injector cups stuck in head
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,821
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From: piedmont mo
injector cups stuck in head
well as title ses when removing two of the eight injector cups the bottom lowest portion stayed in the head and now I can't get them out any ideas would be great I'm at a loss besides replacing head which I really wasn't wanting to do right now
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,821
Likes: 238
From: piedmont mo
If I swap head with another one does it matter that this motor is a early 94.5 motor and has two less holes on the intake plenums and other motors I've got are later model heads
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: North East Ohio
Can't punch through from the other side, just the nozzle hole goes all the way through, no part of the sleeve to push on.
I have run into this before.
Very carefully take a proper size chisel and try to score the sleeve across, like at 12:00 and 6:00. VERY carefully. Did I mention to be VERY CAREFUL doing this? You don't want to knick the surface of the bore AT ALL. If you do the head is junk. Don't ask me how I know.
Then, use a propane torch to heat it up to break the bond with the retaining compound. With a long screw driver, long pliers, etc, or whatever works try and pry the pieces up so that the pliers will grab them. Like put the screw driver in the chiseled slot and twist and turn sort of thing.
If you happen to have any of the sides of the sleeves left, try to pry a section of it away from the side CAREFULLY, and using long pliers try to grab that part of the sleeve after heating, before using the chisel. You need to be VERY careful using the chisel. Not sure if I mentioned that.
There is no easy way to do it, it will suck no matter what. But it's worth a shot before replacing the head.
I have run into this before.
Very carefully take a proper size chisel and try to score the sleeve across, like at 12:00 and 6:00. VERY carefully. Did I mention to be VERY CAREFUL doing this? You don't want to knick the surface of the bore AT ALL. If you do the head is junk. Don't ask me how I know.
Then, use a propane torch to heat it up to break the bond with the retaining compound. With a long screw driver, long pliers, etc, or whatever works try and pry the pieces up so that the pliers will grab them. Like put the screw driver in the chiseled slot and twist and turn sort of thing.
If you happen to have any of the sides of the sleeves left, try to pry a section of it away from the side CAREFULLY, and using long pliers try to grab that part of the sleeve after heating, before using the chisel. You need to be VERY careful using the chisel. Not sure if I mentioned that.
There is no easy way to do it, it will suck no matter what. But it's worth a shot before replacing the head.
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'96 7.3 F-350 Reg Cab 4x4 - bought new.
'04 6.0 E-350 custom 4x4
'08 6.4 F-550 Reg Cab 6 spd 4x4
'17 6.7 F-250 KR ccsb 4x4
Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2014
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From: piedmont mo
I'm definitely still gonna try to get them out but I'm pulling head because the second that broke is passenger back one and I honestly don't see a good way to get at that one almost have the head ready to come off of it doesn't come without damage I'm pulling heads off my old motor to have them checked and go from there
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,821
Likes: 238
From: piedmont mo
Also on another note does anyone have the torque sequence for a 7.3 head with pictures Thad be great if so
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Thread Starter
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2014
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From: piedmont mo
OKAY another question can I reuse my stock headbolts I was hoping to not half to mess with heads till I could put studs in but to late for that should I go ahead and try to get studs now or should I just wait plane is for stage twos and s369 eventually right now I'm running 175s I got a fair deal on but I'm just building a reliable tow rig I may just stay as I am with stock nozzles do you guys think studs are necessary thanks again