There you go Joe, that's my battery cable upgrade. Installed 2/0 cables everywhere and added grounds as well.

Grounds to:
Frame
Engine block
Body

I even tossed in two 2/0 grounds from transfer case to frame and transmission to frame.
LOL
Figured what the hell it can't hurt and they are also electronic so it's only going to help.

 

Looks good. The DC alternator I installed a few years ago prompted me to change some things.


As it stands now the vehicle has two grounds one from the battery right side to the frame and one from the engine to the frame to the battery left side. These cables are good size (not sure but look like 1/0 to me). The main starter cable is bigger than 1/0 or damn close. I rewrapped everything in split loom or electrical tape and got a chance to see every cable.


I made 1/0 cables that link both batteries across the core support, a 1/0 cable from the rh battery to a fusible link to the alternator charging post and a 1/0 cable from the rh battery ground straight to the alternator mounting bolt.


Aside from that I removed all grounds from the frame, exposed bare steel with a grinder, installed KEPS star washers on EVERYTHING that grounds when I reassembled and painted the raw steel surfaces after. IMO the KEPS washers are a must for any cable connection. This will give the ground or connection an extra bite and contact.


I personally think what I did was overkill but I have zero issues. A little different from what some of you did but accomplishes the same thing.


@mhatlen.....I like the cables from the transfer case....never seen that

 

No such thing on overkill with electrical connections etc.

I had extra cable and ends so I slapped them here and there and everywhere. LOL

A big deal with battery cable connections is "Grease" Put it on all connections like terminals and bolts and nuts holding on cable ends etc. No oxygen no corrosion and it's honestly that simple.
I also added 4 gauge cables from engine-chassis and body.

These trucks are VERY computer dependent all over the entire chassis, a well grounded chassis is a happy one.

 

Other then money.

Most times the connection has a higher resistance then the cable when you got to large cables, which is why you tend to only see two eyelets max with every tensioned connection on OE.

 

I can't offer anything even close to what TMT did in the video but would like to make a couple of comments on the subject. I like TMT's idea of parallel paths apposed to discarding oe cables in favor of larger ones. I also believe his point about connections being a limiting factor regardless of cable size should be taken seriously when upgrading grounds and/or cables. Along those lines,here's something that has worked for me on trailers. Tireing of hooking up to a trailer that has sat for months and having no lights,here's how I made a huge difference. Where the ground from truck connect's to trailer frame,I brazed a brass bolt to trailer frame. A copper eyelet is crimped and solderd to ground wire from truck. Brass nut,brass washer and copper eyelet coated in dielectric grease before tightening. I've never had that connection oxidize and fail eventhough some are over 10 years old. I've had plugs and wires torn off and spliced onto wire from connection but have never had to clean the connection. Why not braze some copper or brass to truck frame for cables to connect to? I believe half the battle with oxidation is overcome by having copper to copper/brass connections. The other half is tight connection and grease. This actually begain while deciding between dielectric and conductive grease,then grew from there. Not to rekindle the debate,but research convinced me conductive grease is ok between similar metals but often make's things worse when applied between dis-similar metals with electric flowing through. At any rate,TMT's suggestion in adding parallel wire/cable seem's logical as well as cost effective.