Don't let the thought police destroy your love for the truck. This is simple if you worry about, just start budgeting to get the lifters replaced man. No reason to just jump to a gasser because of "what could happen". You have probably the best year 6.0 to have. Don't sell the truck brother, because even budgeting for it, you are going to come out way cheaper then having to pay that payment every month.

 

Scott, the issue is rarer then head gaskets with an F body and I would only do that if the truck was idling in service long term.

 

Scott, that chirp you're hearing is likely from your alternator pulley slipping on the belt at shut down. Changed my alternator to a DC Power 190 Amp alt a three years ago and the chirp started. Figured the smaller pulley placed less surface area in contact with the belt coupled with the higher rotating mass of the larger alt lead to the belt stopping before the alternator. Recently had some extensive work performed and had the belt tensioner/pulley replaced since the area was exposed as good preventative maintenance (210k miles). Chirp is now gone.

 

Like mentioned above, it could be the belt. I did an oil cooler recently and now at shut down it chirps like a dirty ol Cummins. It's the belt because I got oil and brake clean on it.

Do a test, lock the tensioner on its kickstand and take the belt out of the picture. I bet (hope) the squeal goes away.

 

Thanks guys, I think at a minimum I'll have wife shut down truck while I listen closely at belt area. It does sound like a belt chirp to me, but I'd like to pin it down a bit...

 

When you change the oil let some run out the pan into your hand, wipe your hands on a clean rag and hold under the sun,look for shiny spots,if found you know your about to have problems and may can repair before it gets major,maybe a roller or cam but if caught on a oil change you may save the engine and money or as some do trade it off for the next poor guy.

 

Thanks Mark, maybe I should just stop being cheap and take a sample and send it in - I have about 1500 miles on a blend of Delo 5W 40 and Delo 15W 40, mostly the syn (on what I put in) 10 qts syn plus a gallon of conventional...

It was starting and running just great until this last camp trip where it ran rough until it warmed up (we're talking only 50 degF at start up). Stiction? Crap, I think I need to just drive it more...

Sorry, it's late and I should be in bed...

 

If you still have the stock drain plug just check the magnet on the end.

 

It funny how subjects ebb and flow in forums.

All forums have lost so much because of believing in one posting source.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-about-em.html

DCF has a good page.

Failure Analysis ? DFC Diesel


The picture above is interesting, ignoring the oxidation.




But there are multiple ways for these to fail.

 

Dan,
You can always get an oil analysis to check for contaminants.


earlier this year, (at 78K mi., yea, I know) installed the updated/shorter pushrods. Upon inspection, everything looked great, no wear, looked like new actually. Will let y'all know when it grenades.

 

A few comments,

If you have a lifter making a squeaking noise it is minutes from failure, the noise is most likely an accessory or belt as was mentioned.

Oil pressure is not the issue, it is the indicator. The 6.0 thrashes the oil. As the viscosity drops so does the oil pressure. When the viscosity drops, it doesn't stick to parts as well, this opens the door to dry starts and corrosion. Parts lubed by splash are the first to suffer. I use the drop in hot idle oil pressure as an indicator of when to change oil.

Years ago when synthetics first came on the market I did a very primitive test. I took 2 screwdrivers, dipped one in synthetic oil and one in conventional oil, then hung them up. I don't remember the exact number of days, but it wasn't many, the synthetic dipped driver was bone dry, no residue. The conventional oil dipped driver held a film for well over a month. I tested Aeroshell aircraft oils and 2 stroke oils. The synthetic 2 stroke oils would be dry over night.

I believe the lifter failures are caused by corrosion, needle bearings need to be kept clean and smooth.

The most effective way to check for metal in your engine is to cut the oil filter apart and wash the paper in a clean white bucket and mineral spirits. Run a magnet through any particles to determine the metal type. Blackstone is good as well but unless you know what to look for you are at the mercy of the comments. I would watch for high iron content as that is an indication of possible corrosion.

Compared to the cost of an engine, oil is cheap and I have no problem changing it often and I would never let it go more than 6 months regardless of miles or oil pressure.