience of what damage can be done. Unless there is a pre-existing problem, you cannot window the block, blow head gaskets or break rods on a 6.7 when using the hottest tunes by the best known tuners out there coupled with the highest flowing intake. The fuel system and turbo just can't deliver more than ~540 HP (580 on '15-'17) and it takes close to 700 to really damage the bottom end. The reality is that if you tune it and beat on it, you have more risk of damaging the transmission. Call No Limit and ask them for options.
The bottom ends of the 6.7 are weaker than previous PSDs, but with the limited air and fuel on the 11-14s, its takes some really bad tuning and a really stupid operator to hurt the engine. 480-500 is about all the 11-14 trucks are gonna push.
The turbos don't like to be spun up. Anything over 30psi is asking for trouble. They are a weak point on tuned 11-14 trucks. The transmissions are very strong on the 11-14 trucks. Wouldn't really worry about it if you are running good trans tuning. Have a buddy running a stock 6R putting down 700HP. Been doing this for the last 30-40k miles with a ton of track passes and dyno runs. Truck is at 100k miles and still going. He has a fully built bottom end with upgraded HPFP and turbo. Trans just won't die.
I say tune it and be happy
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