sqeual from drive shaft
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sqeual from drive shaft
anyone had any issues with your drive shaft squealing at low speeds? ive looked for "zerk" fittings to lube it but i didnt see any. sprayed some wd-40 on it, quit for a while but came back. i inspected the joints and i can see some bright metal spots where they mate up indicating some rubbing. is there anything i can do to fix this? or do i need to get new joints and rebuild the shaft? to clarify the bright spots are on the ball joints.
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inspect the slip yoke on drive shaft. if the slip yoke doesn't look worn, then grease the slip yoke when the drive shaft is back on truck.
Check the pinon seal on rear pinon yoke (axle) and check the rear out put seal on transmission /or transfercase. If leaking, this would be the time to replace seal.
Let us know if you plan on replacing any of these seals or if the slip yoke is wobble and worn.
Check the pinon seal on rear pinon yoke (axle) and check the rear out put seal on transmission /or transfercase. If leaking, this would be the time to replace seal.
Let us know if you plan on replacing any of these seals or if the slip yoke is wobble and worn.
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i think it might be time to replace the pinion seal, looks like there has been leakage over time. that would call for new differential fluid and all that. should i get some kind of flush for it also?
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Will need to remove the third member to change fluid.
Or change out with a hand siphon pump.
If the yoke on third member is groove. use some fine grit sand paper and smooth out the grooves in the rotation of the drive shaft spin.
Before removing nut on yoke on third member.
Mark with a chisel or punch the top of pinon shaft and the big nut clearly. You don't want to mess with the bearing preload of the pinon shaft. This way when you reinstall the yoke, washer, and big nut, you tighten to the pre stamped marks.
Or change out with a hand siphon pump.
If the yoke on third member is groove. use some fine grit sand paper and smooth out the grooves in the rotation of the drive shaft spin.
Before removing nut on yoke on third member.
Mark with a chisel or punch the top of pinon shaft and the big nut clearly. You don't want to mess with the bearing preload of the pinon shaft. This way when you reinstall the yoke, washer, and big nut, you tighten to the pre stamped marks.
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From: Revelstoke B.C.
Originally Posted by 1975Ford
Will need to remove the third member to change fluid.
Or change out with a hand siphon pump.
If the yoke on third member is groove. use some fine grit sand paper and smooth out the grooves in the rotation of the drive shaft spin.
Or change out with a hand siphon pump.
If the yoke on third member is groove. use some fine grit sand paper and smooth out the grooves in the rotation of the drive shaft spin.
Before removing nut on yoke on third member.
Mark with a chisel or punch the top of pinon shaft and the big nut clearly. You don't want to mess with the bearing preload of the pinon shaft. This way when you reinstall the yoke, washer, and big nut, you tighten to the pre stamped marks.
Mark with a chisel or punch the top of pinon shaft and the big nut clearly. You don't want to mess with the bearing preload of the pinon shaft. This way when you reinstall the yoke, washer, and big nut, you tighten to the pre stamped marks.
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This might work, and yes it is in regards to the pinion seal. Mark the nut and shaft. Break the nut free and COUNT the total number of threads as you remove it. When you replace the seal, tighten the exact same number of threads, and line up the marks.
Reason for being careful? There is a "Crush Sleeve" that you do not want to damage, and this does involve bearing preload and such. PoopBoys did the same type job on an older astro I used to drive for work---but they hand-fisted it using an air impact gun to remove and install. HUGE MISTAKE!!! Within 100 miles the rear bearing set was totally destroyed! ($650.00 repair bill) If they had been more careful, and use common sense? Should have been a very easy job.
S-
Reason for being careful? There is a "Crush Sleeve" that you do not want to damage, and this does involve bearing preload and such. PoopBoys did the same type job on an older astro I used to drive for work---but they hand-fisted it using an air impact gun to remove and install. HUGE MISTAKE!!! Within 100 miles the rear bearing set was totally destroyed! ($650.00 repair bill) If they had been more careful, and use common sense? Should have been a very easy job.
S-
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in the middle of replacing the ujoints and good call on them too, the rear ones fell apart as soon as i took the clamps off.
anyway, cant seem to get them compressed enough to get the ring clips in all the way. got one side in but the other needs to go in about what looks to be 1/64th of an inch or less. any ideas?
anyway, cant seem to get them compressed enough to get the ring clips in all the way. got one side in but the other needs to go in about what looks to be 1/64th of an inch or less. any ideas?
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The method I used to use back in my mechanics days (gosh...I'm old to remember all this stuff now) I used to use a full sized bench vice and a socket smaller then the yoke opening. Get both caps pressed in SLOWLY using the bench vice (soft jaws recommended) until flush. Then I just used the socket and pressed in both cups until I could get the retaining ring installed. Grease it up before installing it on the truck.
Remember you should never have to force fit it. If it seems like it won't go? It might be the wrong one. Compressing it using excessive force will bury the cups into the joint and it will tear itself apart.
S-
Remember you should never have to force fit it. If it seems like it won't go? It might be the wrong one. Compressing it using excessive force will bury the cups into the joint and it will tear itself apart.
S-
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well i got them in, and i dont have a bench vice handy so ive been using a c-clamp, probably not the best method, but its worked so far. i was a little concerned about them being the wrong ones, but it went in pretty easy except for that last little bit. not im just waiting for my penatrating oil to soak in so i can get the middle one out. this really is a big pain, but its worth not dieing 
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From: Revelstoke B.C.
Originally Posted by Tedybear
The method I used to use back in my mechanics days (gosh...I'm old to remember all this stuff now) I used to use a full sized bench vice and a socket smaller then the yoke opening. Get both caps pressed in SLOWLY using the bench vice (soft jaws recommended) until flush. Then I just used the socket and pressed in both cups until I could get the retaining ring installed. Grease it up before installing it on the truck.
Remember you should never have to force fit it. If it seems like it won't go? It might be the wrong one. Compressing it using excessive force will bury the cups into the joint and it will tear itself apart.
S-
Remember you should never have to force fit it. If it seems like it won't go? It might be the wrong one. Compressing it using excessive force will bury the cups into the joint and it will tear itself apart.
S-