injector / glow plug replace question
#1
injector / glow plug replace question
Hi all,
So I definitely have a glow plug issue. I also think I might have an injector acting funny.
So my question is about maintenance. If you replace injectors, do you always do the injector cups also? When/why would you do one with or without the other? Does it make sense to do glow plugs separate from injectors?
Having three little kids, time is a premium and I would rather lose a single day and do everything than 3 6-hour days.
Thanks!
Joe
So I definitely have a glow plug issue. I also think I might have an injector acting funny.
So my question is about maintenance. If you replace injectors, do you always do the injector cups also? When/why would you do one with or without the other? Does it make sense to do glow plugs separate from injectors?
Having three little kids, time is a premium and I would rather lose a single day and do everything than 3 6-hour days.
Thanks!
Joe
#2
#3
As Ipzd said, if the cups are not leaking and look good, leave them in place. If they are leaking or look to be in bad shape, replace them.
If it isn't broke, don't fix it... This saying comes into play because changing the cups is a pretty involved process, especially for a first timer. It is not hard, just tedious and needs to be done right with proper prep and cleaning, or you will be right back in it.
Replace the glow plugs with genuine Motorcraft unless they are newish, again like Ipzd said. Glow plugs are simply unscrew and rescrew. Most people remove them anyway to purge the cylinders of oil, so why not replace them with fresh parts.
Same goes for the UVCH, easy replacement that you have to remove anyway...
We are good at spending your time and money, but it really comes down to what you need and want out of the truck based on your budget for cash and time.
If it isn't broke, don't fix it... This saying comes into play because changing the cups is a pretty involved process, especially for a first timer. It is not hard, just tedious and needs to be done right with proper prep and cleaning, or you will be right back in it.
Replace the glow plugs with genuine Motorcraft unless they are newish, again like Ipzd said. Glow plugs are simply unscrew and rescrew. Most people remove them anyway to purge the cylinders of oil, so why not replace them with fresh parts.
Same goes for the UVCH, easy replacement that you have to remove anyway...
We are good at spending your time and money, but it really comes down to what you need and want out of the truck based on your budget for cash and time.
#4
As Ipzd said, if the cups are not leaking and look good, leave them in place. If they are leaking or look to be in bad shape, replace them.
If it isn't broke, don't fix it... This saying comes into play because changing the cups is a pretty involved process, especially for a first timer. It is not hard, just tedious and needs to be done right with proper prep and cleaning, or you will be right back in it.
Replace the glow plugs with genuine Motorcraft unless they are newish, again like Ipzd said. Glow plugs are simply unscrew and rescrew. Most people remove them anyway to purge the cylinders of oil, so why not replace them with fresh parts.
Same goes for the UVCH, easy replacement that you have to remove anyway...
We are good at spending your time and money, but it really comes down to what you need and want out of the truck based on your budget for cash and time.
If it isn't broke, don't fix it... This saying comes into play because changing the cups is a pretty involved process, especially for a first timer. It is not hard, just tedious and needs to be done right with proper prep and cleaning, or you will be right back in it.
Replace the glow plugs with genuine Motorcraft unless they are newish, again like Ipzd said. Glow plugs are simply unscrew and rescrew. Most people remove them anyway to purge the cylinders of oil, so why not replace them with fresh parts.
Same goes for the UVCH, easy replacement that you have to remove anyway...
We are good at spending your time and money, but it really comes down to what you need and want out of the truck based on your budget for cash and time.
#5
You "should" pressure test the coolant system to ensure they are holding pressure (coolant) as they are designed to. There are several "how to" instructions in this section.
I think Brian42 has one, maybe Tugly and I think Andym all have replaced cups somewhat recently after testing them and finding them faulty.
I think Brian42 has one, maybe Tugly and I think Andym all have replaced cups somewhat recently after testing them and finding them faulty.
#6
Said you have glow plugs already, but no mention of injectors on hand, if you are only going in for glow plugs and decide to forgo injectors and uvch at least check the torque on rocker arms and hot torque injectors, and do .50 cent mod while you are under there.
for glow plugs, 10mm deep well, 3" extension, torque to 14 Foot pounds, use a 4-5" piece of flexible 1/4" hose shoved on the ends to remove them and thread them in, I used a very light layer of nickel anti seize
then torque rocker arms, 1 on each side of injectors, 8mm socket, 20 Foot pounds
injectors, 8mm socket, INCH POUNDS set to 50, and work up by 10's if they are loose between 50 & 80 people on here reccomend to replace orings, otherwise should be ok without. Since injectors also use a 8mm socket I tested my torque wrench before injectors each time on a rocker arm since they are torqued tighter. Torque specs are 120 inch pounds, if you've read much on here you'll see everyone swears by 130 inch pounds, the truck will run much quieter. I slowly and carefully went above 120 as well, it definitely makes the truck quieter, it was nerve wracking going higher tho, be vey very careful, and test your wrench on the rocker every time, even when the ratchet part of the torque wrench advances a click. Read up on the hot torque procedure
valve covers, torque to 98 inch pounds
for glow plugs, 10mm deep well, 3" extension, torque to 14 Foot pounds, use a 4-5" piece of flexible 1/4" hose shoved on the ends to remove them and thread them in, I used a very light layer of nickel anti seize
then torque rocker arms, 1 on each side of injectors, 8mm socket, 20 Foot pounds
injectors, 8mm socket, INCH POUNDS set to 50, and work up by 10's if they are loose between 50 & 80 people on here reccomend to replace orings, otherwise should be ok without. Since injectors also use a 8mm socket I tested my torque wrench before injectors each time on a rocker arm since they are torqued tighter. Torque specs are 120 inch pounds, if you've read much on here you'll see everyone swears by 130 inch pounds, the truck will run much quieter. I slowly and carefully went above 120 as well, it definitely makes the truck quieter, it was nerve wracking going higher tho, be vey very careful, and test your wrench on the rocker every time, even when the ratchet part of the torque wrench advances a click. Read up on the hot torque procedure
valve covers, torque to 98 inch pounds
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