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Did the Compressor come filled with oil? Many times it comes overfilled (enough for the whole system) so you have to drain it before installing. If this is the case, there should be a tag on it saying to drain.
yes, that was part of what took so long. I fought with the #%*@ thing for hours trying to get things lined up and grinding things down, etc. When I finally did get it on I realized that I still had the shipping oil in it so I had to take the whole dang thing back out and drain out the oil.
The next fight is the fan. According to my Chiltons manual it says all I need to do is remove one of the bolts that holds the fan to some sort of spacer. Obviously this is not correct, this is not what mine looks like.
It can't be that easy.
here's what mine actually looks like:
Dr J., from the looks of it you should be able to undo the 4 bolts, you can see 2 of the 4 in your picture, that hold the fan hub to the water pump just in front of the pulley.
Warning! Use a sheet of card board between fan & radiator before undoing the bolts and removing the fan.
This way when it does move and if it is going to hit the radiator the card board should protect it.
Originally Posted by Franklin2
It's for a 1996 Ford ranger 4.0 engine. Autozone #74809 $18.99.
Thanks I will have to pick one up for my truck.
Dave ----
Warning! Use a sheet of card board between fan & radiator before undoing the bolts and removing the fan.
This way when it does move and if it is going to hit the radiator the card board should protect it
This turned out to be good advice, I used it on the inside when I was pulling the fan out and then moved it to the outside of the radiator when I was taking out the old condenser installing the new one, then moved it back to the inside while I reinstalled the fan and shroud. It's saved the radiator a couple of things for sure. Thanks.
One day down, the new compressor and condenser are both installed (haven't hooked up any hoses yet). Hopefully today will get the accumulator and evaporator installed so I can pull a vacuum and then charge it.
Did you add oil to the Condenser and Evaporator? It's easier when it is out so you turn the unit however needed to get the oil in. Put about 2 ounces in each. Total is 10 ounces - spread throughout.
Don't forget to put some in the Accumulator too. And there should be a few ounces left in the Compressor. Coat all the O-rings lights before hose assembly.
Lastly after you want to be able to turn the compressor by hand a few times before putting the belt on and starting engine (you can jumper low pressure cutout switch to engage clutch, then rotate by hand). Of course they make a tool for this, but you can do it with a rag in hand.
It's for a 1996 Ford ranger 4.0 engine. Autozone #74809 $18.99.
I looked at this 4-port heater control valve (the AutoZone one) and it had bad User reviews. It might be wiser to get the Motorcraft version which is part YG350 (Ford F87H18495AA). It's about the same price as the AutoZone one (Autozone uses 4Seasons/Everco brand) at Rockauto.
Also the E350s (5.8L and 7.5L) use a heater control valve, but it's a two-port valve. p/n YG136 (Ford D4AH18495BA, AA). It is for 5/8" heater hose.
Not sure why the Ranger 4-port version would be more desirable. I think I will get the 2-port one. Easier hook up - and it looks more sturdy. I just want to stop the coolant flow through the heater core to improve AC cooling, so this should do the job.
I looked at this 4-port heater control valve (the AutoZone one) and it had bad User reviews. It might be wiser to get the Motorcraft version which is part YG350 (Ford F87H18495AA). It's about the same price as the AutoZone one (Autozone uses 4Seasons/Everco brand) at Rockauto.
Also the E350s (5.8L and 7.5L) use a heater control valve, but it's a two-port valve. p/n YG136 (Ford D4AH18495BA, AA). It is for 5/8" heater hose.
Not sure why the Ranger 4-port version would be more desirable. I think I will get the 2-port one. Easier hook up - and it looks more sturdy. I just want to stop the coolant flow through the heater core to improve AC cooling, so this should do the job.
LOL I did the same thing last night and also saw the bad reviews and looked else were for a different brand.
I did see that Motorcraft one on Amazon and if the wife gets the hint (sees it) maybe she will get it. I just don't need it right now so it would be "stored" it I need it.
The reason why I would go with the 4 port over the 2 port is the 2 port closes off flow where the 4 port bypass the heater core but keeps the flow going.
