Broken locking tab on COP connector

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Jul 2, 2017 | 08:46 AM

waldreps

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From: MN

Broken locking tab on COP connector

In removing the COPs on my 2004 F150 Lariat 5.4L for a spark plug change, I noticed that the locking tab on one of the electrical connectors that plugs into the COP is broken. The previous owner had a zip tie on it to keep it on. Can I purchase a new connector and splice it on so that I don't have to use a zip tie? If so, anybody know a part number? Thanks.

Jul 2, 2017 | 09:20 AM

steve(ill)

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Set of 8 pc Modular Ignition Coil Connector Pigtail Plug for Ford 4.6L 5.4L 6.8L

Jul 2, 2017 | 09:45 AM

waldreps

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From: MN

Cool, thanks. Do you think there's anything special about splicing them? Would a normal crimp connector be sufficient?

Jul 2, 2017 | 12:38 PM

P.Bronner

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From: Chico,CA.

I'd feel a whole lot better about the zip-tie than I would with a butt splice connector. You will have just introduced two new places for water/corrosion to start, and a new and likely spot for the wire to fracture due to flex/stress. I'd leave it alone and use the zip-tie.

Jul 2, 2017 | 02:31 PM

steve(ill)

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the splice needs to be soldered and shrink wrap cover over it....... NO, a pinch connecter would not be adequate.. I have installed a few of these--- works great if done CORRECTLY.

Jul 2, 2017 | 08:37 PM

waldreps

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From: MN

Turns out I have two broken. I've got them zip tied right now. I did order some more connectors but I don't think I can solder in such a cramped area. Maybe I'll try the heat shrink splice connectors cause they advertise a moisture resistant seal. Even getting in there to strip wires will be tough though.

Jul 2, 2017 | 09:31 PM

46fordtruck

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From: Orange County, CA

You can also buy shrink wrap tubing that you cut to length and can slip over the weather proof splice for a little extra piece of mind. But definitely don't leave the zip tie method.

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Jul 2, 2017 | 10:26 PM

waldreps

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From: MN

Quote:

Originally Posted by steve(ill)

The replacements I'm getting already have the wires in them and I don't really want to add more wire and therefore another splice. Also, the way mine are wired in the wiring harness, I'd have to cut into the harness and try to pull wires back to create a few more inches. I'm not sure that's worth the trouble. I don't like cutting apart wiring harnesses. I don't really feel comfortable soldering in such tight quarters or even on a table. I've done it and it always takes forever to heat up and then I've overheated it and melted the wire and insulation. I'm on my own on this one so I think I'm going to have to make a waterproof crimp splice work. I know the soldered connection is better but not when it's done wrong. Right now the zip tie seems to be holding pretty good. Maybe I'll practice soldering and eventually give it a try.

Jul 3, 2017 | 06:58 AM

#10

Shadow351

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From: Ohio

Don't know how much working room you have, but you could try removing the pins from the original connector housing and installing them in the replacement connector housing. No cutting or splicing required, if there is room to work, I know these engines are kinda packed in there.

Jul 3, 2017 | 07:32 AM

#11

waldreps

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From: MN

Only replacing the connector housing... That's a good idea. I'll look into that. Thanks.

Jul 6, 2017 | 07:15 PM

#12

waldreps

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From: MN

Well, I tried only replacing the housing like the above video (thanks Shadow351 for that) shows but the cheap connectors I got off ebay don't hold the wire in exactly the same spot in the connector as the oem one so that didn't work. The cheapest I can find the oem connector is about $35 each. One interesting note, the oem replacement part comes with the connector with pigtail wires, butt splice, and heat shrink tubing. If you take it to a dealer to get fixed, that's what they're gonna do. I'm thinking if it's good enough for the manufacturer, it's good enough for me. I'm either going to stick with the zip ties or butt splice my new connectors on. My new Motorcraft COPs get here tomorrow so I'll decide then.