I am not sure how much longer the banks one's could be. My Gibson one's are definietly NOT shorty style. They go all the way back and come together in a very large collecter about 6" before the cat. The drivers side one even wraps under the oil pan and comes over to the the cat side. That one was kinda fun to manuever into position! I am still 100% satisfied with mine. They still even look great (when not covered in mud) they have a gunmetal blue hue to them now. Only $300 difference? Are you sure? When I looked into the Banks one's they said they did not like to separate components out of thier kits, but quoted me like $1700 for just the headers out of thier $2500 stinger kit.

 

When I was looking into headers about a year ago, Banks told me around $1,000 for the headers alone. I paid around $450 for my L & L headers which are ceramic coated and long tube design. I don't think that you could go wrong with the L & L's , Gibsons, or the Banks. If you have the money go with the Banks because they are stainless steel. The L&L's are a 4 into 1 design while the other two are tri-y design i think. Hope this helps some more.

 

Are you guys sure about your dollar amounts? Banks quoted me $1700 for and entire stinger system and $500 for just the headers for my truck. Makes me wonder if the slaesmen are building a little bonus into their sales.

 

That is interesting about the price. I just called Banks up and was quoted $1,000 for my truck, maybe cheaper if you don't order directly from Banks.

 

I guess I should clear up some of the confusion here It's probanbly my fualt I was speaking in canadian funds (a us doller cost us about $1.40 depending on exchange rate). A buddy of mine works at a custom truck accessories place they just got banks as one of there supliers he priced out gibsons and banks headers, I thought the prices were kind of cheap also and questioned him about u.s or canadian funds. He asured me it was canadian funds (being a good freind I have to make sure, I didn't him to get stuck with the screw up wich means I would pay the difference). I did call a supplier in calgary last week they quoted me $1650.00 canadian plus shipping Calgary to Vancouver (performance parts I believe was the name of the place) my buddy quoted me $1370.00 mabey I should just go for it and quit all this procrastinating. So all you guy's that have headers was it money well spent regardless of brands?: gibsons, L&L, banks, regards, Domenico.....

 

The money that I spent on my L&L's was worth every penny. The truck runs much better.

 

Absolutely worth it. Time and money very well spent. Get a flowmaster 50 series SIDO to go with it, you'll love the sound.

 

Finaly went out and did it yesterday, layed down the cash and ordered the banks headers and y pipe kit. So now is the gruelling 2 - 3 week wait. With the mods all you guys have done has anyone played with fuel pressure to compensate for better volumetric efficiency. I bounced mine up to 45 psi koer no vacuum to the regulator (stock was 41 psi) sure would like to compare specs. with sombody to verify I'm on the right track. regards.. Domenico....

 

I haven't adjusted mine yet, still need an adjusting regulator. Where did you get yours at and what brand is it.

 

I got a bbk fuel pressure regulator, nice unit for the money. It has a 1/8 pipe thread port to mount a permenant 1 1/2" fuel pressure guage ( I ordered my guage last weak hasn't arrived yet). check out your regulator they only made 2 different ones 2 bolt and 3 bolt (mine is a 3 bolt) the part # is 1707 fuel pressure guage is #1617, the aplication is for 4.6/5.0 1994 to 1998 no 7.5 listing but it does work. I went through all the hoops to find out. The other thing is installing a resistor in line on the air charge tempature sensor I'm at 14 k ohms with a variable resistor. It's hard to tune with out a dyno so I usually add 2 k ohms per loaded highway trip and try it. I'm sure I will set the check engine light eventually so I thought I would boost the fuel pressure to help out. If you get a chance it would be interesting to see what your stock fuel pressure is at (39-45psi is spec) I'm just curioues I'm leaving on a 13 hour fully loaded trip next weak and want it all dialed in for the trip (good luck eh) I guess we'll call it a test and tune trip... regards Domenico...

 

Thanks for the info. I have been debating whether to get one or not but I think it will be worth it as the truck is running a little lean. What does the resistor do to the air charge temp sensor? Thanks again.

 

The whole idea behind the resistor is to fool the speed density system into adding more fuel. The system is dialed in to a grid format x-amount of vacuum(map sensor) x-amount of rpm (tach input) x-amount of tps voltage, x-voltage of ambient air temp(air charge sensor) = pre determined injector pulse width (very simplified explination) One of the simple things to change is ambient air temp (ecu can't verify ambient air tempature so the air charge temp is the truth) 5 volts is put through the thermister (resistance increases with colder tempature) add a resistor the ecu richens the mixture thinking it's colder out than actualy true thus more fuel and no check engine light. The same is true for the fuel pressure regulator, ecu is programmed with a set fuel pressure spec. Has no idea if it changes, increase fuel pressure same injector pulse width = more fuel. The fine tuning device is the o2 sensor, ecu watches cross counts (cycles past the .5 volt mark) slow respone (how frequent it crosses .5 volt mark) If it sees a problem it will flag it (check engine light) thats why you can do only so many mods before you end up with the dreaded check engine light (sorry I'm starting to ramble) just in case I missed somthing please feel free to correct or fill in the blanks. The bottom line is to lean = check engine light . To rich= check engine light. You have to keep the fuel supply within the o2 sensor perameter. The best method is lab scope tied into the o2 sensor and moniter live voltages on a dyno (wouldn't that be nice "ha ha") So we are back to the big hills fully loaded playing with fuel pressure and air charge temp. resistance. Hope I didn't confuse you let me know if you got lost in all that. P.S. sure would like to know what you stock fuel pressure is at pre 92 was at 39psi and post 92 41psi? regards Domenico....

 

I work in the welding industry and heat is our enemy. When our cables get too hot, resistance increases, and more of our welders power is lost overcoming the increased resistance. After rambling on, I guess I am trying to say that an increase in resistance means hotter temps. So wouldn't that make you want to reduce the amount of resistance in your air charge temp sensor? Thats why superconductors run at extreme cold temps, to minimize resistance. So by ADDING resistance, aren't you fooling your ECU into thinking it's hotter outside, thus adding less fuel? Any Electrical engineers out there wanna comment?

 

thanks Domenico for the info. I think I am going to order the fuel pressure regulator and guage. Where did you mount your guage and was there any other things I should know before I change it. Also the pressure is taken with the engine off and the key on right? Thanks again.

Kevin

 

Here is a photo of my homemade FIPK system on my `92, I also added the adj. fuel regulator and gauge: