I cant speqk for the 6.7 but seeing the engine bay just looks terrifying to work on like the 6.4. The 7.3 is almost as easy like working on a carburated car, in with this many years be out and knowing how reliable it is i would cjoose the 7.3 any day, the trannys are not bad at all all they need is a big cooler to make them last, look at my sig my obs still has the stck e4od minus the TC that I replaced for a triple disc TC. This truck used to be on the fleet the ols mechanoc was a trck racer and new how important having cool tranny temps woll make it love so since it was new in 94 or 95 this thing had a tranny cooler with fan and tranny has held up this long, i mean come on if it was a bad design this thing would of been replaced, and yes its the stock tranny with written records, you can believe or not but i wouldnt say the 4r100 is bad just needs a bigger cooler once you mod then stuff starts to break. Just my .02

 

I really should have mentioned, I won't have an automatic. Gotta be a 5 speed so I can teach the kids how to drive stick. The 7.3 auto trans is a known weak link. I'd take one if you gave it to me, but if I'm buying it's gotta be a stick.

 

If you don't want the auto it eliminates the 6.7. Last I knew you could still get a Cummins with the manual but ford did away with it when they introduced the 6.7.

 

That was just an example, but I think you get what I am trying to say.

Like you, here in GA the emissions could just "fall off", but for a lot of diesel owners the would have to be put "back on" in order to drive the truck.

As you mentioned below, to each their own and I am glad you are as happy with how you spent your money as I spent mine in order to tow a 12K lbs camper at 65 MPH up the Rocky Mountains.

Agree to disagree, at least we have many choices here in the good old USA.

 

That was my requirement as well and why it took me nearly a year to find a truck that I would be happy with. I am glad we waited and it is a beast even on stock injectors and slightly modified turbo.

 

True again... I am sure they fixed it by now, but the RAM had front subframe issues with the welds cracking and breaking for a while. How would you feel about buying a truck for $50K or more and the frame welds are breaking within the first 25K miles...

 

I don't know which this is, but I know there are some things in there that a consumer simply cannot get to without a body hoist. I bought an engine hoist and stand that fit in the family garage I had, and they folded up nicely out of the way when not in use. Transmission jacks aren't that large or expensive either. Body hoist? How many family garages fit that? How many people will invest in that expense to do engine repairs?

Ford did this on purpose - to support their dealership service departments... and I hear tell Ford is not exclusive in this practice. When corporate America decides to stick it to us like this, I vote with my feet.

 

No more manual transmissions in Fords diesel trucks.

But, the Engine has a SAE boltpattern on it, so that you can convert it just about any transmission you want....

 

I chuckle when I read people's comments to the effect of "I don't want a newer one, because they're too hard to work on."

Guess what, people had the EXACT same comments when the 99's came out.

FWIW when the day comes to send mine down the road I'd like to get a 5.0 and slap twin turbo's on it. Always wanted a TT V8.

 

Perhaps you are right. But technology/mechanical advancement is not always a step in the right direction.

As for the OP, perhaps Pete (F250_) and Fat Diesel are right and the gasoline route is the way to go.

 

The 6.7L was designed specifically so that all major bolt-on engine components could be serviced without removing or lifting the cab.

What's deceptive with the 6.7L is that from an initial look, yes, the underhood packaging is quite overwhelming. However, once you remove the upper intake, the whole top of the engine opens up. It's quite amazing, so if your bored one day and have a few minutes...

Design for service was a priority when the 6.7L engine design was still a blank sheet of paper. Moving the fuel injectors outside the rocker covers, relocating the high pressure fuel pump to the front of the engine, eliminating the 3 bolt flanges at the turbo up-pipes in favor of an accessible marmon type flange/clamp design were incorporated to improve serviceability. The location of the EGR cooler assembly on the RH valve cover allows for it to be removed and on the bench in approx. 20 minutes if needed.

There are many other subtle details like thermostat access, engine sensor locations or the label on the oil cooler to let you guys know that there's an internal fastener before someone tries to pry the cooler loose once the external fasteners are removed. These design aspects were incorporated to provide a highly serviceable engine package.

The only repair that cab removal is still the primary method (but not the only) is for a complete engine rebuild with either a long block or short block. The reason being that you can't lift the engine high enough for the cast upper oil pan assembly to clear the #1 cross member before the turbo hits the cowl.

(stole some of this from the 6.7 forum)

Not trying to start a war here at all. But the bottom line is the 6.7 is not hard to work on, Just last week I replaced the turbo coolant fitting as it had started leaking, Took 1.5 hours start to finish.

Now the 6.4 on the other hand is horrible!

And yes, to the OP's question, if it will be stick, then 7.3 for sure.

 

OK then, 7.3 it is! I do like the looks of the 6.7s but it's not worth the extra $$$ if i can't have what I want.


Now to find one with decent mileage and double pocket doors...

 

Yoy can always convert your truck to 11-16 front end, bed, and interior just a thought, and you get to keep the reliability of the 7.3.

 

Has someone documented this? That sounds like a fantastic compromise!

 

I did see a thread recently of someone doing this... Can't remember if it was here or powerstroke Nation or something.