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Help with charcoal canister

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Old Aug 5, 2017 | 06:49 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by FadedF350
So do you think I should I leave it connect or should I find a way to fix this?
Leave it connected, the pump is noisy with the hoses removed.

Or remove your pump, I'm guessing you're not being smog tested...

That's your choice for sure if you want to put everything back like it was, Sandy would be happy to help you with that......

My priority would be, like the Irishman said, fix the fumes coming from the fuel tank/s. you have 1 or 2 tanks?
 
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Old Aug 5, 2017 | 06:53 PM
  #62  
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The top is capped the bottom is connected.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2017 | 06:57 PM
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I saw a few other vacuum lines in your photo's.

Make sure they are all connected, and not leaking. Good time to replace them.

I saw a few check valves or delay devices attached, they only go one way, photograph them before you disconnect them ever.... (one color on one side, white one the other)
 
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Old Aug 5, 2017 | 06:59 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by FadedF350
The top is capped the bottom is connected.
PCV? Yeah, my eyes are only so good. BTW - you can get a PCV Valve with just 1 hose connection.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2017 | 07:02 PM
  #65  
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I have 2 tanks and will be installing the vapor can on Monday. My trucks are registered in Yuma AZ. They don't require smog, but at the end of the month I'm moving to Las Vegas NV. Supposedly they are pretty strict.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2017 | 07:09 PM
  #66  
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Ok, I was Happy to stop in for the day, don’t make me come back and slap you around again. Sandy seems to look after his Texan brethren.

I’ll draw a picture, whilst you lads get back to your Charcoal Canister project. (highly recommended)

There is nothing to do with your CANP valve (strap it down) for now until you get the canister installed.

(You can unplug it, put it up on your fireplace mantel for a while as a conversation piece.) Oh, you’re in Texas, do you have fireplaces in Texas?
 
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Old Aug 5, 2017 | 07:16 PM
  #67  
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������ you got me there thank you for all the help I now know a something a little more about this demon truck.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2017 | 08:09 PM
  #68  
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On the very bottom of the drawing, the; "Line to Intake manifold vacuum"

This line goes to your coffee can, Solenoid side, the line with the "T" in it.

So the complete connection is from the coffee can to the bottom connection on the EGR-Solenoid, DG - Dark Green Wire. (using the vacuum line with the "T" in it.

The top port on the EGR Solenoid Valve goes to the EGR-Valve.

(you can hook these two up now, it won't cause a vacuum leak,,,,yet)


 
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Old Aug 5, 2017 | 08:28 PM
  #69  
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OK so the vacuum side with the T was in the right are just not the right hole I can work with that.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2017 | 08:39 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by FadedF350
OK so the vacuum side with the T was in the right are just not the right hole I can work with that.
And the other side of the can will go to the closest vacuum tree. (But not until you decide to re-connect the EGR-Valve)
 

Last edited by vjsimone; Aug 5, 2017 at 08:42 PM. Reason: Adding Text
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Old Aug 5, 2017 | 08:41 PM
  #71  
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Rainy day project;

Take the coffee can out, look it over good for rust or leaks.
Blow in both sides to see if there is a built-in check valve.
Then plug one hole, blow smoke in the other hole, check for leaks, swap the plug, blow smoke thru the other hole, in the can, check for leaks.

(There are other ways, like, hold the can under water, I want to see the video)

Paint can, re-install.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2017 | 08:44 PM
  #72  
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No longer to the TAB or is it okay to still push through?

Like how sandy did his up, I would really like to get there some day.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2017 | 08:56 PM
  #73  
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Yeah, I have not seen a photo of his engine for a long while, man it looked good back then, and looks great now....

Yeah, your TAB Yoke is gone b'y... so no reason to do anything to that Solenoid unless you buy that $125 device.

I would cap off the two (or any) ports not used, somehow, to keep them clean for future use.

Any chance you have a Calibration Code for your Truck? (usually a sticker on the Passenger side valve cover)

Air Management Valve fits 1988-1991 Ford Bronco,E-150 Econoline Club Wagon,F-150 | eBay
 
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Old Aug 5, 2017 | 09:08 PM
  #74  
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No doubt, his engine is what I strive to eventually get mine to look like.

If I were to buy this item what would be the benefit of any?
 
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Old Aug 5, 2017 | 09:10 PM
  #75  
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$125 doesn't seem too far out there to me to make an engine work properly.
 
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