Major electrical issues-please help!
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 680
Likes: 2
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Here is a recap of what I’ve done so far and whats to come to fix this issue:
1. Removed my DP Tuner chip from PCM to eliminate as an issue
2. Removed PCM(w/batts disconnected) and inspected. No burnt spots visible on circuit board, but the pin port did have some moisture residual moisture. Dried it and PCM connector with heat gun and reconnected.
3. Replaced CPS sensor
4. Unplugged EBPV sensor
5. Checks all fuses under the dash (replaced a few of the PCM/other important electronic circuit fuses just for good measure)
6. Swapped PCM and IDM relay
My next steps I plan to take are:
1. Remove the IDM(the plastic fender liner is a PIA to remove) and check for water. Does anyone know how to test the IDM?
2. Go ham with the heat gun(taking precaution to not melt anything of course) on all wiring, sensors, connections, etc.. and hope it dries everything out
3. Locate all sensors, unplug, inspect, test. Does anyone have a good guide or recommendations where to find all the appropriate sensors and how to test them? Maybe a diagram or pictures would be great and how much voltage should be setting at each with the key on.
Please chime in and throw some additional suggestions out here. I really appreciate any help provided on this.
1. Removed my DP Tuner chip from PCM to eliminate as an issue
2. Removed PCM(w/batts disconnected) and inspected. No burnt spots visible on circuit board, but the pin port did have some moisture residual moisture. Dried it and PCM connector with heat gun and reconnected.
3. Replaced CPS sensor
4. Unplugged EBPV sensor
5. Checks all fuses under the dash (replaced a few of the PCM/other important electronic circuit fuses just for good measure)
6. Swapped PCM and IDM relay
My next steps I plan to take are:
1. Remove the IDM(the plastic fender liner is a PIA to remove) and check for water. Does anyone know how to test the IDM?
2. Go ham with the heat gun(taking precaution to not melt anything of course) on all wiring, sensors, connections, etc.. and hope it dries everything out
3. Locate all sensors, unplug, inspect, test. Does anyone have a good guide or recommendations where to find all the appropriate sensors and how to test them? Maybe a diagram or pictures would be great and how much voltage should be setting at each with the key on.
Please chime in and throw some additional suggestions out here. I really appreciate any help provided on this.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,195
Likes: 6
From: Medford Oregon
On the sensors that uses VRef - 5 volts supplied by the PCM they are:
1. Accelerator peddle AP
2. Barro
3. MAP
4. CPS
5. EBPS
6. ICP
The BRN/WHT wire is the 5 volts. Locate one that is convenient and with key ON measure that wire. I usually use a sewing needle and just stick it through the wire. Use caution as this usually causes some blood lose with holes in the fingers. Also use battery ground for the negative lead on the voltmeter. If ~ 5 volts is present then this is not the issue and you can check sensors off the list.
1. Accelerator peddle AP
2. Barro
3. MAP
4. CPS
5. EBPS
6. ICP
The BRN/WHT wire is the 5 volts. Locate one that is convenient and with key ON measure that wire. I usually use a sewing needle and just stick it through the wire. Use caution as this usually causes some blood lose with holes in the fingers. Also use battery ground for the negative lead on the voltmeter. If ~ 5 volts is present then this is not the issue and you can check sensors off the list.
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 680
Likes: 2
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Update: Reinstalled IDM. The WTS light now goes off as it should. Trucks starts ands idles fine. However, now there is zero throttle response. My code reader also works and the following codes are now present:
P0713 - Trans Fluid Temp sensor A circuit high input
P0113 - Intake Air Temp Sensor 1 circuit high input
P0123 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor A circuit high input
Additionally, if I remove fuse #45(overdrive cancel switch on the shifter, 4X4 control module if you have 4X4, accelerator pedal, head light switch and instrument cluster) the door chime comes on as it should, but while the fuse is plugged in(which Iv'e swapped out for a new one) the door chimes disappears. I have no throttle response whether its installed or removed.
After doing some research, I'm gonna give a real good look to the steering column area and see if is something to do with a chaffed wire somewhere.
P0713 - Trans Fluid Temp sensor A circuit high input
P0113 - Intake Air Temp Sensor 1 circuit high input
P0123 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor A circuit high input
Additionally, if I remove fuse #45(overdrive cancel switch on the shifter, 4X4 control module if you have 4X4, accelerator pedal, head light switch and instrument cluster) the door chime comes on as it should, but while the fuse is plugged in(which Iv'e swapped out for a new one) the door chimes disappears. I have no throttle response whether its installed or removed.
After doing some research, I'm gonna give a real good look to the steering column area and see if is something to do with a chaffed wire somewhere.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,195
Likes: 6
From: Medford Oregon
The P0123 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor A circuit high input is your problem. It's a switch when pressing on the go peddle that you are actually telling the computer you want to go. In a quiet environment you can press on the peddle and hear the switch accurate. Just get down at the peddle area and you will see it, not uncommon on these rigs, especially in wet and muddy environments for the switch to bind.
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Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 680
Likes: 2
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
The P0123 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor A circuit high input is your problem. It's a switch when pressing on the go peddle that you are actually telling the computer you want to go. In a quiet environment you can press on the peddle and hear the switch accurate. Just get down at the peddle area and you will see it, not uncommon on these rigs, especially in wet and muddy environments for the switch to bind.
Ok. I will take a look tonight. thanks.
Thread Starter
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More Turbo
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 680
Likes: 2
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
The P0123 - Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor A circuit high input is your problem. It's a switch when pressing on the go peddle that you are actually telling the computer you want to go. In a quiet environment you can press on the peddle and hear the switch accurate. Just get down at the peddle area and you will see it, not uncommon on these rigs, especially in wet and muddy environments for the switch to bind.
So after removing the throttle assembly, everything looked clean(I have the adjustable pedal).
Gonna check the voltages according to this thread and see what I get.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-problems.html
any other ideas of what this could be? I hat the thought of having to buy a new PCM and not knowing if that's the issue. I would swap it with a known good one, but don't know anyone over here in Italy with a 7.3
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