When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Not meaning to split hairs, but technically the disagreement won't be with me, I'm just relating the facts. The science behind it isn't my finding, and the conclusion by the companies that make and sell the OAT ELC that it can safely mix with the older traditional "Green" coolant isn't my assertion.
Does any one know why VC7 "gold coolant" is recommended for '02-'05 Ex and '00-'01 Ex get the green coolant VC5.
Because 2002 Model Year vehicles was where the changeover occurred.
What changed between the the Ex's that would require a change in coolant?
Nothing with the Ex changed, better coolant was just used.
Why isn't VC7 backwards engineered/approved for '00-'01 Ex's like Mercon V was for their transmissions?
You can safely use the "Gold" in the older MY rigs, based on the decades of use people have been using the Ford "Gold" or the Zerex G-05 equivalent in the older MY rigs that Ford says to use the "Green" in. I know, anecdotal proof isn't scientific proof, but it is what it is.
I am confused about what kind of coolant to use in my 2000 v10. Most posts I found were really old. RockAuto has the Motorcraft VC5 listed as the correct coolant '00-'01, but I had read that Motorcraft Gold VC7 was correct. I'm not sure what to use since the info in my owners manual is outdated by 17 years.
Just for info overload, consider that Ford has never recommended a heavy duty OAT based extended life coolant for the 7.3L diesel. They still don't, even though that's the best, proper coolant to use for the Late 1999 MY trucks and newer, and what most of us diesel owner upgrade to. Early 1999 MY trucks should NOT use the OAT ELC though.
Not meaning to split hairs, but technically the disagreement won't be with me, I'm just relating the facts. The science behind it isn't my finding, and the conclusion by the companies that make and sell the OAT ELC that it can safely mix with the older traditional "Green" coolant isn't my assertion.
Stewart
I think you are referring to the Hybric ELC coolants and they are not straight OAT which is a big difference. I was referring to straight OAT, like Dexcool and other formulations based on it. Most hybrid coolants are more forgiving, but a straight OAT coolant is not.
I think you are referring to the Hybric ELC coolants and they are not straight OAT which is a big difference.
Yes, I know they are different, and I was not talking about a Hybrid-OAT coolant. I was very specific in my response and was careful to choose the words "There is no danger...in mixing any Heavy Duty OAT based Extended Life Coolant with a traditional 'green' coolant," specifically so there wouldn't be any misunderstanding.
I was referring to straight OAT, like Dexcool and other formulations based on it.
DexCool is a GM specific coolant that is not like other Organic Acid Technology carboxylate-based coolants. DexCool is usually Orange in color and it has a different scientific formulation than the Heavy Duty OAT ELC's recommended for the 7.3L PSD and 6.0L PSD by International.
Most hybrid coolants are more forgiving, but a straight OAT coolant is not.
All H-OAT coolants of the same formulation as the Ford "Gold" and the Zerex G-05 are just as mixable with the traditional "Green" coolant as are any of the HD OAT ELC's meeting the CAT EC-1 spec, which are usually red in color.
DexCool can not only sludge up a Ford engine (which it is NOT supposed to be used in) but it can also sludge up the engine of a GM vehicle, even though it WAS made for specific GM vehicles. Lot's of info on that on the 'net.
DexCool is never to be used in a Ford vehicle and really, in my opinion, shouldn't even be mentioned because it would be like putting diesel fuel in the tank of a gas powered engine, or vice-versa. The are incompatible, completely, and it can confuse people.
Traditional "Green" coolant, H-OAT coolants, and HD OAT Extended Life Coolants meeting the CAT EC-1 spec are all compatible with each other.
I have been doing some research and found some info on other forums and I called the dealership to help me understand the "why" part of the coolant switch and my help out some one else too. Let me know what you all think. I'm putting quotation marks around the parts I have copied from other people.
"Antifreeze has traditionally been ethylene glycol (EG) with Inorganic Acid Technology (IAT) corrosion inhibitors added since 1926. (and closed - pressurized - systems were developed in 32-34).
American vehicles have traditionally been designed to use antifreeze with silicates and phosphates as corrosion inhibitors.
European vehicles have traditionally used antifreeze that does not use phosphates.
Japanese vehicles have traditionally used antifreeze that does not use silicates."
"Newer corrosion inhibitor technology includes Organic Acid Technology (OAT) and Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT). Both may be referred to as “extended life” antifreeze and were introduced in the 1990′s and use propylene glycol (PG)."
"IAT antifreeze has a 2 year or 30,000 mile service life, where OAT and HOAT have a 5 year or 150,000 mile service life.
OAT based antifreeze is not compatible with IAT antifreeze; although, some HOAT formulas claim compatibility with certain OAT formulas or IAT formulas.
OAT and HOAT antifreeze is designed for use in aluminum radiators and components. You should NEVER mix OAT based formulas (which includes hoat) with IAT formulas. The result is typically turning your coolant into sludge due to a chemical reaction. Keep in mind, OAT based formulas are still a developing technology. There are some “universal” formulas that claim compatibility with other IAT and OAT formulas, but the only safe bet is to use the same formula that is already in your vehicle. This may change as the OAT based formulas continue to develop; however, always err on the side of caution and use the same type of formula that the manufacturer recommends."
This is the part that helped me the most:
"If you were designing your own system the rules are REAL simple:
If you have a mix of cast iron, aluminum and ANY brass in the system (old school radiators) - do not use oat or hoat - use IAT (ethylene glycol). propylene glycol does not do well controlling electrolysis in a three metal environment (or even a two metal when one is brass)- and can actually speed up the process of molecular distribution. The organic additives actually help carry the brass molecules trying to swap places with the iron."
There is probably brass some where in the cooling system other than the thermostat on the '00-'01 V10 Excursions because a different Radiator model number is used for '00-'01 and '02-'05 model years. Other difference between the 2 radiators is the style of connector used for the transmission cooler lines.
"If you have an cast iron\aluminum system - never use IAT - use oat (hoat as second choice). This is where Dex-Cool was designed - for the cast block aluminum head GM engines.
If you have an all aluminum system - again no IAT - use HOAT (OAT as second choice).
Anything organic can be broken down. With Organics the additives becomes more sacrificial than the metal surfaces - that is they break down before they can piggy back the metallic molecules attempting to be transferred via electroysis. Mixing organic (PG) with inorganic (EG) - causes the organics to break down faster, fall from suspension at the molecular level AND the inorganics to attach to them. Sludge."
Let me know what you think and if I have anything incorrect that jumps out at you.