here is a E6DH for $120. Mine appeared to be locked up when i first got it. I had to put the clutch on and use a tool to break it free. I researched this and it was a common problem when a compressor sits on the shelf for years. There is a assembly lube used that dries up and the swash plates stick together. After putting in new oil and turning it it got easier and easier. I changed the oil and turned it some more and pretty soon it was rotating very easy..

A/C Compressor New Motorcraft YC53 FS6 Compressor Without Clutch OE Ford | eBay

 

Thanks again. THe link above for the E6DH is minus the clutch...so another $75. Which wouldn't be so bad if I didn't already have a new FS-10 sitting in the garage...grr.

The quick story with that is the seller sold me the FS10 with a warped clutch / pulley, so I had to take the original assembly off the old compressor and put it on there. Long story short he refuses to take it back. Great. If I knew obtaining these AC lines would be near impossible, I wouldn't have done that....alas...here we are...

I'd rather not spend another $200 on a compressor right now. Let me dye-check my current set up, and in the meantime see where in the world suction lines can be had from (somebody must sell them, right...?)

Thanks again.

 

well if we cant find them, there is also the suggestion of having shop use your old fittings and replace the hoses. If there are any left, some pom and pop parts stores used to do it. A place to check for info might a shop that restores cars. They might be able to tell you who does it in your area. You have all the fittings and they can build the lines to bypass the rear system. You may find it cheaper then a new line if we find one...

 

Here is a pic of the backside of the old compressor.

 

Thanks. That tells me how it mounts to the back of the compressor. Can you get a pick of how the lines bend after they leave the mounting block? i am trying to match them up by scanning pictures now. Also do the fittings on the other end of that compressor line have threaded fittings or spring lock fittings?
Again i think that the FS10 compressor may have been used on systems with front and rear ac units.
I also believe that the back side of the mounting block on your lines probably look like this one with the short inserts that go into the compressor.

 

If there is a line for the single front ac system using a FS10. 1 line "high side" will go directly to the condenser and the other "suction line" will connect to the line that runs under the firewall/cowl and it will probably have 1 muffler on the high side. basically like the line you posted earlier but with a different configuration where it connects to to the compressor

 

Thanks, Annaleigh.

I will work on getting better pics of how the lines look.

Yes, the connections from/to the compressor are 'spring lock' type; no threaded connectors that I can remember.

If you look back a couple pages in this thread there is a rough line routing, but I will try to get clearer pics.

Thanks for your help!

 

Well still no lead on a hose for the FS10 yet but here is some info that might help us out in our quest!

Question? I may have already ask this... What year was your van built? Is it a 1989 built before 01/89?
I ask because Ford Parts Giant lists a FS10 and specifies before 01/89.
Ford Part No.: F1DZ-19703-B
https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts...z-19703-b.html
Also I checked FPG to see if this FS10 compressor fits my 1988 and the site said NO!

It is the same condenser and front evaporator regardless of single or duel units.

Ok using the single front AC system diagram here are the hoses. Of course Hose #1 will not work.... But hose #2 and #3 will unless there is a problem with the fitting size on hose #3 matching up with what ever #1 hose we find for your van..


Hose # 1 = Motorcraft part number ?
Hose # 2 = Motorcraft part number E8UZ-19837-B or YF-1516 Make sure it has the mounting bracket.
Hose # 3 = Motorcraft part number SUCTION LINE E-VAN 88-91 YF-1990 or E9UZ19867-B

Just for the heck of it. VALVE (AIR CONDITIONING COMPRESSOR PRESSURE RELIEF)
F1CZ-19D644-A

This is a 1988 single system and duel system..

 

Ok, maybe some progress Don't worry about the price yet as we may find it somewhere else cheaper. Just trying to find something that will work right now...

