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First off thanks to all of you guys for all the info and tutorials on here. I was able to wire my remote start with no problem but my keyless entry is proving more difficult. I have an '03 F250 with no OEM security, with power locks. I attempted to do the relays but I can get it to work. I installed a viper alarm and the lock/unlock only sends out a -200ma signal and it doesn't seem that's enough to trigger the relay. I'm using two 12v 30 amp 5 pin relays.
I spliced into my door harness already and have the door motor wires on the 30 poles, and respective lock/unlock wires on 87a. I've attempted the 12v on 87 and 86 with my viper alarm lock/unlock wires on 85.
The 2003 diagram I have only shows the wiring with a security module so I had to use the 2004 diagram, hopefully it is the same as your 2003 wiring. But see the attached PDF for the correct way to wire. Note that the A & B arrows switch places from page 1 to page 2. Also note that you must tap in to the circuit after the passenger switch as shown. You cannot tap in at the driver's switch or else you will create a dead short and blow the 30-amp #102 fuse.
Awesome, thanks, yeah I blew the fuse twice already. When you say access it after the passenger switch I can access in the passenger side kick panel correct?
I'm 2003 the power lock system is totally different between the ones woth remote and without. I did mine and it took a while to find the right wireing diagram.
IIRC the trucks witout the keyless remote was a type C (do a search). The ones with the keyless remote are either type A or B, cant remember witch.
When you say access it after the passenger switch I can access in the passenger side kick panel correct?
Hard to say because of how they might've run the wires. If the wires come off the passenger switch and hit the lock actuator in that door before leaving the door, then you'll have to run 4 wires into the door and cut the 2 wires coming off the switch (A&B) that run to the actuators. Then connect one wire to each of the 4 new wire ends. Two of these 4 wires become A&B from the switch and the other 2 becomes A&B to the actuators.
If however the A&B wires comes off the switch and exit the door before being spliced to run power to all the actuators, then you can cut and tap into them at the passenger kick panel.
Ok I see what you're saying. I'll let you know when I get it to work or set it on fire either way. Last question I have though is the power coming off the Viper enough to trigger the relay? The manual says it's only sending -200ma.
Last question I have though is the power coming off the Viper enough to trigger the relay? The manual says it's only sending -200ma.
Yes -200ma is enough to drive a small relay such as those automotive relays with the 30, 87, & 87a terminal markings. Those coils tend to draw 150-200ma but it's also momentary and does not stay energized for more than a 1/2 second or so.
Are you sure the output is only -200ma? I ask because the door lock outputs on my Viper unit is -500ma.
Ok. So I wired everything up and so far no fuses blown, but no remote lock/unlock. I found in my passenger door that I have a PINK/YELLOW and PINK/GREEN that receive power from the drivers side switch. I found a PINK/BLACK and PINK/ORANGE that sends power from the passenger switch to I assume goes into the wire loom and then splits to the actuator. I ran 4 wires into the door panel and cut the PINK/BLACK and PINK/ORANGE and then ran then to the relay. What am I missing? The power locks still work with the switch but not the remote. You were also right in the fact that it does send a -500ma signal. I dont even hear the relay clicking. Is there a way to hook the remote wires (Blue/Green) to the relay and a power source just to see if the relay will activate?
Thanks again folks
Last edited by Jkamiy; Jul 8, 2017 at 03:40 PM.
Reason: Typo
Is there a way to hook the remote wires (Blue/Green) to the relay and a power source just to see if the relay will activate?
I wouldn't apply power to the relay with it still connected to the Viper unit, you could smoke the unit. If you hooked up always hot +12volts to one side of the relay coil like shown in the drawing, then all you have to do is disconnect the relay coil wire running to the Viper and touch the one from the relay coil to ground and the relay should click.
Ok... so finally gave up. Took the truck to Best Buy only to find out I had a bad brain out of the box apparently from Viper. While the led would flash when locked/armed and unlocked it wouldn't actually activate the relays. They put in a new brain and it worked like a champ. So needless to say wasted a couple days trouble shooting with you guys only to find out it was because of a bad box. Everything works now though so thanks for all your help!!