Hello Everybody I'm new to the powerstroke world but I have been on this site for a few years reading and learning lots of things. Special thanks to all the awesome FTE members that bend over backwards to help other members with there issues and loan a hand to those starting off. So after 6months of looking I finally went for it and purchased a e99 f-250 superduty PSD Auto 275K MI off a guy on craigslist. Probably shouldnt have bought it but I fell in love at first sight and ignored all the issues I was seeing in the truck. The guy had told me it needed brakes, wheel seals and had some oil leaks but other than that was a good running truck. He had maintenance records including a fresh trans rebuild from amco. He said I couldn't drive it because the brakes were so bad. I told him no deal I must drive it he said ok but only around the block told him fine but I want to let the truck idle for as long as possible to make sure its not over heating. The guy gave me a good deal on it due to the repairs it needed so after signing a waiver and all the paper work. Drove away 20 Mi into my drive truck started chugging and SES light flashing on and off through the drive another 20 MI truck died had to pull over would not start. Towed it home scanned it with Car gauge Pro found codes for IDM, CPS, Wastegate. Ran buzz test had code P1668. So I started off doing all the work on brakes, oil leaks, changed CPS with OEM drk Blue and changed out UVCH both sides one side was burned up figured that was the issue with IDM code and the stalling changed IDM with used one from EBAy. Got truck running only to find out it would do the same thing it was doing on the drive home SES intermittently flash and truck die no restart with either IDM. Consistently getting code P0603 KAM P1316 P1668 or P1670 instead and eiter code for low boost or code for wastegate. Less frequently getting code for VSS, CPS or transmission oil temp. Checked wiring multiple times on PCM, IDM, inbetween, 42 pin connector on Driver side valve cover, cleaned all grounds, replaced batteries, battery terminals, idm relay, pcm relay. Still had same issues did not want to accept PCM is the issue. No problems came until I ran truck for 10-30 min but later at some point I punched PCM and truck died. SES light on could not connect to check codes no COMM. Long story short I think I figured it out. Pulled PCM out and took PCM out of plastic cover to find a gold superchips duct taped on. Shoot!!!!!!!!!!!!! I was told truck was all stock grrrrrrrrr. Opened PCM full of dirt no signs of corrosion but chip was very loose and 2 of the contacts where the chip connects to are gone down to the circuit board. So I think I found my problem. Sorry for the long post. But I have decided Im going to blow down the PCM free of all the dirt try starting the truck without the chip and see what happens. I would like to get a new PCM to run and keep my XLE4 as a back up if truck runs with it. I would also like advice on what PCM and tunes. My plan is to keep truck as stock as possible I want to keep it as long as possible as a DD for my 30 MI commute to work and from time to time take dirt to the local dump. So not going to be a powerhouse project but would like a tune for fuel econ and one for hauling. Don't know a thing about tunes or chips so thanks in advance for any advice.

 

You can always put more solder on the board and sand down it works good ive done this on car amps same concept and works great

 

Z31 Thanks for the Reply. I was thinking of adding solder to the board but I was afraid of putting too much heat to the board and messing something up. Gona try to run the truck a while with no chip and if no codes or issues pull PCM out again n try to solder the traces. Thanks and God bless you.

 

Just try to not put the solder iron directly on the board put some drops then pull the the solder with the iron as needed. and that part of the pcm is only for acces the info from the pcm

 

If you need to replace the PCM, look for a DPC 422 PMT1.

For more info on this, search this forum for DPC422 with my user name. You will find a couple of links with tons of info that was compiled and contributed by some of the most knowledgeable people on here.

I'd attach the links but cell service is horrible here currently.

Snagged it:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...e-for-e99.html

 

Z31 thanks again I'm going to try to start the truck today without the chip and see if it will run without issues.
Jhl3 thanks for that so looks like pmts are hard to find but I have seen a few nvks out there. Will keep looking into it.

 

i would dump the "chip" for now...seriously lets work on making the truck feel better and help it fight the flu...yes thats right it HAS the flu and I can bet its not liking it right now, so lets work to get your truck back to 100% health then once you got a good running truck that can run the 5k with out an issue we can get into chips mods and that stuff, the only think mod wise I would suggest AT ALL for starting this process is switching to the AIS intake (unless your running non stock injectors), just do a search using AIS and my user name, there should be a few good threads on it that I posted in also about it, ect. we definatly want to make sure your truck is breathing like it should, if you go under the hood take a look at the air box, do you see 4 "tabs"?? if so you got the poor design air box and it will be worth up grading that to the AIS (yes a bit of work may be needed but I am in the process of writing that up into my build thread for others to have here).

reasom for the upgrad, is due to the flaw in the 4 tabs (if you look at my picture you will see the 4 broken tab bits) as they break and that is due to the top lid bowing out if the incorrect thickness of filter (the gasket bit) is used.

