Long start when engine is hot
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 41
Likes: 4
From: Lake Mathis
Long start when engine is hot
I took my old girl out today to run some errands. She is a 352 w/four speed. When I got back in her after about a 25 mile drive, she was a little long to start. When she is cold, fires right up. Short runs, less that 10 miles or so, haven't really had this problem. But this isn't the first time it has done this. What should I be looking at? She has a new Petronix ignition, coil, wires and plugs. Once its starts, she runs good.
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,021
Likes: 1,569
From: Seattle
Do you have a carb spacer between the carb and the intake manifold? If not - it might be boiling the fuel out of the carb when it gets really warmed up. I noticed you live in Texas. This problem occurs more often when it is super hot out or in hot climates.
You run shorter distances and it doesn't get quite hot enough to do it, but once it passes a threshold and you stop the fuel boils out of the carb and to get it restarted you have to crank it enough to refill the float bowl and passages to get it going again.
Just a hunch but let us know if that might be it. A phenolic or aluminum spacer can sometimes be all that is needed to solve such a problem.
Chad
.
You run shorter distances and it doesn't get quite hot enough to do it, but once it passes a threshold and you stop the fuel boils out of the carb and to get it restarted you have to crank it enough to refill the float bowl and passages to get it going again.
Just a hunch but let us know if that might be it. A phenolic or aluminum spacer can sometimes be all that is needed to solve such a problem.
Chad
.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,132
Likes: 217
From: W (BY GOD) V
Blended Fuel Gasoline and it's inherent problems with an open to atmosphere and carbureted system.
ADDENDUM (Fr.)- (College Word For 2nd Thought)
If all mechanical systems are performing correctly.
ADDENDUM (Fr.)- (College Word For 2nd Thought)
If all mechanical systems are performing correctly.
Last edited by KULTULZ; Aug 20, 2017 at 10:44 AM. Reason: ADDENDUM
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 41
Likes: 4
From: Lake Mathis
When the truck is cold, two pumps of the pedal, no choke and she fires right up. When it is hot, and is having the issue starting, it turns over normally, no difference from hot to cold as far as that goes. Just doesn't seem to want to fire and start. I will look into the spacer, see if maybe that works.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Ok, that's what I figured. Maybe pull a plug under that condition see if they are fouled or wet with fuel.
"Cold" being a relative term. You're in Texas? Even so with just a couple pumps and no choke required it sure sounds like fuel mixture is pig rich. What do the plugs look like right now? Maybe pull a couple and post pics.
"Cold" being a relative term. You're in Texas? Even so with just a couple pumps and no choke required it sure sounds like fuel mixture is pig rich. What do the plugs look like right now? Maybe pull a couple and post pics.
Lead Gopher
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 10,021
Likes: 1,569
From: Seattle
When the truck is cold, two pumps of the pedal, no choke and she fires right up. When it is hot, and is having the issue starting, it turns over normally, no difference from hot to cold as far as that goes. Just doesn't seem to want to fire and start. I will look into the spacer, see if maybe that works.
If fuel still squirts then that is not it.
Chad
.
Trending Topics
New User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
poor hot start
I had the same problem with my 65 when I installed a Pertronix coil. Started fine cold but not so fine when hot. I finally figured out that the coil needs 12 volts which it does not get if you use the original wire to the stock coil. The stock coil wants less voltage than the Pertronix. Run a new wire with 12 volts to the coil and I bet the problem will resolve itself. Dave.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 698
I'm having similar problems with my 65. On a cold start, 1 pump of the throttle, starts right up every time. After driving and turning engine off, if I restart within 10 minutes, again, no problem starting. However, if I wait longer than 10 minutes, I have to crank and crank to get it running again. If the fuel is boiling out, then why would it start so easily when cold? It's not like the fuel is magically making its way back to the carb just by cooling down. I've added an aluminum carb spacer and there's no difference. Ignition is stock. Have only been running it since May, so not sure if the cooler weather will have any affect.
Based on this thread, I've got a few more things I should check. Starting to get annoying though.
Based on this thread, I've got a few more things I should check. Starting to get annoying though.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
I'd pull a plug and look to see evidence of flooding?
It might be a little exaggeration to say this but if the motor starts easily (no choke, no pumping) when cold it's running rich and may run into problems when warmed up. Also check wet fuel height and idle screw adjustment, choke pull off adj. etc.
It might be a little exaggeration to say this but if the motor starts easily (no choke, no pumping) when cold it's running rich and may run into problems when warmed up. Also check wet fuel height and idle screw adjustment, choke pull off adj. etc.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,132
Likes: 217
From: W (BY GOD) V
I'm having similar problems with my 65.
On a cold start, 1 pump of the throttle, starts right up every time. After driving and turning engine off, if I restart within 10 minutes, again, no problem starting.
However, if I wait longer than 10 minutes, I have to crank and crank to get it running again. If the fuel is boiling out, then why would it start so easily when cold? It's not like the fuel is magically making its way back to the carb just by cooling down.
I've added an aluminum carb spacer and there's no difference. Ignition is stock. Have only been running it since May, so not sure if the cooler weather will have any affect.
Based on this thread, I've got a few more things I should check. Starting to get annoying though.
Based on this thread, I've got a few more things I should check. Starting to get annoying though.
Six or eight?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 698
I'd pull a plug and look to see evidence of flooding?
It might be a little exaggeration to say this but if the motor starts easily (no choke, no pumping) when cold it's running rich and may run into problems when warmed up. Also check wet fuel height and idle screw adjustment, choke pull off adj. etc.
It might be a little exaggeration to say this but if the motor starts easily (no choke, no pumping) when cold it's running rich and may run into problems when warmed up. Also check wet fuel height and idle screw adjustment, choke pull off adj. etc.
Makes sense. I'm gonna recheck the carb adjustments. Also, holding pedal to the floor while cranking should help by allowing more air into the mix if flooding is the problem.
Gotten too used to fuel injected engines that I've forgotten half the crap I used to know.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 1,255
Likes: 698
It may be that the fuel does percolate w/ heat soak or evaporate (with open fuel bowl vent) during a long shut-off period and it may be that you have one hell of a good mechanical pump that either does not allow quick bleed-down or refills the carb bowl quickly. The fuel in the bowl may percolate but not get to the stage where it is forced out of the bowl or vaporizes out of the fuel bowl vent. Is your EVAP connected and/or functioning?
An aluminum spacer will not stop heat transfer. It has to be phenolic or composite,
Six or eight?
An aluminum spacer will not stop heat transfer. It has to be phenolic or composite,
Six or eight?
More things to consider. Thanks.
To answer your questions though
6 or 8? 8-390
EVAP? On a '65
