WOW! thanks for the responses and info! That's a bunch to digest. I will give it my best.

Update:

I rented a flush kit, AC manifold gauges and vacuum pump from Autozone; for a deposit and $15 worth of 'flush solvent' I figures, what the hey...

I flushed out the lines (took them off) including the mufflers (there are two...???); clean and they are drying out the rest of the way now.

left the evaporator and condenser on the van...yeah, I know i should take them out, but I am leaving on a good long trip next Thursday for two weeks, and want to have things sorted by early next week...so, yeah. I think I got most of it the coolant / crud out. Actually most of the lines were very clean...so I wonder where all the 'red dye' I injected into the system went? i saw no trace of it...? Strange.

Unfortunately, I don't have time enough to replace the condenser or evaporator...the condenser ran VERY clean, with no restrictions. The evaporator, well, i did my best with most of the flush going there...and what came out had a healthy green tint to it, so...i hope that's going to be alright.

The compressor has great suction on the bench hand-testing it. How else can i easily check it before I pop it back in? it seems alight to me.

How much PAG oil do I need to put in where? Compressor is the FS10, thank you.

How much oil goes in the drier? Which hole do i pour it into...? Does it matter?



Next steps are to fill it with oil (above) and put it back together, and pull a vacuum and see how long she holds. Should I pull vacuum before I add oil? Will the vacuum pull out the oil...? Hmmm...this sure is complicated...BUT I'm learning quite a bit

If its good, no leaks, I'll buy some R134a (again) and put that in.

>>>>How much R134a do I need for my empty system...?

Thank you for all the helpful links and kind words! More pics when I get a chance. Such a neat van! I'm trying to take care of it as much as possible.

cheers!

 

Sorry not to answer all the questions, just been so busy!

I'm in CA. Yup, my condenser is the original (large diameter tubes, so an easy flush )

I think the van originally had front and rear air (the rear air being under the driverside seat), but maybe that was when Sportsmobile did the conversion....I haven't tried that yet. It looks like someone wanted to convert it back to just front air (engine driven) and put in some steel pipe in place of the "T" or whatever that was in there...

>>>Will a metal pipe secured with hose clamps be sufficient to hold in the refrigerant...? I know it's not ideal, but shoot...I don't have time to replace them too...hmmm...I really don't like a hack-job...grrrr...

Cheers!

 

 

Sorry it took a bit to get back...

Well it looks like you have been busy and got allot done. ...
Let me catch up with you here.
Good job getting everything you needed as loaner tools. I didn’t know they loaned a flush kit..

You blew everything out with air after flushing right?

You said green came out of the evaporator when you flushed it... Was the flush chemical green? If not... you still have something in there and need to flush it again. If you flush it again, try using a white cloth over the end where the chemical exits and check for dirt or other contaminants.

As to the red dye,, I do not know. Mixing blue and yellow colors make green. Red is a primary color and there is no other color that will mix with red to make green. BUT perhaps since we are dealing with chemicals instead of just colors, there could be a chemical reaction that made the green..

As to flushing the lines with the muffler...
Here is an article about that. Not all mufflers are the same and some can be flushed while others can not. Now if you have one that should not be flushed but it was clean inside to start with, then you should be ok.
Flushing Mufflers-Are You Feeling Lucky?
Flushing Mufflers-Are You Feeling Lucky? - Automotive Air Conditioning Information Forum

How to test the compressor of the van..
My manual shows a special tool that connects to the ports and you attach your gauges to that adaptor. Without the adaptor, I don’t know how you would test it off the van.

How much oil and what kind..
My manual is for a FS6 compressor using R12 and states 10 oz for the total system oil charge.
You identified your compressor as being a FS10. Many of the sites I checked when looking up a FS10 said 7 ounces but did not specify if that was to fill the compressor or total system charge.

http://www.technicalchemical.com/tec...cantguide4.pdf
This site here says TOTAL SYSTEM CHARGE 10 ounces.
Also says to use PAG 46, ISO viscosity of 46.. Ford oil part number is YN-12b. Ford uses special oils. As I was going back with all new parts I had the hardest time finding the Ford spec YN-9 paraffin based mineral oil for the R12.

I am not 100% sure, but I tend to agree with the 10 ounce total system oil charge based on what you add to the other components, condenser, evaporator, and accumulator.
Accumulator add 2 ounces
Evaporator add 2 ounces
Condenser add 1 ounce
That totals to 5 ounces for the components and would leave 5 ounces left to go in the compressor.
If you were to follow the 7 ounce follow, that would only leave 2 ounces for the
compressor and that would not be enough.

The compressor should turn clockwise. add the 5 ounces of oil to the port that sucks in...
As to the condenser and evaporator, you are going to have to figure out a method to get the oil to enter them since they are in place in the van. I used a large syringe I got at the local feed store with a piece of clear tubing on the end. I was able to insert the tubing way inside the evaporator and the oil did not flow back out as I injected it. If you have a animal feed store, tractor supply, hobby shop, or perhaps even a local urgent care might have one..

