1989 E150 AC Question
Drove the van 2500 miles (round trip) to Vancouver Island BC...!
Did okay, only thing was the ECM (ECU) crapped out on us waaaay up there. Had a great group of Canadians help us out.
Well, the whole trip it was 90° F and up! Too hot! Really could have used that AC...grrr...
next time. I did rebuild the compressor, but it still wouldn't hold vacuum. I rigged up a pressure test and found a leak in through the large compressor o-ring that seals the two parts on the large outer diameter...at any rate, now I'm going to buy a new compressor off of Ebay and be done with it.
THanks for all the help!

As to deleting the rear ac. My van only has a front ac and it is all it can do to keep folks from sweating in the back of the van. If you wont be hauling folks in the rear then you will be fine... I hope to convert mine into a camper and it wouldn't be feasible to run the engine to cool the inside so i cant see what good a rear unit would do for me at this point. I have seen some pretty neat installations of small window units installed but then you would only use it when you had 110 volts, a noisy generator, or a really good solar system. So i guess that all depends on what kid of camping one does.
Where does one get a rebuilt ECM? I was going to head to the junkyard and find one, but if there is a better option, I'm all for-d it

!As to deleting the rear ac. My van only has a front ac and it is all it can do to keep folks from sweating in the back of the van. If you wont be hauling folks in the rear then you will be fine... I hope to convert mine into a camper and it wouldn't be feasible to run the engine to cool the inside so i cant see what good a rear unit would do for me at this point. I have seen some pretty neat installations of small window units installed but then you would only use it when you had 110 volts, a noisy generator, or a really good solar system. So i guess that all depends on what kid of camping one does.
There are several posts about a common failure being the capacitors inside the ECM. i believe there is usually 3 of them. They will swell up or bludge out on the top of the capacitor as well as the legs on the capacitor corroding off. Many people replace them themselves. I may remove my ECM and have a look at the board to see if I spot anything going bad...
Besides the capacitors I have read that some solder joints on other parts may burn out and a close inspection should revel that too. If there is a cracks or broken printed circuit on the board itself, they can often be repaired by just soldering in a jumper across it.
Another problem I read about what where a guy took his ECM out to inspect it and he didnt see anything wrong with it except it was pretty dirty and dusty inside. He cleaned it up and reinstalled it to find that the truck ran better then it had in years.. So could just be a bad connection or dust shorting something out.
So if you are comfortable with a little soldering, you may be able to fix it for just a few bucks. The capacitors are only a couple of bucks and may be well worth trying before resorting to buying a $100 rebuilt unit that probably had the capacitors replaced to fix it.
I took a very short electronics class years and years ago and though I am far from a expert, I have done several simple electronic repairs over the years.. So if you have never done it but are handy,, and I believe you are with all thework you have been doing... ,, I would go for the inspection/repair first...
What symptoms are you having and what did you do to get the van back?
There are a couple of threads here on FTE about this repair as well as here is a couple of videos..
If you do replace it you have to make sure you get the exact part number ECM..
And if yo uneed help locating the ECM, I thnk i have some pics showing where it is.. It is under the evaporator housing inside the van and the harness connector is on the engine side of the firewall under the evaperator housing.
Perhaps it would be good to start another thread to see what companies supply good ECM's
1989 FORD E-150 5.0L 302cid V8 Engine Control Module (ECM Computer) | RockAuto
Here is some more info for cross reference
E8TZ12A650KB-E8TZ12A650KB Electronic Control Unit
FORD E8TZ12A650KB Electronic Control Unit
Some ECM's have to be programed I am not sure about out year models... But cardone says they come pre programed. They may be talking about newer models. WE need to find out if they need to be..
More Information for FOUR SEASONS 56686
Is this the correct one? If not, what is?
Thanks.
I found neat cross reference tables and good images here :https://uacparts.com/Catalog/Index
Seems like they have at least cross references to the lines I would need, which would be great to get rid of the splices and such...
And I think this is the seal kit I'm going to get...Ford FS10/HS18/HS20 Master Reseal Kit SK-731N/MK
But I found a NEW compressor (FS10) on ebay for $120 shipped to my door...so I might suck up the heat this trip, collect my pennies and spring for the compressor when I get back....and know I have a solid compressor for hopefully years of service. I'd honestly like to use the reman'd compressor I have, but I just don't want to rely on it in the future when I could spend $100 more and have piece of mind...right?
