OEM Cargo Light Retrofit?
Sorry to revive an old thread. I have a 2018 f250 lariat without led or blis. I just followed this write up to add the factory bed lights to the truck. I got everything wired up and plugged in. I haven't bought the forscan module yet so I wanted to test it by opening the door or hitting the key fob to make sure everything works, and it doesn't. I double checked all of my wiring, even took the connectors out and put the terminals directly to the plugs at the frame connector. Any idea why this isn't working for me? I would prefer to see them come on and light up before I buy the module for forscan. Any help is greatly appreciated! I am out of ideas as to why its not working. Thanks in advance!
Thanks for the great write-up. I've done a couple of write-ups for other projects and I know it takes a lot of effort. I'm waiting on a few more parts and I'll be doing this project.
In the meantime, since it's such a beautiful day, I decided to do some prep work, namely; remove the plastic filler panels where the lights are going to go. My 2020 has the factory sprayed bed liner.
I thought I'd post this little tip up, just in case I'm not the only dummy out there!
I was struggling a bit with a sharp razor blade, trying to make a perfect cut around the filler plug. It was a slow waste of time, kind of dangerous, and it didn't look like the result was not going to be all that clean.
Here's a better way that worked great and only took a couple of minutes:
I ended up using the razor to slice an "X" on top of the plug from corner to corner.
This allows you to peel the coating off the plug almost like an orange. Then, you can just lay the razor on its side on top of the plug and slice the coating while you're pulling it away from the plug. It will come off almost perfectly. You may have to do a small amount of trimming for the light to fit flush.
If ya'll already knew this, good on ya! For the others like myself, I hope this saves you a few minutes and a few stitches!
In the meantime, since it's such a beautiful day, I decided to do some prep work, namely; remove the plastic filler panels where the lights are going to go. My 2020 has the factory sprayed bed liner.
I thought I'd post this little tip up, just in case I'm not the only dummy out there!
I was struggling a bit with a sharp razor blade, trying to make a perfect cut around the filler plug. It was a slow waste of time, kind of dangerous, and it didn't look like the result was not going to be all that clean.
Here's a better way that worked great and only took a couple of minutes:
I ended up using the razor to slice an "X" on top of the plug from corner to corner.
This allows you to peel the coating off the plug almost like an orange. Then, you can just lay the razor on its side on top of the plug and slice the coating while you're pulling it away from the plug. It will come off almost perfectly. You may have to do a small amount of trimming for the light to fit flush.
If ya'll already knew this, good on ya! For the others like myself, I hope this saves you a few minutes and a few stitches!
Just did this on my 2021 F250 XLT with BLIS. The write up was great and can be followed for a 2021 like my truck. EXCEPT, the white wire that gets power appears to have been moved to the Drivers side. Its the same type 12 pin connector and everything but the white wire that gets power from the BCM is now on the Drivers side. I hooked into the white wire on the passenger's side but the lights did not work. I thought I was going to have to maybe get a newer schematic and/or location for the wire from Ford but I just got lucky really. I was looking under there and happened to notice the same connector opposite side. It had a white wire on one side and a white brown on the other side. The switch wire was already working and I had enabled the lights in Forscan. The switch wire is still the White/Blue on the passenger side like the write up says. I back probed the white wire on the drivers side and found that it was being given 12Volts when commanded by the bed switch I had installed. So thanks for the great write up and I want to add to this one on 2021 Trucks look for the white wire in the connector on the drivers side. Same style connector, I think its a 12 pin. Mine had a wire there already so I just cut it and splice in the power wire up to my Bed Lights and now they work. Good luck!!
I looked at my current harness part # which ends in P. Based on the the versions listed, seems like we need RB. (Ignore the Regular Cab note. All 13 versions said that.) How hard was it to replace or did you not even get that far?
