Sorry about that guys, I started rambling on and forgot to thank you all for the info on the banks headers metal composition, I did some reserch also and found the same info. I was told that if the headers wre made of 100% stainles they would be prone to cracking with extreme tempature changes. And for all those that are interested the headers look of the finest quality, perfect welds, kink free bends and the flanges just blew me away 5/8 of an inch thick! regards, Domenico.....

 

New user here - bear with me. I *just* finished putting the Banks headers on my '94 460, and although everything's been covered above, I'll throw in my info, as I consulted these boards a LOT before the purchase and during the installation. (Great resource! THANKS.) First, I chose Banks because I already had their cat-back system and was very happy with the quality. I verified their claims to a "T" at the dragstrip and with a G-Tech, so I had confidence they're not blowing smoke in their ads. Second, Banks WILL barter. I had been trading emails back and forth with them for 5 months (I wasn't in a big hurry) and got the price down $300!! (Started at $1400, got 'em for $1080.) Still no bargain, but 300 is nothing to sneeze at. Broke 2 studs during removal. I had been soaking everything with JB and "rust eater" penetrant for 3 days beforehand. Funny thing - I was feeling crazy and used an impact wrench and it worked great. The two I broke I couldn't reach with the impact and was wrenching by hand!?! Anyhow, I drilled through the broken bolts, sprayed penetrant, heated till dull red, used a fluted e-z out, used a spiral e-z out etc, etc. Nothing worked (short of welding something on which I don't have the resources.) Ended up just drilling right through with a 5/8" bit and retapping the holes. Worked great, and I wish I would have just done that in the first place. (Get a right angle drill, don't drill too deep, use a cobalt bit and be patient!) Moral of the story: Only have about 50 miles post install, but I'm quite happy. Better, but subdued, sound (I like this.) Biggest difference is midrange torque. At 60 mph (approx 1300 rpm) I give it about 1/4 throttle and it just pops to 75 like nothing. $1100 happy, well maybe that's pushing it, but I'll answer after the weather dries and I give it some runs with the G-tech. Now, anybody here have experience with the BBK throttle body and/or Superchips? (Probably a different thread, I'll keep looking.) Thanks for all the info!!!

 

I have had the Banks headers and exhaust on for about 5mos. I like the sound. the typical "header" rattle is just barely noticeable, and the exhaust note is nice. I didn't notice any mileage increase but that could be because it is so fun to have that extra hp under your foot it is hard not to use it. The most impressive change for me was an increase in cruising mph while towing my boat. Before Banks I could maintain 70 mph in overdrive on level flat land. I could always come out of overdrive and get back to 75 but it was a constant struggle to maintain anything more than 70. After Banks I can maintain 82 mph in overdrive on the same stretch of road with the same load. Not that anyone should or want to tow that fast, I just wanted to see if the system really made a difference. I also noticed that my AC seemed to be colder....I don't know how...maybe it was all in my brain! I agree that their product is expensive, as we are paying for a name and lots or R&D, however they have those awesome thick flanges, and the stuff works! I have not had to retorque anything. A word to the wise use good exhaust hangers as the 3.5" exhaust is heavy and gets mighty hot.
theres my .02

97 F250 crewcab shortbed 460 e4od 4x4 Banks powerpack, jacobs ignition, amsoil, & Banks transcommand on order!

TH

 

Correction to my previous post - If you have to re-drill and tap your exhaust manifold bolt holes, use a 5/16" drill. I said 5/8" in my post - that's way too big! The actual exhaust manifold bolts are 3/8"-16 threads per inch.

 

A friend of mine has done two header installs on 460 engines and both times the rear mainfold bolt has broken off. Before he starts the third install, he is wondering if this is a chronic problem and if there is a solution to breaking this particular bolt off.

 

I think that it is a common problem with 460's, The rear passenger side bolt on my truck broke when putting the headers on too. Mine was broken off before we even started to pull the manifolds off.

 

Dom, Jet Hot told me $176.00 for shorty headers. Im guessing that 250 should cover full size headers. Check them out @ jethot.com

Kevin

 

I've got the Doug Thorley tri-y headers and am VERY happy with them. They are mated to an aftermarket CAT, 3" mandrel bent exhaust with a Flowmaster muffler. I also have the Banks air intake system. My buddy has the same year truck as mine, same gears, tranny, everything, and he went with the Banks system, headers and all. The trucks run neck and neck, loaded or not, whether it be level ground, or our typical Idaho mountain hiways. Todd thinks mine has a slight advantage, but I think they are so close, that I can't really tell. Mine might have slightly more on the bottom end, but not enough to shake a stick at. Either way, they are both good systems, and neither one of us has had any problems what so ever. MUCH better then stock. Now, if only someone made a chip for these that trully made a difference when towing heavier loads......
I haven't tried the adjustable fuel pressure regulator yet, maybe in the future if you guys get that procedure perfected, and there are noticable gains........

 

I just did the fuel pressure regulator and it did prodice noticable gains. My truck was running lean after the headers and duals, The regulator fixed the leaness and gave it more power that I can feel. It is a BBK regularor.

 

What fuel pressure are you running?

 

41 psi right now, 39 is stock. The plugs have the right color to them now. and the truck runs better. I will try messing around with the pressure a little when I have time and the roads are dry.

 

Finaly started the header install tonight, got the y pipe and both manifolds off AND NO BROKEN BOLTS!! . Only 2 minor casualties I bent up the spark plug heat sheild and the egr pipe to manifold adapter came apart, but I can live with that.
My secret is I took the bone head approach, penatraiting oil, inpact gun and my snap-on impact swivel set and may the force be with me.
It did work, mind you the back studs I had to work back and forth a few times. My questions at this point are gaskets yes or no and the heat sheilds? do I install the or leave them out, banks recomends no gaskets and heat sheilds up to the installer?
Zamboni250 thanks for the link, I think I wiil leave them as they are and take my chances, as for fuel pressure I boosted mine up to 44psi plus the 15 ohm resistor in the air charge sesnor circuit lots of power gain but fuel economy stayed the same, have not had it on the four gas analyser at work yet but after the header install, adjustments I,m sure are due.
Kevinr250 I was checking out your pics you fuel pressure guage does it read 0-60 or 0-100 psi, the bbk one reads 0-60 but they want $80.00 for it, the other option if some one makes it is fuel pressure guage with a sendining unit so it ca be mounted in the cab. I will do some diging on that. Regards, Domenico....

 

My guage is an Autometer guage, it reads to 60psi. I got it from summit for $30. I was also thinking about a guage in the cab, but decided that I didn't want a fuel line in the cab.

 

Kevin250, domenico, towintoys, ya'll got me intrigued about the fuel pressure mod. Is there a forum talking about this? how do you plumb it? really no decrease in MPG? help... i'm like a kid in candy store thinking about all that untapped power!

Therdt




'97 E4od 460 crew cab short bed 4x4, banks powerpack, Transcommand, Jacobs ignition

 

Domenico - Can you detail the resistor installation for me, and describe exactly what it does. If I do the AFPR mod, how much added benefit will it be to add the resistor also? Thanks!