10000515 NEW VALEO A/C COMPRESSOR FORD TAURUS AC | eBay
I think I will end up deleting the rear air, I mean, I don't really think I'll need it for the extra hassle / cost.
So, I think this weekend I'll put the crummy (at least I think) comp back in, and focus on a couple other things I need to get done on the van, set the new rotors / brakes, check fluids etc. for our trip.
Thanks for your help, and I'll report back soon!


More Information for FOUR SEASONS 56686
Is this the correct one? If not, what is?
Thanks.
If this is Four Seasons 56686, then mine is the same BUT for the FS-10 compressor...so it has a different connections to the in/outlet of the compressor...can anybody tell me which AC line assembly to buy? I can't find it anywhere. Thanks.
Just for reference the "Four Seasons 56680" is also for the FS6 or E6DH compressor and looks almost exactly the same except for the position of the muffler and the angle of the metal suction line coming off of the compressor mounting block. It is for a van with a 5.8.
How do I know? I was searching for Motorcraft hoses and came across the one for the 5.8 hose at 1/4tgh the price of the Motorcraft hose for the 5.0.
Everything looked great in a side by side comparison but when I went to install the hose, Because the angle of the metal line coming off of the mounting block, it was hitting a bracket or something (can't remember just what it was hitting at the moment). With a little tweaking in the vise, it worked fine.
I don't have a lot of time right now i will try to see what I can find for the FS10 compressor later on.
Are you going to do away with the rear unit?
To do so, you will need to replace 3 lines.. The one you found, the one that runs under the firewall and over to the dryer/accumulator, and the high side line from the condenser to the evaporator. That will get rid of all of the splices.
If so then you might think about changing the E6dh ford/motorcraft brand compressor if we cant find the correct lines for the FS10.
Without looking back you mentioned a different brand compressor and I don't know how they hold up.
Here is a thread about the FS6 vers FS10
Exert:
If you're retrofitting, I would dtay with an FS6, if that is what you have. If you switch to the FS10, I would only use the UNICLA FS10 REPLACEMENT COMPRESSOR as it has a sump, which would eliminate oil starvation problems..However, in my opinion, the FS6 is a much stronger/tougher compressor.
FS6 vs. FS10 - Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum
I think the E6DH is the same as the FS6 except for the mounting.
Some of the FS10s have 3 mounting points while others have 4 that may be the years differences though.
FS10 Compressor | eBay
The E6Dh is also known as the FS6 X bolt, I assume because of the 4 bolt pattern.
The E6DH is also known as Motorcraft YC-53 and can be found for around $135 without a clutch.. The clutch and hub would add another, say $75.
I bought my clutch as 2 separate parts from 2 different sellers because it worked out to around $30 total.
Any way i have to run so let me know what you think...
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts

So, I already bought the FS10 compressor. Great. From what you are saying, I should have stayed with the FS6 or E6DH. I did not know this was an option, as the old compressor I replaced was a FS10.
So am I stuck? I would really like to replace these lines. My problem currently is that I'm only able to draw ~20mmHG of vacuum on the system. It only hold for about 30minutes, then slowly leaks. Is that normal...?
I'm not really sure how to check for leaks other than replace parts that I haven't already replaced yet. Since these lines are hacked together (see other pictures) to get rid of the rear A/C, I figure I might as well try.
So I don't want to buy another compressor, I have a new FS10 in there and spinning happily, I just need to swap the old lines out and try to re-vacuum the system, hopefully just some of those connections are crappy.
Thanks for your help.



Just for reference the "Four Seasons 56680" is also for the FS6 or E6DH compressor and looks almost exactly the same except for the position of the muffler and the angle of the metal suction line coming off of the compressor mounting block. It is for a van with a 5.8.
How do I know? I was searching for Motorcraft hoses and came across the one for the 5.8 hose at 1/4tgh the price of the Motorcraft hose for the 5.0.
Everything looked great in a side by side comparison but when I went to install the hose, Because the angle of the metal line coming off of the mounting block, it was hitting a bracket or something (can't remember just what it was hitting at the moment). With a little tweaking in the vise, it worked fine.
I don't have a lot of time right now i will try to see what I can find for the FS10 compressor later on.
Are you going to do away with the rear unit?
To do so, you will need to replace 3 lines.. The one you found, the one that runs under the firewall and over to the dryer/accumulator, and the high side line from the condenser to the evaporator. That will get rid of all of the splices.
If so then you might think about changing the E6dh ford/motorcraft brand compressor if we cant find the correct lines for the FS10.