Bed Lamps: FL3Z-13A756-A - Need 2 of them
Switch: FL3Z-9C888-B
Main Harness: HC3Z-13A409-RB
Driver Side Harness: HC3Z-13K371-A
Passenger Side Harness: HC3Z-13K371-B
.
.
Bed Lamps: FL3Z-13A756-A - Need 2 of them
Switch: FL3Z-9C888-B
Main Harness: HC3Z-13A409-RB
Driver Side Harness: HC3Z-13K371-A
Passenger Side Harness: HC3Z-13K371-B
.
.
Hello all,
I thinking about installing the cargo bed lights in my 2019 f-250. It is an XLT, non-BLIS, and non-LED. From reading over the past conversations in this thread I was able to figure out I need:
wiring harness for the left side LED: HC3Z-13K371-A
wiring harness for right-side LED and switch: HC3Z-13K371-B
LED bed lights: FL3Z-13A756-A
Bed switch: FL3Z-9C888-B
I am still a little lost on what cross-over harness I need. I think I need the "HC3Z-13A409-RB" harness. I was wondering if any of you guys would have any idea if this harness is correct for what I have or if I'm wrong with my assumption.
I thinking about installing the cargo bed lights in my 2019 f-250. It is an XLT, non-BLIS, and non-LED. From reading over the past conversations in this thread I was able to figure out I need:
wiring harness for the left side LED: HC3Z-13K371-A
wiring harness for right-side LED and switch: HC3Z-13K371-B
LED bed lights: FL3Z-13A756-A
Bed switch: FL3Z-9C888-B
I am still a little lost on what cross-over harness I need. I think I need the "HC3Z-13A409-RB" harness. I was wondering if any of you guys would have any idea if this harness is correct for what I have or if I'm wrong with my assumption.
Here's the parts I used on my 2017.....mine's also an XLT, non-BLIS, non-LED.
Part Number
Part Name
Price
Quantity
Total
FL3Z-13A756-A
Cargo Lamp
$31.12
Tax : California State Tax (8.00%)
2
$62.24
FL3Z-9C888-B
Switch Assembly - Steering Wheel
$8.54
Tax : California State Tax (8.00%)
1
$8.54
HC3Z-13A409-RB
Wire Assembly
$58.58
Tax : California State Tax (8.00%)
1
$58.58
HC3Z-13K371-A
Wire Assembly
$7.51
Tax : California State Tax (8.00%)
1
$7.51
HC3Z-13K371-B
Wire Assembly
$12.51
Tax : California State Tax (8.00%)
1
$12.51
Part Number
Part Name
Price
Quantity
Total
FL3Z-13A756-A
Cargo Lamp
$31.12
Tax : California State Tax (8.00%)
2
$62.24
FL3Z-9C888-B
Switch Assembly - Steering Wheel
$8.54
Tax : California State Tax (8.00%)
1
$8.54
HC3Z-13A409-RB
Wire Assembly
$58.58
Tax : California State Tax (8.00%)
1
$58.58
HC3Z-13K371-A
Wire Assembly
$7.51
Tax : California State Tax (8.00%)
1
$7.51
HC3Z-13K371-B
Wire Assembly
$12.51
Tax : California State Tax (8.00%)
1
$12.51
Just did this on my 2021 F250 XLT with BLIS. The write up was great and can be followed for a 2021 like my truck. EXCEPT, the white wire that gets power appears to have been moved to the Drivers side. Its the same type 12 pin connector and everything but the white wire that gets power from the BCM is now on the Drivers side. I hooked into the white wire on the passenger's side but the lights did not work. I thought I was going to have to maybe get a newer schematic and/or location for the wire from Ford but I just got lucky really. I was looking under there and happened to notice the same connector opposite side. It had a white wire on one side and a white brown on the other side. The switch wire was already working and I had enabled the lights in Forscan. The switch wire is still the White/Blue on the passenger side like the write up says. I back probed the white wire on the drivers side and found that it was being given 12Volts when commanded by the bed switch I had installed. So thanks for the great write up and I want to add to this one on 2021 Trucks look for the white wire in the connector on the drivers side. Same style connector, I think its a 12 pin. Mine had a wire there already so I just cut it and splice in the power wire up to my Bed Lights and now they work. Good luck!!
