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Old Oct 5, 2017 | 11:00 AM
  #76  
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Looks like the access is coming along nicely, Sean. I believe the drywall needs to be at least 5/8" thick.

Since it appears we have at least two journeyman electricians on here, can someone answer the question:

Why did the tradition of installing duplex plugs ground pin down in houses, and ground pin up in hospitals, develop?

How about Federal court houses? ( I assume that a Federal job would be at the utmost of compliance)

Another thought:

Where are the new TR (tamper resistant) receptacles required? Is it something of which Sean needs to be aware?

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Old Oct 5, 2017 | 01:14 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by SpringerPop
Why did the tradition of installing duplex plugs ground pin down in houses, and ground pin up in hospitals, develop?

Interested in the answers to that. Did not know about the hospitals having a different tradition. I mostly see the 20A in hospitals. Don't know if that has anything to do with the ground orientation. I see them upside down all the time though, and since it isn't a code thing not a big deal, but I usually assume an amateur did it. Most likely a painter.


As far as why the ground is on the bottom, I cipher that out like this. When you grasp the plug on a cord, most people will grasp it with their hand around the plug, their thumb on top of the plug, which leaves the fingers closest to the bottom side. If your fat fingers wrap over the lead edge a bit, you would really rather they touched the ground pin than across the business pins.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2017 | 01:21 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by Jklnhyd
Who got the inspector?
You can't get your own?

You can always hire your own, and if you feel like spending a few hundred it is a good idea before you list. Then you'll clear up the worst of it, and always leave a few things for the buyers inspector to find. They won't ever leave a house without finding something.


Buyers always have the right to hire their own inspector. And it would be stupid not to.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2017 | 01:45 PM
  #79  
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Happily we signed a new buyer so the 30 day clock starts again. Our electric connection to the service pole needed some work, which Com Ed too care of. Plumber fixed 250$ worth of stuff. Buyer will pay for tenting and $200 in hiding old bug holes. The Bug guy was impressed with my door, but that didn't stop him from finding a few carcass's in the attic, so a tenting we will go.

I was able to fix the simple stuff that I've been living with for years, but couldn't see (Roger that Pop, 5/8ths). Selling motivates my round tuit gene.

Luckily it's a buyers market in N. IL. My better half has no issues finding the 'perfect house'. My only requirement is a workshop for hobbies, of course with conduit in the garage.


Originally Posted by Jklnhyd
I ask how high end could the work be if it isn't to code?
The more I talk with Scouting dads in the trades, catching the city inspector on a good day can make all the difference. Clearly, there are gray areas, depending on the specific code, and ones' relationship with the 'guy'.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2017 | 09:34 PM
  #80  
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To my understanding there is no code requirements pertaining to ground up or down, but commercial is usually done up and residential is down.

the theory i have hered is with ground up there is less of a chance of a metallic item causeig a short if the plug is slightly pulled down from cord weight, etc.

in residential typically ground down because everyone considers that the correct way. Now a ground up duplex (one plug out of 4,etc) in a room can indicate a switched duplex or a "half hot" meaning half of the duplex is switched for example a lamp, and the other half is constant power.

on electrical forums the ground up or down and cover plate screws vertical or horizontal are very heated topics, much like the ford, dodge, chevy debates or gas vs. Diesel, etc

that's just how i see it, opinions may differ.... end of the day i really don't care so long as the customer, boss, inspectors are happy and my paycheck clears.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2017 | 10:49 PM
  #81  
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Im not an electrician, but I have dealt with applications relating to my field since '92.

I install the screws vertically because it matches the plug slots.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2017 | 12:10 AM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by OldBlackCat
...cover plate screws vertical or horizontal are very heated topics...
Really? Who would'a thunkit?

What reasons would one be favored over the other, or "just snug"?

EDIT: Jon's reason is sound, I just never thought about it in all these years.

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Old Oct 6, 2017 | 06:55 AM
  #83  
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I heard a story from his brother, about my boss. He had a dog eared fence installed around a portion of his property. He instructed the guys to make sure all of the phillip screws were finished as an "X" and not a "+" or at a random angle.
I like working for a guy like that.

I clock my screws, bolts, or nuts where I can where it isn't a question of torque or tightness. A wall plate screw cover is only holding a cover plate so there is no reason not to clock the screws.

As mentioned, I clock a cover plate vertically, but will match the clocking of the rest of the plates in the immediate area if it is horizontal. I rarely see horizontal or random.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2017 | 07:25 AM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by Jklnhyd
I rarely see horizontal or random.
At my house they're pointing every which way but loose.


Originally Posted by Jklnhyd
Smog testing is 1996 and newer in Illinois. You need to get you a 1979 or older truck that has had all of the emissions removed and can't pass smog here and ship it back with you.
Another candidate. https://ventura.craigslist.org/cto/d...273713767.html
 
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Old Oct 7, 2017 | 09:44 AM
  #85  
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Wow.

If you gots the bread n cheddar, might as well pile on the meat, eh?

That is as turn key as it get. I say pull the trigger!
 
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Old Oct 7, 2017 | 02:42 PM
  #86  
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I'd look that green crew cab over very carefully. That engine didn't come in that truck. Though it's certainly nice to have the torque of a SuperGasGuzzler, an FE 390 was the biggest for that year. Be aware of the stated electrical issues, and he has modified some wiring as evidenced by the different instrument panel. A good look up underneath the dash would be in order. Do you want to straighten out a rat's nest if that's what you find there?

Electric door locks and windows are nice, but the quality of their installations would have to be verified. In the photo in which you can see the Moon-eyes loud pedal, on the extreme left there are a couple of white "wires" in the pillar that look like they may not be protected well, along with a non-standard bracket that probably holds the alarm switch for that door. He may not be willing to remove the door panels for an inspection, and you sure don't want to sink that kind of money into something that needs chasing problems.

Something else in that same photo: the brake pedal is for a manual transmission model. The automatic trans models had the wide pedal, yes, even back in 1969.

I'm not sure if this one shouldn't have had a dual battery setup or not.

I suspect he over-estimates it's value, though I have nothing to which to compare it. Do you want or need a four-door, given your current ride? A clean, long-bed standard bed would certainly be more available and cost-effective.

It sure is shiny, though.....

If you go to look at it, take Dummy with you!

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Old Oct 7, 2017 | 05:18 PM
  #87  
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If there ain't nothing to fix, why buy it fer?
 
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Old Oct 7, 2017 | 06:35 PM
  #88  
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Lol, yeah it would look outta place in the salt belt.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2017 | 08:02 PM
  #89  
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$9k cheaper, 2 years newer, SB and 4x4

https://visalia.craigslist.org/cto/d...289731416.html
 
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Old Oct 7, 2017 | 08:03 PM
  #90  
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Originally Posted by wpnaes
Lol, yeah it would look outta place in the salt belt.
Not really Sean.

Anything will rust away here in Illinois.
 
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