Without looking back you mentioned a different brand compressor and I don't know how they hold up.
Here is a thread about the FS6 vers FS10
Exert:
If you're retrofitting, I would dtay with an FS6, if that is what you have. If you switch to the FS10, I would only use the UNICLA FS10 REPLACEMENT COMPRESSOR as it has a sump, which would eliminate oil starvation problems..However, in my opinion, the FS6 is a much stronger/tougher compressor.
FS6 vs. FS10 - Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum
I think the E6DH is the same as the FS6 except for the mounting.
Some of the FS10s have 3 mounting points while others have 4 that may be the years differences though.
FS10 Compressor | eBay
The E6Dh is also known as the FS6 X bolt, I assume because of the 4 bolt pattern.
The E6DH is also known as Motorcraft YC-53 and can be found for around $135 without a clutch.. The clutch and hub would add another, say $75.
I bought my clutch as 2 separate parts from 2 different sellers because it worked out to around $30 total.
Any way i have to run so let me know what you think...
The issue now is finding the right hoses. (I still haven’t had time to look) It took me 6 months to round up all my parts. It would have been much faster but i was shopping around for cheap prices and I started in the fall.
Can you get a pic of where and how the line connects to the compressor?
I know they used several different compressors on our year vans depending on it it was a factory installed or a dealer installed AC. I am wondering if the FS10 was used when you have front and rear AC and the E6DH with front ac only. The reason i am thinking that is because there seems to be an abundance of hoses out there like the one you posted the link to... So it is going to be important that we find a line that fits a FS10 compressor and was made for a front ac only system.
Now I think I mentioned this before about finding a local shop that could just rebuild your lines using parts from your old lines.. I checked with a company and it was cheaper then buying a new line online. the reason I didn’t go that route was because they were 50 miles away from me...
What i often do if I cant figure out a actual part number is to do a goggle search say,, E150 econoline ac suction hose pictures and look through them to find one that matches.. I use “econoline" sometimes because our year vans were commonly know as econoline. I don’t think the newer ones are so much.
https://www.google.com/search?q=E150...w=1152&bih=614
If you were using standard vacuum pump then you should pull the vacuum down to 29...
it should hold indefinably or you have a leak. The leak can also be in your gauge set or the connection to your gauge hoses especially if you are using loaner tool from a parts store. People will over tighten the fittings and ruin the little rubber O-ring inside the gauge hose fittings. Someone else comes along and uses the gauges and has leak problems..
If you cant get below 20hg then you have a pretty good size leak and should be able to hear it if the system was pressurized to around 100 psi.
Probably the cheapest way to find a leak is with the UV dye and black light.
You might fill the system with nitrogen or co2 and listen for leaks...
Or charge with freon and use a electronic leak detector..
It would be un-ethical for me to suggest you charge it with R134 and listen for a leak!!!
I glanced at the computer co2 air duster cans and co2 paint ball canisters and geez they are more expensive then R134!
If you use air from a compressor of any kind, you would be putting a lot moisture in the system...
And let me get this straight,,,, you are planing on deleting the rear ac?
dont sweat as we will get this worked out!!
KEEP IN MIND some of these may not be for the 5.0/302 engine... Just looking for anything that you might see and can visually match to your system.
First is Part# E8UZ-19867-D This appears to be for duel system
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-OEM-1988...D/152417832860
-
-
YF-1517 or E8UZ1983-C The "E" stands tor 1980's and the "8" stands tor the year in the 80's' hence 1988. The "U" stands for Econoline.
Just because it has a 8 does not mean it fits only 1988 years. The part could have been revised in 1988 so an older or newer part might also fit and would have a different code.
Again this would be for a duel system. I believe this one if for a 6 cylinder engine and would probably not work on yours.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-OEM-1988...1YuG5H&vxp=mtr
Thanks so much for your help.
I tried to return the compressor, but am not able to, so I am stuck with th FS10. If I had to, I could scrap the FS10 buy the E6DH, but would rather not eat the $125 right away...
I will work on getting pics of the compressor in/outlet and generally how they are routed. I had some pics in old posts. I also may just take the lines completely out (again), so I could take pics then.
I think that is the challenge; finding a front-only AC line set that uses the FS10 compressor. I called a couple parts shops and they were totally not helpful. :/ Thanks for the tips, I'm still not able to find anything close to my set up for the FS10 which is strange....
About the leaks; maybe before I take everything apart again I will try the UV dye method and see if I can pinpoint the leaks...that sounds like a plan.
