Long start when engine is hot
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,522
Likes: 11
From: Townsend, MT
A lot of my carbed vehicles act the same way. If they sit for less than about an hour, the gas boils out of the bowls and a lot of the vapors remain in the intake. This leads to a flooded condition. Hold the skinny pedal to floor while cranking and it takes right off.
If it sits longer, the gas boils out of the bowls and now I have to crank on it for awhile to get gas back in the bowls.
This garbage they sell us that gets passed off as gasoline is a bit irritating at times. I wish they would either quit the ethanol garbage or go whole hog and offer us E100 so we could build and engine that could actually benefit from the ethanol.
As it is, propane is looking more and more appealing, but finding a place for a tank on a work pickup is hard.
If it sits longer, the gas boils out of the bowls and now I have to crank on it for awhile to get gas back in the bowls.
This garbage they sell us that gets passed off as gasoline is a bit irritating at times. I wish they would either quit the ethanol garbage or go whole hog and offer us E100 so we could build and engine that could actually benefit from the ethanol.
As it is, propane is looking more and more appealing, but finding a place for a tank on a work pickup is hard.
New User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: TN
My 1970 F-350 with 360ci has a Motorcraft D4PE-BGA Carb which hot soaks. I have to hold the gas pedal to the floor to hot start, starts normally when cold. I installed a manual choke and rebuilt the carb. The carb has a spacer under it that flows coolant thru it. I have read a phenolic carburetor spacer may help. Should I leave the coolant piece in place, or remove it to install the phenolic spacer? If I leave it, should the spacer go above or below the coolant manifold? I live in southern central Tennessee. Thanks, Doug
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 3,522
Likes: 11
From: Townsend, MT
My 1970 F-350 with 360ci has a Motorcraft D4PE-BGA Carb which hot soaks. I have to hold the gas pedal to the floor to hot start, starts normally when cold. I installed a manual choke and rebuilt the carb. The carb has a spacer under it that flows coolant thru it. I have read a phenolic carburetor spacer may help. Should I leave the coolant piece in place, or remove it to install the phenolic spacer? If I leave it, should the spacer go above or below the coolant manifold? I live in southern central Tennessee. Thanks, Doug
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,132
Likes: 218
From: W (BY GOD) V
My 1970 F-350 with 360ci has a Motorcraft D4PE-BGA Carb which hot soaks. I have to hold the gas pedal to the floor to hot start, starts normally when cold. I installed a manual choke and rebuilt the carb.
The carb has a spacer under it that flows coolant thru it. I have read a phenolic carburetor spacer may help. Should I leave the coolant piece in place, or remove it to install the phenolic spacer? If I leave it, should the spacer go above or below the coolant manifold? I live in southern central Tennessee.
Thanks, Doug
Have you actually experienced icing where you live?
New User
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
From: TN
No, I rarely run it in really cold weather
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,132
Likes: 218
From: W (BY GOD) V
Venturi icing is more as a result of high humidity rather than ambient temperature. The incoming air is cooled by the venturi effect and if heavy humidity, the icing may occur.
With that heated spacer (and blended fuel), you are actually hurting yourself (IMO). The carb has to be isolated from engine heat as well as possible.
With that heated spacer (and blended fuel), you are actually hurting yourself (IMO). The carb has to be isolated from engine heat as well as possible.
Thread Starter
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 41
Likes: 4
From: Lake Mathis
Alright, we truly lucked out with this storm, just a lot of wind and rain...nothing like what is happening north of us.
So, I have been looking for the phelonic spacer...looking at some older post regarding the same issue I found one that may work with my stock carb, it is from JEGS, Holly 17-72, has a part number of 519-5080. Would this work for my truck? Also from a previous post, some one mentioned picking one up at O Riely's part# 50529. It is a composite material, not the phelonic material. Thanks for any help or direction.
So, I have been looking for the phelonic spacer...looking at some older post regarding the same issue I found one that may work with my stock carb, it is from JEGS, Holly 17-72, has a part number of 519-5080. Would this work for my truck? Also from a previous post, some one mentioned picking one up at O Riely's part# 50529. It is a composite material, not the phelonic material. Thanks for any help or direction.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,132
Likes: 218
From: W (BY GOD) V
Either the phenolic or composite (thick) will work. I prefer the phenolic as gasoline will not eat it over time.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,182
Likes: 1
I'm in agreement on this one- its possible that after sitting for more than 10 minutes, enough fuel (from a too-high float level) has leaked into the motor that it's flooded. holding the pedal to the floor when cranking will tell you, as that will help start a flooded motor.
the motor is just burning the extra gas (ie- running rich) when you're driving.
the motor is just burning the extra gas (ie- running rich) when you're driving.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
Im also having this issue - and essentially drawing almost all the same conclusions as i am seeing here. I believe its either heat soak ( even with my 2" aluminum spacer ), or my floats are misadjusted........ even though i swear i set them both correctly when i rebuilt the carb.
Has any-one completely cured their problem with this yet?
Has any-one completely cured their problem with this yet?
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Float height bench setting is just to get close, the fuel height needs to be checked. Let it idle for a couple minutes on level ground. Shut the engine off. Pull the carb cover and take a look see at the fuel level in the bowl. Too low and it will lean out at highway speeds, too high and it will run on the rich side and may even flood. Always keep a fire extinguisher ready and available at the shop and on the road.
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Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 41
Likes: 4
From: Lake Mathis
I have a 1in spacer, adjusted my carb and timing. Still having the issue. Gonna rebuild my carb and relocate my coil from in front of the motor, it may be too close to the header. Gonna move it to the top of the motor. Check it out again, hope that helps.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
Float height bench setting is just to get close, the fuel height needs to be checked. Let it idle for a couple minutes on level ground. Shut the engine off. Pull the carb cover and take a look see at the fuel level in the bowl. Too low and it will lean out at highway speeds, too high and it will run on the rich side and may even flood. Always keep a fire extinguisher ready and available at the shop and on the road.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
There is - You disassemble the carburetor to check - And this is the same way to adjust. Its nowhere near as convenient as having sight glasses and the ability to adjust float levels with the carburetor installed and together.
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