When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So now that I have all this info at my fingertips, what gauges should I have on my primary display and where do I find the normal / abnormal numbers to set alarms?
So now that I have all this info at my fingertips, what gauges should I have on my primary display and where do I find the normal / abnormal numbers to set alarms?
I am now troubleshooting by attempting to compare MAP, EBP and BARO pressures but my TorquePro app only has MAP pressure. I tried making custom PIDs for the other two and they are not reading anything. I need to figure out how to get these two readings to show up in TorquePro. I copied parameters from this forum on another thread and they did not work.
I am now troubleshooting by attempting to compare MAP, EBP and BARO pressures but my TorquePro app only has MAP pressure. I tried making custom PIDs for the other two and they are not reading anything. I need to figure out how to get these two readings to show up in TorquePro. I copied parameters from this forum on another thread and they did not work.
When you 1st set up Torque, did you 1st load the Ford Specific PIDs from the Torque set-up menus? That is where they are. If you load them now, they will overwrite anything custom you've created, but personally that is what I would do. If you need more help just ask...
Posted in his other thread ............... An 03 with the inferred EBP flash (if he has that flash) will not have EBP available since the PCM doesn't use it.
Posted in his other thread ............... An 03 with the inferred EBP flash (if he has that flash) will not have EBP available since the PCM doesn't use it.
Good catch Mark, but he should have Baro available...?
I believe so. I seem to recall some past threads on problems w/ the Baro reading, but can't remember the content, issue, or resolution.
I pulled up all gauges relating to Barometric pressure and none of them read anything with KOEO or KOER. I just took the truck for a spin and she’s still spitting and surging but I ran under load up to 3500rpm or so and developed a max of 22psi boost. I watched MAP pressure and it got up to 19-20psi as well. I zip tied the fuel pressure gauge to my windshield wiper so I could watch it and FP never got below 55psi under load. I ran diagnostics again and now the only constant code is Crank Sensor so I’m going to pull the PCM plug and Ohm out the pins bismic suggested I test. I just got a delivery notification for my new CKP sensor so I guess I’m about to go work on that!
I’m pretty sure I’ve got injector issues since I had several Contribution Balance and Injector Voltage codes. I spoke with Ed from FICMRepair and he said my HPOP/ICP will not show true pressures since I have Gearhead tunes by Matt loaded right now (SRL+). If I want true ICP I can go back to stock and see them.
If a bad baro is suspected, it can be disconnected and the PCM will use a MAP reading at idle rpm in its place.
Even w/ an inferred strategy for the EBP, if the sensor is shorting out, it can cause problems (even when the PCM doesn't use it). It can also be disconnected.
Mac - did I misunderstand or do you still have some wiring issues with the current VGT solenoid?
If a bad baro is suspected, it can be disconnected and the PCM will use a MAP reading at idle rpm in its place.
Even w/ an inferred strategy for the EBP, if the sensor is shorting out, it can cause problems (even when the PCM doesn't use it). It can also be disconnected.
Mac - did I misunderstand or do you still have some wiring issues with the current VGT solenoid?
I will try disconnecting the EBP and BARO sensor and see how that goes.
When I tried removing the VGT solenoid to clean it the first section is the only part that came out, the rest of the stem stayed in the turbo so I just pushed it back in and seated it with a few light taps of a deadblow hammer and a short wooden broom handle. It popped back in fine. I mentioned a few posts back that the VGT solenoid plug was cracked bad enough that the pigtail would not stay in so I zip tied and used heat tape to hold the connector in before I reinstalled it. I just wanted to test it out and so far I have had no boost codes and VGT readings are fine.
I’m ordering a Garrett stage 1 turbo and 155 30 injectors from Ed at FICMRepair so I can keep using my OEM fuel pump and get some more power for my 35” tires I’m getting soon. Also getting the new engine and fuel injector harness and a fuel pump rebuild kit from Ed too.