Do I want to consider this ? I cracked it attempting to push too hard installing a u joint. At first I thought no, but considering the amount of work to basically remove the differential to remove the c clip, wonder if putting the Mig to work might not be a bad idea ? I could clamp it to correct size and close the cracked gap ..... so what say the group ? This is a front driveshaft on the Dana 44 Pass side, so short one that cannot be slipped out of differential .....

 

No!
I am no stranger to rigging things but his is something you don't want to come apart while your driving.

 

From reading your other thread and your description here I think you're talking about the axle, not the driveshaft. I would be slightly more willing to not scream "NO!!!" to welding the axle. It's pretty well contained in the swing arm, so when it lets loose it probably won't take out your oil pan like the driveshaft would. Also it spins a lot slower so the vibration from the imbalance won't be as terrible. It's still a bad idea, but not quite as bad.

But taking the diff out isn't the end of the world either. You need to take the driver's side axle shaft out, remove the bolts from the diff "cover" and a couple of bigger bolts on the driver's side of the diff. Have the truck supported on the frame with the axles drooping to get enough clearance to worm the diff out. Once it's out the C-clip comes off easily and you can get the axle shaft out. So I'd strongly suggest doing it right.

 

Well I guess doing it right makes sense, maybe the next question does anybody have an extra one of these parts they are willing to get rid of for a reasonable price ? Haven't checked a dealers price but they are normally not so good ....

 

If you are a good welder, I say go for it. Because this is on the front, it's probably not used very much and not at high speed. If you are not sure of your welding skills, take it to a professional welder.

 

I have front ttb out of an f250....if it's the same then you can have it. Just pay shipping from 63640. I can get it tomorrow. But not sure if it correct for you. 97 f250

 

MIG? I would stick weld it with some 6010 or 6011 before I MIG'd it.

In no way am I a certified welder nor do I pretend to be one. I am just offering my advice based on experience.

 

Humphrey169:

Thanks for the offer, I will try to check soon, however one source seems to be indicating the dana 44 part fits 86 to 94. Will try to verify ...

 

Dixie460:

If it were out of the truck I wouldn't have a problem attempting with the mig, however welding overhead or vertical I am not as skilled as downward. First step I need to verify if cast iron or steel. If steel sounds like I will have better luck, if cast iron sounds like I might need to bite the bullet and change out the part ....

 

The smart play looks like replacing the part. When I put a cap in that broken ear then tried to clamp tight, looks like the final hole is a bit egg shaped. So the smart play should be to get a replacement part anyone got an 88 to 96 dana 44 front end pass side inner shaft ? It's the one that needs to be removed via an internal c clip removal .... of course it couldn't be the easy side ....

 

Unless I'm missing something, there are no c clips on the front axle. There is no diff cover to remove the the c clips. It has a 3rd member drop out or pig. The axles have to be removed before you can unbolt the pig.
You should be able to pull the tire, remove the Brakes and hub. Then you need the four prong spindle nut socket. There will be the 2 nuts, the first one is the lock nut, then there is a ring with holes then your spindle nut that loads the bearings. Once that is all removed you can pull the rotor off the bearings will come with it. Then you have to remove your spindle and the axle should pull out. If I remember right there is a ring on the diff side of the axle and you have to give it a little jerk and it pops out.
if you replace the axle you can count on needing a new wheel seal, and I would replace the bearing in the spindle while it was off. I believe there is a seal there as well. Also repack the wheel bearings.
Maybe this help? Or I'm way off, it's been awhile since I've had to do this. Maybe someone else will chime in.

Missed your last post about passenger side. The above would still need to be done on the driver side, and the passenger side. Difference will be the passenger side shaft will pull out of the slip yoke. Once you have both driver and passenger axles out you have to drop the pig to replace the inner axle on passenger side. I believe there is a c clip on this side. I may wrong like I said been awhile since I've had one apart.

 

As you got to later in your post, there is a C-clip on the passenger side inside the diff cover. This needs to be removed to replace the inner part of the right side shaft that the OP is dealing with.


And the front diff doesn't really have a 3rd member dropout (like a 9"). Rather it has a normal Dana diff case with the driver's side traction beam serving as the cover. So when we talk about "cover bolts" on a Twin Traction Beam we're talking about the bolts that hold the diff case to the beam.

 

Just an update on the status:

Since I have a few days off, this project made it towards the top of the list, particularly since I have to watch out for my neighborhood watch dog lady .. I did indeed as suggested above dropped the pig out late today. Now to clean up the greasy thing and see what parts need to be ordered. Also I did find that it was indeed a smart move, the U joint outer on the driver side although not much play, had no movement in one of the joints .... so one more item to be replaced. Tomorrow hope to check movement of drive shafts to determine if bearings will be on the list, likely so .... I would hate to be doing this when the weather gets bad - outside ....

 

I forgot to ask one question, RTV or a gasket when re assembling ? Red RTV was on this when disassembled ....