Yes add the oil before you pull the vacuum... BUT before you add the oil to the compressor,, Set the AC CLUTCH AIR GAP! It can be done after you install the compressor but is much easier to do with the compressor off. Put everything back together before you pull the vacuum. Once everything is back together and before you pull the vacuum, Turn the compressor over by hand several times,, again, several times,, to make sure the oil does not slug the compressor when starting and recharging the system. One post I read here on ford trucks said to start the engine before pulling the vacuum and let the compressor run a few seconds then pull the vacuum..

How much R134?
Well thats a mystery too! You said your van used to have a rear ac and it has been disconnected.. How much of it is left? If any hoses still run towards the rear of the van, they take up volume too.. If they have been capped off near the front then I don’t think it will be that critical.
My manual is for a 1988 econiline and your condenser, evaporator, and accumulator are the same part numbers as mine, you just have a different type compressor.

For the 1988 E150 - E350 with front AC only requires 3.5lbs of freon + .25-0
For the 1988 E150 - E350 with front and rear AC., 4.25lbs + .25-0

I have read that when converting a R12 system to R134a, that the system works better with a little less R134a freon in the system. So you might not want to go with the full charge to start with...
3.5 lbs is 56 ounces. I used 14 ounce cans. 3x14=56..
The most accurate way is to have a digital scale. Weigh each can to see if they weigh the same, not all are, write that down. Some cans may have a bit more or less freon in them. After you have used one can, weigh that empty can and then you will know how much freon is in the other two full cans!

 

1988

This is clearly not the same as yours as the compressor is different and so the hoses are a bit different.. but would be mine if it had a rear ac. It will give you an idea of what yours had.

 

In the long run you would be better off to take the lines to a AC or hydraulic shop that builds lines. they can use some of the old parts.. IT would do away with the splices and I think yo could do away with the mufflers too..

 

Thanks again.

I vacuumed down the system last night, but it will only go to 20mm Hg...

I think the front seal in the compressor is leaking...as you described in one of your posts...all the other orings are new and oiled up, the drier is new and the lines are cleaned...oil in the appropriate places...crap.

Since i'd like to get this done this weekend or not for a few weeks (leaving next week), should I bother with the rebuild kit, or get a new compressor...? It's a question of money, but if the rebuild kit would do the job for a few years...what do you think?

Where do I get a new 'Ford AC filter kit filter' like in my pics below, you mentioned I should replace?

I know that getting a shop to make the lines is the way to go..I'll have to look into that later. Thanks though.

 

This looks like what I have...I doubt the rear AC is working then...Since it's been hacked up...Thanks for the pics

 

Don't buy a compressor right now....
What makes you think it is the seal in the compressor?
You also have O-rings on the back of the compressor where the lines connect...

Did you lube the O-rings on all of the connections before installation?
Sometimes one can get cut or damaged when putting the connectors together.

Your AC lines are pretty hacked up and one of them could be leaking at a splice.

You could have a pin hole in the evaporator or condenser.

OR it could simply be one of the hoses on your gauges or the vacuum pump fitting... check those. When tightening down gauge hoses, only hand tighten as they have rubber seals in them and over tightening them can damage the seals. It is not uncommon to get a loaner tool that has been abused by someone else who had it before....

Now you have a problem with the accumulator since it is opened to the air and will draw moisture into the desiccant bag inside of it. I don't know how to salvage it.... Everything I have always read or been told is that after being opened for several hours the desiccant inside is no good... Moisture inside the system will cause corrosion and ruin parts.. Even though you vacuum out the system, the desiccant will pull out any left behind or that may enter through the hoses when connecting or disconnecting them.. Always purge your hoses when charging a system...

Ok,, how to find the leak...
When I worked around refrigeration companies years ago, they would pressurize the systems with nitrogen and check for leaks. I don't know where you can get a small canister but they are sold... Do a search for "disposable nitrogen cylinder, canister, or tank.. Check with a refrigeration supply and they might have one..

HEre is an example
https://www.budgetheating.com/Nitrog...er-p/26007.htm

In my 1988 manual they recommend flushing and pressurizing with R12. They would then listen for a leak or use a sniffer tool, but as you know that would be illegal today.
EPA regulations prohibit the intentional release of all refrigerants during the maintenance, service, repair, or disposal of air-conditioning and refrigeration equipment.

So even putting dye in the system and using R134a would not work as if your leak was big enough, you probably wouldn't even have time to get the dye to circulate before your pressures dropped and it would be venting into the atmosphere..