Reason II: if the engineers wanted the flow there had to be a good reason and I think that is with coolant still moving the way it should thru the motor you would not get hot spots.
That is why I want to run a 4 port valve.
ps; if I find that valve does not last I will find something else to use.
I was wondering how the 4 port valve gets hooked up?
Dave ----
Did you add oil to the Condenser and Evaporator? It's easier when it is out so you turn the unit however needed to get the oil in. Put about 2 ounces in each. Total is 10 ounces - spread throughout.
Don't forget to put some in the Accumulator too. And there should be a few ounces left in the Compressor. Coat all the O-rings lights before hose assembly.
Lastly after you want to be able to turn the compressor by hand a few times before putting the belt on and starting engine (you can jumper low pressure cutout switch to engage clutch, then rotate by hand). Of course they make a tool for this, but you can do it with a rag in hand.
I forgot to put it in the condenser, but I did put a little in the accumulator and evaporator. The kit that came with the compressor only came with 8 ounces. I guess I'll stop and pick some up. I'll put the rest in the compressor and then a couple ounces out of the new bottle in the condenser, that way I'll have the new bottle for all the O-rings. Speaking of O-rings, that leak stop kit apparently was just a bag full of all sorts of assorted O-rings.
Not sure what the metal ones are for.
about to leave and bring my hoses to the O'Reilly auto parts in the next little town over, it's the only one in the area that will redo the hoses for you. While I'm in there I also need to pick up some sort of foam gasket stuff for the evaporator housing, whatever Ford used originally is all gone now.
The reason why I would go with the 4 port over the 2 port is the 2 port closes off flow where the 4 port bypass the heater core but keeps the flow going.
Reason II: if the engineers wanted the flow there had to be a good reason and I think that is with coolant still moving the way it should thru the motor you would not get hot spots.
That is why I want to run a 4 port valve.
I was wondering how the 4 port valve gets hooked up?
Dave ----
I see no reason to keep the flow going. It's not doing anything. IMO. The Ranger version has an oil cooler so it needs to keep flow going when heater core is bypassed - but we don't need to.
I'm not too worried about offending the Ford Engineers. If they knew what they were doing all the time, we wouldn't need to do the headlight relay upgrade.
I see no reason to keep the flow going. It's not doing anything. IMO. The Ranger version has an oil cooler so it needs to keep flow going when heater core is bypassed - but we don't need to
I installed the 2 port version when I originally did this mod. After a few months, the housing split in two and all coolant was quickly lost. I've since modified my modification and am running the 4 port version instead.
My hunch for the failure: The 2 port version completely stops the coolant flow. The valve had to restrain full output from the water pump. Whether the material was defective or whatever, it failed. My son was borrowing the truck and nearly toasted the engine.
The 4 port version doesn't stop the coolant flow. It merely diverts it back to the water pump inlet. No pump pressure is restrained by this valve. In theory, it lives an easier life.
I was wondering how the 4 port valve gets hooked up?
Dave ----
I put a tee in the vacuum line going to the inside/outside air servo over by the pass side hood hinge. This servo gets vacuum only when the lever inside is on "max". We had a thread on this, and I think Gary found a un-used port on the slide lever in the dash that he was going to cut open and use that, even though he would have to run another vacuum line out under the hood.
They have electrical solenoids that will control vacuum if you wanted a separate switch on the dash. The way I did it was quick and easy.
It looks like everything is hooked up correctly, it's been over an hour and it's still holding almost 30" of mercury.
The only hickup was the low site quick connect adapter on the accumulator. The was already an needle valve thing in the accumulator that I had to remove before i could screw on the adapter.
I used this on the evaporator cover. Hopefully it seals.
I'm ready to refill, anyone know how much R134a it takes?
Last update for the night. Pulled vacuum for about 45 min, then closed the manifold gauges and hooked up the r134a. Put a little in the low side and let if sit for a few minutes. Opended the low side and started the truck, put a/c on max. Compressor pulley spins freely but the compressor never kicks on. Have the PCS moved over from the old accumulator. Not sure what to check next. Maybe replace the pressure control switch? Not that I know what that does specifically (besides "control pressure").