EDIT: below is the "normal" air box, and the AIS box

NORMAL:




AIS: (top removed from AIS, behind battery)

 

Nice! make sure you put lots of pics we are all pic hoes

 

trust me there will be

 

Update just got home from a 1hour test drive around town truck ran great without the chip only thing I noticed is harder shifting. Scanned the truck and ran buzz test no codes except for EBPV that I deleted.
Jaime thanks for the advice on the air filter I should have mentioned I did a few mods to the truck while I was working on it I did a diy air filter the stock air box n filter was filthy! Almost threw up thinking my turbo would be toast but thank God turbo seemed good must have been changed out it didn't have play or much wear on the wheel. I also changed glow plugs, gpr stanctor style, new interstate batteries, new denso style starter, military style battery terminals, rebuilt fuel bowl had tons of leaks, removed fuel heater, EBPV delete, turbo pedistal o-rings, SS hpx, changed rear hpo galley plugs with updated ones, added coolant filter, changed all coolant hoses, 203* thermostat w/billet housing, coolant flush, rotella t-6 oil change, IPR rebuild, new Icp n pigtail, up pipe donuts, brakes, rotors, brake hoses, calipers, knuckle seals, front u joints, rear axle seals, shocks, complete poly urethane bushings, newer style tracking bar and new steering stabilizer. I'm sure I'm forgetting some stuff.
But I agree with you I'm going to drive this thing to work and get miles on it before I do anything else. Only thing I'm going to do now is install my alarm system don't need my truck to get stolen now that I got it running. Took me 4 months to get to this stage was working alot of OT at work didn't have time to work on my truck.
Future mods will be new pcm with pmt1 tunes or something different. And I wanted to get the swamps IDM but I ran out of money now. Have to wait.
Z31 gona try to upload a pic.

 

I had my truck shut off years back with that chip, just throw it away. It also messed my shifting up.

 

simple solution, get the Cyclops TAM, best hidden security system, I am going to get a few of them my self for my fleet...yes I know that you can have one that chirps, but I prefer the silence of a theft avoidance unit that just doesn't let the truck run...

 

Thanks for all your input truck has been running great after removing the gold chip.
Bonanza- throwing away the chip would be a waste. I'm going to bring it to the shooting range its going to feel great when I fire a round through it.
Jaime- Looked at the cyclops but I already had a remote start alarm I had in my last truck so I used that. Been into car audio and security for years now all my vehicles get remote start.
Jhl3- I purchased a PMT-2 pcm from E-Bay but it didn't work. I disconnected batteries swapped pcms and then reconnected batteries but no go. Scanned 15 codes reset them and they kept coming back. Glow plug light didn't come on and truck didn't start. I'm going to send it back.
Does anybody know if there is any programming that must be done when you swap pcms? From what I read of other guys that did pcm swaps on their e99s sounds like a straight forward swap. I figure I just got a bad pcm. Looked corroded on the outside. I cleaned the pins with a q-tip n contact cleaned a few of them had corrosion.

 

Those gold chips were the ****ake about 15 years ago......I still have one that works for your truck....it could be yours for the cost of $0. I wouldn't install it though if I were you.

Even though I already responded to your PM, sorry I didn't see this sooner, I felt that we should at least answer a question for the sake of any in the future that may have this issue.

For e99's, the DPC-422 PMT's and NVK's are a direct swap for the DPC-402 XLE4 and should start the truck and run as long as the flash information is correct and assuming that the PCM is not blank. If it is blank, you will have to have it flashed or install a tuner. DPTuner is more reasonable for the re-flash than FORD or anyone else that I have found. How well it runs depends upon whether you still have stock split shot injectors or if you or someone else has changed them to single shots. IF you have singles shots, Ford cannot help you, my local one wouldn't, and you'll have to get someone to flash the PCM or buy/install a tuner that has tunes that address the single shots.

Again, for the e99, if you don't get a WTS/glow plug light, the tach does not move and the fuel pump does not run, then you are reasonably safe to assume that the PCM is fried.

If you have gauges, additional signs are that you may not get ICP or IPRDC.

Check all PCM and IDM related fuses also.

Link to a thread that addresses this:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...sion-also.html

If I have left anything out or corrections need to be made, please feel free to address it/them.

 

I got my pcm from autozone took it out of the box plugged it in and no problems,is it possible to return the one you got from ebay and get the autozone,I believe it is a cardone,i have an e99 and went with DPC422(thanks agian jhl3)