This looks promising but says it is for a 4.9 engine which is a 6 cylinder.. The 4.9 is not as wide as a 5.0 but uses the same condenser so seems the hose would have to be able to reach the condenser. I think line #3 is also used on all the single unit systems around our year models... That would mean that the 4.9 line would also reach line #3...
I know the Ebay seller fitment chars says it will fit your 5.0 but Ebay fitment chart is not always correct. Perhaps you could contact the seller and see what he says...
I know the line is shaped different from the one you have now because of the way it comes off of the mounting block. The line with the shrader valve is the high side so you would need to check the compressor you have make sure the high and low side lines match with the back of the compressor you have. your current lines should tell you that. The only other problem I might see is if the way the lines come off of the compressor mounting block might hit something...
The suction line coming off of the compressor makes a U-turn and connects like it shows on the diagram i posted. IT looks like it will also fit..
Make sure you can return it if you need to... But lets hope it might work.

New OEM 1988-1989 Ford E-Sereis Econoline 4.9L A/C Refrigerant Suction Hose Line
E9UZ-19D850-B also YF-1547
New OEM 1988-1989 Ford E-Sereis Econoline 4.9L A/C Refrigerant Suction Hose Line

Here is a look at it from Rock Auto who is out of stock. It looks like they mounting block that i think fits your compressor with the inserts on the mounting block that go into the back of the compressor..
More Information for MOTORCRAFT YF1547


You might also call RockAuto and see if you can find out what hose this is:
VISTA-PRO 35127
Category: A/C Refrigerant Hose [Wholesaler Closeout - Private Label Pkg. - 30 Day Warranty] (Only 1 Remaining)
$24.79
http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/f...rant+hose,6900

 

Here is one more possibility as to the hose part number and fitment.
PG lists a E9UZ-19D850-A
E9UZ-19D850-A
A/C:Integral Note: Hose assy. suction & discharge from compr. to cond. & accum. (includes manifold) REFER TO FCS 8542-LT , CID:5.0,5.8L w/FX-15 compressor "Before 1/89"
They say they can not determine if it fits your van when you click check fit. BUT notice it says for Fx15
https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts...s=F1DZ-19703-B

According to
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...mpressors.html
The FX15 was replaced by the FS10 due to reliability problems... So if? the FX15 and FS10 are the same, then this could be the correct part number. i cant find a picture to tell if it is for a single or duel system.

 

Thank you so much for all the work. I have to re-read to digest a little more.

I have pics!

 

What about this one...?

New OEM 1989 & Up Ford A/C Refrigerant Line Hose Tube Pipe E9UH19D734BC

 

WOW!! I think you found it!!!! BTW how did you find it?
From the pictures it looks like it will fit... I sis a search and I think that seller must have bought up all he could find because there is no other listed that I could find...

Lets throw something else in here I learned when researching my hoses.
I don't think this will be a problem but just wanted you to know about this..
My hoses are marked NBR but I used mineral oil and R12
I was reading on the hose you found and it has NBR printed on the hose.
NBR hoses were what was used with mineral oil and R12. There are thousands maybe millions of retrofits out here running just fine for years with R134a...
BUT there are many websites that R134 will very, very, very, very slowly leak through the NBR hoses. Their explanation is that the molecules in R134a are smaller then the molecules in R12. There are also many websites with experts/folks denying that is truth. As web posters go, this guy seems to know what he is talking about.
If I understand him correctly, R134a molecules are actually larger then R12 molecules. He says it is the PAG oil that slowly over time deteriorates NBR hoses.
But he also mentions "PAG will only very slowly degrade the rubber, but from a hose manufacturers view, it will affect the strength of the hose during the life of the vehicle."
SO if that is correct you may only get another 15 or 20 years out of the new hose!!!
Automotive Air Conditioning Bulletin Board ? View topic - R134a and R12 Seals, difference?
One other thing he mentions and I read when researching hoses for my van is that the mineral oil used with R12 systems penetrates the NBR hoses and blocks the seepage or deterioration from the PAG oil.
SO with all of that said.. Though it would not be the same as the hose used in a R12 system with mineral oil under pressure.. Here in the south it is starting to cool down and if you buy the hose and don't plan on installing it till next spring,,, I might think about flushing it with mineral oil a few times between now and spring. Though it wont be under pressure the hose might absorb some of the mineral oil.... Again if that would even be a problem....

