When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The fuel pressure regulator is very easy to install just two allen head bolts holding it in place. pull the old one off and put the new on, hook your guage up and set the pressure and your done. I am interested in the resistor also.
I've replaced the FPR with a stock unit once before, that's no prob, I'm interested in the resistor thing, although I'll probably try the adjustable FPR also.
Hi guys, still working on the header install, had to wait for the egr pipe to come in from ford, (screwed it up trying to get it off ) it happens some times.
My only words of wisdom so far it clean the the threads in the bolt holes before you put the header in place, (the new bolts jambed up half way down in the threads before I cleaned them).
As for the resistor in the act circuit, I posted a couple of replys on this topic on the second page of this thread but if you have any questions after reading them I will see if I can help.
It realy enhances all the mods done to the engine.
Kevinr250 do you have the part# handy for the 0-60 psi autometer guage?. I can only find the 0-100 psi guage in the catalog, I did find a remote electric fuel pressure guage with sending unit 0-100 psi (great for in cab use, no fuel enters the cab) but they want $300.00 for the set up.
Regards, Domenico....
Ok guys, whats the trick to get out the broken bolts from the head. So far just one on the drivers side rear. I'm finally getting started on mine to put the headers on.
Start by thinking positive (I can get this bolt out) a little luck helps also, Rusvd what type of equipment have you got acess to?, torches, a mig welder, plasma cuttter good drill bits. it all makes a diferance.
The one thing I like to avoid is e-z out extracters, dont get me wrong in some aplications they do work, but a broken bolt in a head not for me.
The best method I found is a mig welder if you have access, it's a bit of an art but it does work well.
Let me know what you have for equipment, I work in the automotive industry and have extracted more than my fair share of broken bolts, (usally broken by the other guys in the shop)
Regards, Domenico....
Looking at Summitracing.com check the Holley FPR listed for the 86-94 5.0L p/n HLY-512-500-1. Does this one fit our application, it's on $55 instead of $110 for the BBK. Mind you it doesn't have the port for a gauge but if your setting you PSI you can simply take it from the fuel rail per std mtce practices.
Looking at the engine compartment did you guys remove the inner fender wells for access? Looks like it would make the job that much easier.
I'm going with the Thorleys, 4-2-1 with a Y pipe and ceramic coated for under $800, can you beat that?
Hi Domenico, we have lots of tools here, i work at a body shop, but no plasma cutter. I will have the left manifold off tonight then i will know how much of the broken bolt is exposed if any. And yes i WILL get this bolt out, thanks to all the great help here on the forum.
460kirk, There are two types of FPR for 90's Ford V8's. One has two bolts that hold it on from the sides and the other has three bolts that attatch from the bottom, you most likely have the two bolt one, this is the one I have. It makes it easier to adjust with a guage right next to it, but if you can live without it, then definitly save the money. The BBK FPR is a nice though and fit great. As for your headers I think that that price is expensive. I got my ceramic coated L&L headers for $450 and they are very high quality. They don't come with the Y-pipe but that is no big deal if you plan on redoing the rest of the exhaust like I did. Hope this helps some more.
I installed the $1000 JBA ceramic coated headers on my 1988 F-350 dually. Six of the stock stainless steel header studs broke off in the heads and I pulled the motor and drilled them out then tap/cleaned the threads. Drilling the stainless steel took alot of patience, a Drill Doctor, and three good drill bits. With the Jba headers bolted on with grade 8 bolts, checked for tightness at each oil change, I have had no leaks and have enjoyed a power increase. I don't think anyone should try to remove manifolds from a 460 if it is your only ride and you need to get to work in the morning. Don't mess with it untill you have time to do it right.
Broken bolt is out. Now the fun part putting the headers on.
This method might work for somebody else with a broken bolt, keep in mind that the bolt was broken off below the surface level.
1.) lay a washer on the surface so that you can see the broken bolt through the hole in the washer.
2.) Next (mig) weld the center of the washer to the bolt.
3.)Then weld a large nut to the washer.
4.) Get your socket and take the bolt off.
Works great.
Kevinfr250, did you buy your headers direct from L&L? They are showing a price of 550+ for their headers plus 220 for the y-pipe, this brings the total to more than the price for the Thorleys and pretty close to the Banks price. I found the Thorleys for 663.00 that includes the y-pipe. Plus, where I found them is local to me so there would be no shipping.
Not sure if you saw my thread, but you might have some info that I need. Does L&L have headers for EFI`s & late models 460`s ? .
Reason I ask is I`m wondering if the EFI & late model carb 460s have the same exhaust port/bolt pattern as the /91 460`s?