Beyond repair?
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Senior User
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Beyond repair?
I have been tearing down a 1990 351W EFI and my troubles started when I couldn't get the crank pulley to turn to TDC. I pulled the water pump and the timing chain cover has a big half moon crack in it, right behind where the water pump was. When I pulled the valve covers I noticed there were no pushrods in the #1 and #5 exhaust rockers. I tried to pull the heads last night, but due to a broken bolt on the lower intake I could only get one off and what I saw inside was scary. The pushrods were in the block because the lifters were gone and one pushrod had impaled a lifter. I haven't finished the tear down yet (I will), so I don't know what kind of shape the pistons, cam and crank are in, but what do you think, is this engine toast? This is the 1st time I have ever tore an engine down before, so I have no idea how screwed up this one is (good thing it was free).
Thanks,
Longneck
Thanks,
Longneck
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 788
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From: Hendersonville, TN
Very good thing it was free. Very possibly toast. Are you saying the missing lifters aren't
laying in the valley? That and the cracked timing cover sounds like a broken cam. Not a good
thing at all. The block could be damaged in the cam area, as well as lifter bores, and there's
also the distinct possibility of valves hitting pistons, etc. The only way to know for sure
is to finish disassembly, inspect everything carefully including test-fitting lifters in all
of the bores to make sure they still move freely. If everything LOOKS ok, then I'd have the
block checked at a reputable machine shop, and tell them what you found so they will be sure
to check for cracks/damage in the cam area, since this isn't a typical area to find such problems.
Even if all of the major components seem ok, you're still going to have to replace everything
in the lower half of the valvetrain, including the pushrods and pay to have at least the block
magnafluxed. Any damage to the pistons/cylinders will require replacing and boring, as well as
checking the connecting rods for straightness/cracks. In the long run you might be better paying
a little for a "non-fragged" rebuildable core engine that you don't have to worry about.
laying in the valley? That and the cracked timing cover sounds like a broken cam. Not a good
thing at all. The block could be damaged in the cam area, as well as lifter bores, and there's
also the distinct possibility of valves hitting pistons, etc. The only way to know for sure
is to finish disassembly, inspect everything carefully including test-fitting lifters in all
of the bores to make sure they still move freely. If everything LOOKS ok, then I'd have the
block checked at a reputable machine shop, and tell them what you found so they will be sure
to check for cracks/damage in the cam area, since this isn't a typical area to find such problems.
Even if all of the major components seem ok, you're still going to have to replace everything
in the lower half of the valvetrain, including the pushrods and pay to have at least the block
magnafluxed. Any damage to the pistons/cylinders will require replacing and boring, as well as
checking the connecting rods for straightness/cracks. In the long run you might be better paying
a little for a "non-fragged" rebuildable core engine that you don't have to worry about.
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Update: I pulled the other head and the lower intake last night and the cam was broke. I removed the oil pan and found a lot of metal inside. When the cam broke it became lodged in the crank, took a chunk out of the #1 cylinder, broke the #1 connecting rod and the skirt on the #5 piston. I think the block is shot due to the 3/4" chunk missing out of the bottom of the #1 cylinder. Oh well, atleast I had a good time tearing it apart!
Longneck
Longneck
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 255
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From: Spokane
It sounds beat up. If the crank journals are messed up then I would give up but there are some possibilities. If you could find a cheap cam and lifters, maybe even used stuff it might be worth while to put it back together and start it up. If it runs good for a while then think about a rebuild job.
Another approach is have some fun and put minimal bucks into it, find a carb. and intake manifold, distributer, coil, fuel pump, hook up a radiator and exhaust manifolds with a short exhaust pipe. Chain it down to a heavy duty pallet and start it up. I used to know a guy who did this with alot of his engines. Its pretty cool to see an engine sitting out on the ground running away. You might be the first on your block. For all folks out there that try this be careful if you rev it up, the torque will roll the engine over. Don't forget the chain.
Another approach is have some fun and put minimal bucks into it, find a carb. and intake manifold, distributer, coil, fuel pump, hook up a radiator and exhaust manifolds with a short exhaust pipe. Chain it down to a heavy duty pallet and start it up. I used to know a guy who did this with alot of his engines. Its pretty cool to see an engine sitting out on the ground running away. You might be the first on your block. For all folks out there that try this be careful if you rev it up, the torque will roll the engine over. Don't forget the chain.