Ok now on to possible problem #2
In the two diagrams posted of the 1988 E150 ac lines... The green suction line I labeled #3... I don't know what that line looks like on your van but in the upper drawing of a duel system, that line #3 shows a fitting that connects to the line going to the rear AC unit... If so then you will need to devise a way to plug that fitting off or replace that line... hopefully it has a flare fitting or you may be able to tap it and plug it... If not they are available. I probably bought the last cheap one left last year.
There is one I came across that is a replacement and has newer type hose rated for R134a and is much cheaper then the Motorcraft hose. i ordered it first but it just seemed flimsy compared to the Motorcraft hose so i returned it..
It is OMEGA ENVIRONMENTAL TECHNOLOGIES part #34-63446 and around $100.

A company called finditparts.com sells it on ebay for $92 but I bought from them in the past and they sent the wrong part and i had to pay return shipping and fight with them about the restocking fee when it was their problem..
It can probably be found cheaper or about the same from another company..

Hose # 3 = Front AC only - Motorcraft part number SUCTION LINE E-VAN 88-91 YF-1990 or E9UZ-19867-B

-
Ok on to the last hose..
Hose # 2 = Motorcraft part number E8UZ-19837-B or YF-1516
Also shows a second hose going off of it heading to the rear AC unit.. If so, you will need to plug it or replace it..
ITs thankfully only $39 on ebay I cant tell if it is the NBR type hose or the newer type hose for R134a. I do know it can be bought with the newer type hose becauseI bought one and also returned it because it was flimsy compared to the Motorcraft hose. Again though I used R12 and mineral oil so it wont be an issue...
New OEM 1988 & Up Ford A/C Refrigerant Line Hose Tube Pipe YF-1516 E8UZ19837B | eBay


Ok well I guess that about covers it, for now,, i think...
Again when I replaced my system I had all winter to search for parts and pricing...,

Another option might be if you could find a van at the pull a parts... Those 2 hoses #2 and#3 fit 88 though 91...




OH I remember what I was going to ask... You have a second battery on the left side don't you? My 85 has space for one but I would have to relocate the overflow tank to put one on my 88

 

Well, i think that was dumb luck that i found it. The image appeared in the Ebay link that I was looking at...super random.

Do you think that is the correct line...? if so I will spend the $100 on it.

yes, I have dual batteries. They came with the van, I did not install them. Though the house battery is new, i replaced it.

So update: today I tried to fill the system with dye/R134A. I tried a 2.5oz bottle first, and the compressor did not kick out....get, out $15. I went to the store and boughta bigger R134A with dye in it...tried that. The compressor cycled. I let it cycle on and off (it was low on R134a for about 10 minutes. I had a crummy UV light that I looked for leaks with, but could not find any. Great.

I think my next course of action is to get a proper UV light and poke around for the leaks.

My worry is that the dye I put in there did not cycle through the entire system and I wasted $40 today.

What should I do?

I'm about to buy the line that i found, so at least I get rid of some of the headaches I think are the main problem...then test vacuum again before I have to return the gauges to Auto Zone.

Sound ok?

 

According to what i can see from the pictures, YES that line on Ebay is the correct line.
See pics below..

No more dye! Remember 2.5 ounces of dye takes takes away the total capacity of the system oil and R134a needed...
BUT it may take longer then 10 minutes to get the dye to flow through the system and leak out.. Remember it takes 56 ounces of R135 to fill it... I have heard of some leaks showing up during vacuum but not on charge and the other way around.
There are also kits that have uv glasses and a light that might work better.

BTW,,, Are the lines disconnected going back to the rear system?

The pics I spliced into your original pics,,, I could not get the angle just right but they look to be the same if you adjust for the angle difference.