"Here are the settings (in red) to add bed lights to a 2020, at least on my truck, 4 Settings for bed lights, what in the world!
726-46-01 xxx* xxxx xxxx Bed_Lamp_Cfg ENUM: 0=DISABLE 1=ENABLE
726-71-01 x*xx xxxx xxxx WhiteLightCkt_Cfg ENUM: 0=NOT_USED 1=USED
726-81-01 x*xx xxxx xxxx Ext_Courtesy_Sw_Input_Cfg ENUM: 0=NULL 1=EXT_COURTESYLAMP_SW 2=MAN_PUDDLE
726-81-01 xxx* xxxx xxxx Rear_Ext_Courtesy_Mode_Cfg ENUM: 0=NULL 1=BEDLIGHT 2=DOWNLIGHT 3=FLOODLIGHT"
I just got my bed/cargo lights working. 2021 F250 XLT Crew Cab.
My original wiring harness that goes from taillight to taillight was LC3Z13A409H (13A409). I found a very similar Lariat on Autotrader that showed pictures of the bed with the lights. I used its VIN on parts.ford.com to search it's as-built harness. That led me to the LC3Z13A409G. Pay close attention that the description matches your original description as far as BLISS and LED lighting. My truck has BLISS but not LED lighting. The cable for LED lighting is different then the one without. So my parts ended up being:
LC3Z13A409G -- $166.83 -- wiring harness that replaces my LC3Z13A409H. Connects to the main harness along the passenger frame rail between the spare tire and the rear bumper. It has two plugs at the main harness then splits to go to the left tail light and to the right tail light. On the smaller plug of the H version it has two wires while the G has four wires. I assume one is the switch feedback and the other is the lights. It also adds a plugin on each side where the wire turns to go up to the taillight - this is where the new switch and lights plug in.
SW7733 -- $29.27 -- called the Tailgate Release Switch, it is a momentary switch. I measured the voltage on it at 3.5v so this is just a signal back to the computer to change the state of the lights.
LC3Z13K371A -- $23.67 -- drivers side harness from 13A409G to bed switch and light
LC3Z13K371B -- $17.50 -- passenger side harness from 13A409G to bed light
REC26417FD -- $143.78 -- the pair of actual lights, I ordered these from Stage3 Motorsports, they are supposed to be brighter then OEM.
I then used Forscan to change these settings:
- BdyCM-BCM enabled Bed Lamp Output
- BdyCM-BCM As Built
- Set 726-46-01 xxx1 xxxx xx
- Set 726-71-01 x1xx xxxx xx
- Set 726-81-01 x201 xxxx xx
I tried after each setting change and it didn't work until I had all of these changes.
I had to take out the taillights to replace the harness. It was much easier to do with the spare tire dropped down as well.
My original wiring harness that goes from taillight to taillight was LC3Z13A409H (13A409). I found a very similar Lariat on Autotrader that showed pictures of the bed with the lights. I used its VIN on parts.ford.com to search it's as-built harness. That led me to the LC3Z13A409G. Pay close attention that the description matches your original description as far as BLISS and LED lighting. My truck has BLISS but not LED lighting. The cable for LED lighting is different then the one without. So my parts ended up being:
LC3Z13A409G -- $166.83 -- wiring harness that replaces my LC3Z13A409H. Connects to the main harness along the passenger frame rail between the spare tire and the rear bumper. It has two plugs at the main harness then splits to go to the left tail light and to the right tail light. On the smaller plug of the H version it has two wires while the G has four wires. I assume one is the switch feedback and the other is the lights. It also adds a plugin on each side where the wire turns to go up to the taillight - this is where the new switch and lights plug in.