Another method would be to disconnect sections of the system, plug the lines, and pull the vacuum again.
Example: disconnect the two lines connecting to the condenser and plug the hoses with something that you know will not leak or contaminate the system OR be sucked into the line accidentally, and pull the vacuum again. If you still cant hold a vacuum, try disconnecting the evaporator and plug the lines going to it. If it is not the evaporator or condenser, then you have to check the lines systematical.

I don't know if you can find them locally but try to find some plugs like this.. Or figure out something else that would work for you and guarantee no leaks.. If you use the rubber plugs, be sure and put some lubricant on them so help seal them... Actually what ever you use should have some lubricant so help seal them..
https://www.stockcap.com/store/0.500...g-100-Bag.html

 

Ford should have the filter kit but will be expensive. I have seen them on Ebay and in come cases just the large filter. I also saw some that worked on both types of hoses.. They are labeled o the filter itself as well as the hose size.. Ford will not guarantee a compressor without using a filter kit..

I did not use one with my system because I replaced every part new..

The video will give you the part numbers and like I said, I have seen newer kits that work for both type hoses.. so the size of the hose is critical..

 

NOTE: If you find a shop near you that can make up the lines,, they might be able to do it pretty quick. I called a shop abotu one of mine and he said he would so it while I waited...

My hoses on the 88 were rubber hoses...
Is there a part number on your old filter?

This one says 3/4" rubber or nylon...
Motorcraft YL-166 A/C Filter Kit OEM Ford # F2VY-19E773-E | eBay


This one says 5/8 rubber hose only...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-MOTORCR...3D182539535071

 

also about the accumulator

Aircondition.Com - Automotive A/C Knowledge Base - Accumulator

Aircondition.Com - Automotive A/C Knowledge Base - Desiccant

 

Well, shoot. looks like this is becoming quite the project

I know the compressor is probably leaking because when I had it out on the bench, I turned it by hand clockwise and plugged the inlet hole with my finger...I could hear pretty well a sucking / hissing noise coming from the clutch / front of the compressor...

I know I replaced all the orings / spring lock springs I could and oiled them up...including the behind-the-compressor seals and the high pressure blowoff seal.

I priced a rebuilt compressor at a shop and it's like $200...:/ too much for me right now. I think I'm going to have to live with out ac until I come back from my trip at this point.

Next steps would be to rebuild to comp, test it under vacuum, and refill it...or slap in a new comp.

 

At least it is labor and not so much parts! The seal kit is around $20 I believe..
Well if the system was clean inside when you flushed it, then there is a good chance that the compressor is still good except for dried out seals. There is the chance that the seal is the only leak you have.
It is going to be hot but you can make it is that is what you decide to do....

I had the advantage that I bought my van in the fall and thought, I will need the AC working come summer. I started researching and collecting parts over the winter and when spring came I was ready to do the job. That also gave me time to shop around and find the cheapest prices. I had the idea, I can find it cheaper if I look some more and that paid off. I do think I would have had the lines done by a shop though if I was to do it over again. It would have been a bit cheaper.. The only problem was the line that connected to the compressor with the muffler. I was told you could do away with it but I wanted to put it back like it came from the factory.

That is not your compressor in the diagram I posted is it?
Can you post a pic of your compressor where the lines connect to it?
The FS10 has the lines on the rear and the FS6 or E6DH compressors have the hose mounting on the top.

I mention the different compressors because you may have options as to which compressor to use and what lines are needed. That will give you more options when shopping and pricing parts. You will also have the option to delete the rear unit and replace the lines with no splices.. That high pressure line can have over 300psi on it..

I read a article talking about the FS10 compressor and that some models have a larger oil sump the others depending on the brand you buy. The FS6/E6DH compressor has a larger oil sump.
So you have options....

Rock Auto is also showing a brand new Morotcraft compressor that fits your van but I am not familiar with it... But it is $149 minus the clutch... I bought my clutch in in separate parts from different sellers because it was cheaper then i could find the whole clutch in Motorcraft brand.

 

Thanks!

I found neat cross reference tables and good images here :https://uacparts.com/Catalog/Index

Seems like they have at least cross references to the lines I would need, which would be great to get rid of the splices and such...

And I think this is the seal kit I'm going to get...Ford FS10/HS18/HS20 Master Reseal Kit SK-731N/MK

But I found a NEW compressor (FS10) on ebay for $120 shipped to my door...so I might suck up the heat this trip, collect my pennies and spring for the compressor when I get back....and know I have a solid compressor for hopefully years of service. I'd honestly like to use the reman'd compressor I have, but I just don't want to rely on it in the future when I could spend $100 more and have piece of mind...right?

10000515 NEW VALEO A/C COMPRESSOR FORD TAURUS AC | eBay

I think I will end up deleting the rear air, I mean, I don't really think I'll need it for the extra hassle / cost.

So, I think this weekend I'll put the crummy (at least I think) comp back in, and focus on a couple other things I need to get done on the van, set the new rotors / brakes, check fluids etc. for our trip.

Thanks for your help, and I'll report back soon!