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I don't like greasable joints for a couple of reasons. One, the grease channels make the joint weaker. Two, when you grease them, force always attacks the weakest point. The grease tends to flow out only one cap. It becomes impossible to properly grease the other 3. And finally, non-greasable joints are designed to not have to be greased so you can generally throw them on there and not worry about them for 100k or so.
This was from awhile back. It got buried in my emails. The numbers are for Spicer u joints. Is it possible for anyone to verify that I have the correct part numbers for the U joints in the drive shaft? Thanks.
Good. Does Spicer also make a carrier bearing? The rubber on mine is a little wopped out. I figure I might as well replace all three u joints and the bearing. Hopefully not anything in the rear end. I've been hearing horror stories about bad driveshaft parts cracking transmissions. So the front shaft before the bearing is the other part number then?
211359X for the carrier bearing from the parts list (at least for the 2003).
The 5-1410X is for both or all three u-joints on the rear driveshaft between the transfer case and rear differential (depending on your wheelbase). The 5-1350X is for the three u-joints on the front driveshaft forward of the the transfer case. For the front axles you need two more 5-1350X (if you have a Dana 50) or two SPL55-3X (if you have a Dana 60).
211359X for the carrier bearing from the parts list (at least for the 2003).
The 5-1410X is for both or all three u-joints on the rear driveshaft between the transfer case and rear differential (depending on your wheelbase). The 5-1350X is for the three u-joints on the front driveshaft forward of the the transfer case. For the front axles you need two more 5-1350X (if you have a Dana 50) or two SPL55-3X (if you have a Dana 60).
Thank you! I was getting confused with everything online. Right now I'm just doing driveshaft but when I fix the four wheel drive I'll do the rest. I'd imagine it's the same. It's an '00 crew cab short bed auto. I'll get to finding parts. Thank you again!
I'll throw in support for grease-able u-joints. Technically they make not be as strong, but I've never had one fail on me. I do not do off road craziness, but I do a fair amount of plowing. I've exploded a driveshaft plowing, but the (grease-able) u-joint was still in perfect shape. IMHO any added grease is better than none.
So when I'm on a hill in the driveway and I put the truck in park sometimes it acts like it doesn't quite lock and then rocks and locks into park with a clunk noise. A couple weeks it started acting like the neutral safety switch was going bad because I had to put in in neutral to start. Bosses truck is the same way. Are the two issues related or does it go back to U joints?
Check the two bolts on back of the shift tube that connects it to the shift cable. They can came loose and prevent the transmission from going into park completely.
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