I have a vacuum pump and gauge set on loan from Auto Zone. It was brand new when I got it 1.5 months ago; still in the package. It has extra o-rings and seals. I actually tested it yesterday, and it seemed good, as it should.
I can get to 22/23 mmHg vacuum, but after I close off the system for ~30mins to 1 hour, it leaks. Overnight it is basically at zero the next morning.
Yes, I'm deleting the rear air. As is, like previous pics show the crappy spliced-in pipes is what I'm trying to get rid of. Now if it's somehow easier to purchase the rear air along with the front air for the FS10, I'm not opposed...just don't really need that rear air working if it's more complicated.
Thanks for the reassurance...and sticking with this thread. I really like to gain some positive traction soon.




The issue now is finding the right hoses. (I still haven’t had time to look) It took me 6 months to round up all my parts. It would have been much faster but i was shopping around for cheap prices and I started in the fall.
Can you get a pic of where and how the line connects to the compressor?
I know they used several different compressors on our year vans depending on it it was a factory installed or a dealer installed AC. I am wondering if the FS10 was used when you have front and rear AC and the E6DH with front ac only. The reason i am thinking that is because there seems to be an abundance of hoses out there like the one you posted the link to... So it is going to be important that we find a line that fits a FS10 compressor and was made for a front ac only system.
Now I think I mentioned this before about finding a local shop that could just rebuild your lines using parts from your old lines.. I checked with a company and it was cheaper then buying a new line online. the reason I didn’t go that route was because they were 50 miles away from me...
What i often do if I cant figure out a actual part number is to do a goggle search say,, E150 econoline ac suction hose pictures and look through them to find one that matches.. I use “econoline" sometimes because our year vans were commonly know as econoline. I don’t think the newer ones are so much.
https://www.google.com/search?q=E150...w=1152&bih=614
If you were using standard vacuum pump then you should pull the vacuum down to 29...
it should hold indefinably or you have a leak. The leak can also be in your gauge set or the connection to your gauge hoses especially if you are using loaner tool from a parts store. People will over tighten the fittings and ruin the little rubber O-ring inside the gauge hose fittings. Someone else comes along and uses the gauges and has leak problems..
If you cant get below 20hg then you have a pretty good size leak and should be able to hear it if the system was pressurized to around 100 psi.
Probably the cheapest way to find a leak is with the UV dye and black light.
You might fill the system with nitrogen or co2 and listen for leaks...
Or charge with freon and use a electronic leak detector..
It would be un-ethical for me to suggest you charge it with R134 and listen for a leak!!!
I glanced at the computer co2 air duster cans and co2 paint ball canisters and geez they are more expensive then R134!
If you use air from a compressor of any kind, you would be putting a lot moisture in the system...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gd0KwE11S1g
And let me get this straight,,,, you are planing on deleting the rear ac?
dont sweat as we will get this worked out!!
IF you use their part numbers and then look up the part numbers, you might be able to find one that matches .. If you can return the FS10 and get the E6DH, I can look back and find all the hoses I bought for my van with front only ac...
I have posted links from here before and they did not work, maybe this one will..
https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts...ses-tubes.html
Something like those Rubber cone shaped stoppers would work great but don't know where to get them quick.. So anything you could rig up that would make a good seal...
Also as to thew FS10,, you might try to list it on Ebay and resale it... If you searched for the lowest price when you bought it,,, $5 or $10 dollars less would probably get you a quick sell
When buying the AC clutch pulley for my van, NOS sent me the wrong part but it was packaged in a box with the right part number. They told me to just keep it and sent me the right part... SO I have brand new AC clutch pulley that fits a 90's something ford truck i should have listed a year ago!.. If I were to kick the bucket,,,, I would hope that my son would sift through all the new Motorcraft parts I have collected but not installed yet and resale them for a good price instead of just trashing them...
I have a heater core, blower fan motor, rear door seals, front door window sweeps, o2 sensor, New bottle of motorcraft York compressor oil and many other parts I plan to replace one day, one day.... Oh and then there is that AOD transmission governor I have never replaced..
I just realized I am a Ford van part hoarder!!!
No really most of them I happened to run across at a 1/4th the average price while scanning the internet and said WOW I see lots of those going out on older vans and bought them...
So here is the link.. I find lots of little sensors and other parts for 1 or 2 dollars that fit our vans...
uhaul truck parts online | eBay Stores






