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I did a injector buzz test 1 threw 8 high to low open so i checked connection at idm with the gb procedure everything checked good with 3.3 to 3.4 ohms so i put in another idm i had first thing i did was run injector buz test no codes so i started it and it rns alot better now did a cct 1 and 7 came up so while running i uncliped injector # 1 absolutely no change same with # 7 nothing when i pulled the pigtail off of #5 (no codes just wanted to test) it had a changed like that injector was working so i shut the engine off run another buzz test and now high to low open came up on injector #1 #5 and #7 so i ohmed the harness again this time shaking it everyere wiggled the pigtail on the injector and vc and all that everything stayed at 3.3 to 3.4 test 2 and 3 did not show any Resistance
Sounds like you're doing it the right way. Pull off the connector at the valve cover and inspect for burnt pins. Try continuity from 42 pin connector to there, and give the harness a wiggle while doing it. All passenger side issues, as you know. Next I'd check the UVCH under the valve covers for the same, burnt pins due to separating connections.
Yup i did all that thats were im lost.... I was readimg that the idm can saves codes in it so maybe the codes from unplugging the injectors while it was running saved onto both of them the thing that stumps me the most is wouldnt they clean when unplugging the idm or batterys because it does not both the original idm and new one both will come up with both codes still
It is a good idea to ohm the complete harness including the ground pins from the IDM all the way to the injectors. Make sure you have the 42 pin & the uvch all hooked tightly together.
also make sure the pins on the IDM & connector are clean and not burnt.