Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) Diesel Topics Only

Where to install fuel check valve?

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Old 06-24-2017, 07:42 PM
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What size checkvalve should I use? Could you give me a link to one? And where should I put it? Thanks
 
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Old 06-25-2017, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by 1993 ford
What size checkvalve should I use? Could you give me a link to one? And where should I put it? Thanks
What I've always done is remove the hard line from the lift pump up to the filter housing. I replace with rubber hose(3/8" IIRC).
In order to do this, you'll need to keep the stock fitting coming out of the lift pump(unless you find an adapter), so I just cut the bottom 3" or so off the hard line with a tubing cutter.
Clean it up, hose clamp some 3/8" tubing onto it.
Run the hose upwards and towards the filter housing.

Cut the hose such that you have some room to work with, and install your check valve up high next to the filter, where you can get to it. I generally make a loop across the fender well, so I've got about 12" of slack to play with.

Install a 3/8" hose barb into the filter housing input. Now, just connect a second hose from the output of the check valve to the filter.

As for what I use for the check valve? I use a squeeze-bulb primer. The sort for marine use.

Not only does it work as a check valve(it has two inside), but it allows for manual priming, as well as checking for air - you'll feel air if you squeeze the bulb.
 
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Old 06-25-2017, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Macrobb
What I've always done is remove the hard line from the lift pump up to the filter housing. I replace with rubber hose(3/8" IIRC).
In order to do this, you'll need to keep the stock fitting coming out of the lift pump(unless you find an adapter), so I just cut the bottom 3" or so off the hard line with a tubing cutter.
Clean it up, hose clamp some 3/8" tubing onto it.
Run the hose upwards and towards the filter housing.

Cut the hose such that you have some room to work with, and install your check valve up high next to the filter, where you can get to it. I generally make a loop across the fender well, so I've got about 12" of slack to play with.

Install a 3/8" hose barb into the filter housing input. Now, just connect a second hose from the output of the check valve to the filter.

As for what I use for the check valve? I use a squeeze-bulb primer. The sort for marine use.

Not only does it work as a check valve(it has two inside), but it allows for manual priming, as well as checking for air - you'll feel air if you squeeze the bulb.
Insted of taking the line off the filter housing could I just cut a section out of it and slide some 3/8 hose over it and in the middle of the rubber hose install my check valve?
 
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Old 06-25-2017, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by 1993 ford
Insted of taking the whole line off could I just cut a section out of it and slide some 3/8 hose over it and in the middle of the rubber hose install my check valve?
Yes, but it'll be easier to work on if you remove it. It's not too hard to do anyway.

Plus, it means you can get rid of the "olive" seal right at the inlet of the fuel filter.
 
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Old 06-25-2017, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Macrobb
Yes, but it'll be easier to work on if you remove it. It's not too hard to do anyway.

Plus, it means you can get rid of the "olive" seal right at the inlet of the fuel filter.
i agree that is will be easier to work on. What I don't under stand is how the 3/8 hose is going to connect at the top of the filter housing because that is threaded.
 
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Old 06-25-2017, 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Macrobb
Yes, but it'll be easier to work on if you remove it. It's not too hard to do anyway.

Plus, it means you can get rid of the "olive" seal right at the inlet of the fuel filter.
You would have to do the same thing at the top as you did the bottom which is cut the line about three inches back from the fitting. Wouldent you?
 
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Old 06-25-2017, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by 1993 ford
You would have to do the same thing at the top as you did the bottom which is cut the line about three inches back from the fitting. Wouldent you?
Remove the adapter from the filter housing, and install a 3/8 hose barb -> 3/8 NPT adapter from your local auto parts store.

The threads going into the aluminum filter housing is simply 3/8 NPT
 
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Old 06-25-2017, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Macrobb
Remove the adapter from the filter housing, and install a 3/8 hose barb -> 3/8 NPT adapter from your local auto parts store.

The threads going into the aluminum filter housing is simply 3/8 NPT
Oh ok I just ordered one. Will be a little bit before I can install it waiting for check valve and hose barb adapter to get here but will let you know
 
  #24  
Old 06-25-2017, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Macrobb
Remove the adapter from the filter housing, and install a 3/8 hose barb -> 3/8 NPT adapter from your local auto parts store.

The threads going into the aluminum filter housing is simply 3/8 NPT
Was going to ask you do you have any advice on changing glowplugs? I will be putting penetrating oil on them ever day for a couple of days before I do the job. I had originally bought Autolite glowplugs but after reading reviews sent them back and got motorcraft. Didn't want to take the chance with Autolites.
 
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Old 06-25-2017, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 1993 ford
Was going to ask you do you have any advice on changing glowplugs? I will be putting penetrating oil on them ever day for a couple of days before I do the job. I had originally bought Autolite glowplugs but after reading reviews sent them back and got motorcraft. Didn't want to take the chance with Autolites.
Anything but Autolites, pretty much.
Motorcraft are the best, but I've ended up with working sets of Champions as well.
Autolites, however, I still haven't found a /single/ working(used) one in the last 5 years.

That being said, I've only had one or two autolites actually bulge to the point they were hard to remove. Most just... die.
 
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