SW7733 -- $29.27 -- called the Tailgate Release Switch, it is a momentary switch. I measured the voltage on it at 3.5v so this is just a signal back to the computer to change the state of the lights.
LC3Z13K371A -- $23.67 -- drivers side harness from 13A409G to bed switch and light
LC3Z13K371B -- $17.50 -- passenger side harness from 13A409G to bed light
REC26417FD -- $143.78 -- the pair of actual lights, I ordered these from Stage3 Motorsports, they are supposed to be brighter then OEM.
I then used Forscan to change these settings:
- BdyCM-BCM enabled Bed Lamp Output
- BdyCM-BCM As Built
- Set 726-46-01 xxx1 xxxx xx
- Set 726-71-01 x1xx xxxx xx
- Set 726-81-01 x201 xxxx xx
I tried after each setting change and it didn't work until I had all of these changes.
I had to take out the taillights to replace the harness. It was much easier to do with the spare tire dropped down as well.
Does anyone know if the LC3Z prefix parts will interchange with the HC3Z prefix ones? I'm very interested in doing this with OEM parts but of course the two smaller harnesses have been discontinued. Other than the prefix the part numbers are the same so I thought it might be doable with the newer part numbers. I guess what I'm asking is are the parts the same even though they have different prefixes?
Does anyone know if the LC3Z prefix parts will interchange with the HC3Z prefix ones? I'm very interested in doing this with OEM parts but of course the two smaller harnesses have been discontinued. Other than the prefix the part numbers are the same so I thought it might be doable with the newer part numbers. I guess what I'm asking is are the parts the same even though they have different prefixes?
2021 F250
I can confirm that on my 2021 F250 XLT I also did not have power in the white wire on the passenger side after modifying all 4 Forscan lines. I tried JASMO123's approach and it does behave this way. Signal/switch wire is on passenger side white/blue wire as mentioned above but only the drivers side white wire is suppling power when cab light is on and when switched with the switch through the signal wire. I have XLT with BLIS, non LED,
Just did this on my 2021 F250 XLT with BLIS. The write up was great and can be followed for a 2021 like my truck. EXCEPT, the white wire that gets power appears to have been moved to the Drivers side. Its the same type 12 pin connector and everything but the white wire that gets power from the BCM is now on the Drivers side. I hooked into the white wire on the passenger's side but the lights did not work. I thought I was going to have to maybe get a newer schematic and/or location for the wire from Ford but I just got lucky really. I was looking under there and happened to notice the same connector opposite side. It had a white wire on one side and a white brown on the other side. The switch wire was already working and I had enabled the lights in Forscan. The switch wire is still the White/Blue on the passenger side like the write up says. I back probed the white wire on the drivers side and found that it was being given 12Volts when commanded by the bed switch I had installed. So thanks for the great write up and I want to add to this one on 2021 Trucks look for the white wire in the connector on the drivers side. Same style connector, I think its a 12 pin. Mine had a wire there already so I just cut it and splice in the power wire up to my Bed Lights and now they work. Good luck!!
Okay, I am back here because my lights quite working. As well as my mirror lights. I have read other places that if you install the cheaper LED lights from Amazon that the BCM will decide it has a Short in the system and turn off the power to the bed lights and the spot lights. I looked in Forscan and can confirm that I have a code set but I don't recall exactly what it says but it does line up with the system turning the circuit off. I am hoping that I can just swap out the lights but I also saw where some folks say that you have to get a Ford dealer to reset that code to turn the circuit back on. So has anyone here had this happen after doing the bed lights? Did you have to go back to Ford dealer or can something else be done? Thanks,
I have a '17 F-250 XLT Premium and ordered the lights and switch previously thinking the truck was pre-wired but come to find out it is NOT! So, I ordered the wiring harnesses today per the above posting. I just hope this all works out and I didn't waste a bunch of money.








