Where to install fuel check valve?
#17
In order to do this, you'll need to keep the stock fitting coming out of the lift pump(unless you find an adapter), so I just cut the bottom 3" or so off the hard line with a tubing cutter.
Clean it up, hose clamp some 3/8" tubing onto it.
Run the hose upwards and towards the filter housing.
Cut the hose such that you have some room to work with, and install your check valve up high next to the filter, where you can get to it. I generally make a loop across the fender well, so I've got about 12" of slack to play with.
Install a 3/8" hose barb into the filter housing input. Now, just connect a second hose from the output of the check valve to the filter.
As for what I use for the check valve? I use a squeeze-bulb primer. The sort for marine use.
Not only does it work as a check valve(it has two inside), but it allows for manual priming, as well as checking for air - you'll feel air if you squeeze the bulb.
#18
What I've always done is remove the hard line from the lift pump up to the filter housing. I replace with rubber hose(3/8" IIRC).
In order to do this, you'll need to keep the stock fitting coming out of the lift pump(unless you find an adapter), so I just cut the bottom 3" or so off the hard line with a tubing cutter.
Clean it up, hose clamp some 3/8" tubing onto it.
Run the hose upwards and towards the filter housing.
Cut the hose such that you have some room to work with, and install your check valve up high next to the filter, where you can get to it. I generally make a loop across the fender well, so I've got about 12" of slack to play with.
Install a 3/8" hose barb into the filter housing input. Now, just connect a second hose from the output of the check valve to the filter.
As for what I use for the check valve? I use a squeeze-bulb primer. The sort for marine use.
Not only does it work as a check valve(it has two inside), but it allows for manual priming, as well as checking for air - you'll feel air if you squeeze the bulb.
In order to do this, you'll need to keep the stock fitting coming out of the lift pump(unless you find an adapter), so I just cut the bottom 3" or so off the hard line with a tubing cutter.
Clean it up, hose clamp some 3/8" tubing onto it.
Run the hose upwards and towards the filter housing.
Cut the hose such that you have some room to work with, and install your check valve up high next to the filter, where you can get to it. I generally make a loop across the fender well, so I've got about 12" of slack to play with.
Install a 3/8" hose barb into the filter housing input. Now, just connect a second hose from the output of the check valve to the filter.
As for what I use for the check valve? I use a squeeze-bulb primer. The sort for marine use.
Not only does it work as a check valve(it has two inside), but it allows for manual priming, as well as checking for air - you'll feel air if you squeeze the bulb.
#19
Plus, it means you can get rid of the "olive" seal right at the inlet of the fuel filter.
#20
i agree that is will be easier to work on. What I don't under stand is how the 3/8 hose is going to connect at the top of the filter housing because that is threaded.
#21
You would have to do the same thing at the top as you did the bottom which is cut the line about three inches back from the fitting. Wouldent you?
#22
The threads going into the aluminum filter housing is simply 3/8 NPT
#23
Oh ok I just ordered one. Will be a little bit before I can install it waiting for check valve and hose barb adapter to get here but will let you know
#24
Was going to ask you do you have any advice on changing glowplugs? I will be putting penetrating oil on them ever day for a couple of days before I do the job. I had originally bought Autolite glowplugs but after reading reviews sent them back and got motorcraft. Didn't want to take the chance with Autolites.
#25
Was going to ask you do you have any advice on changing glowplugs? I will be putting penetrating oil on them ever day for a couple of days before I do the job. I had originally bought Autolite glowplugs but after reading reviews sent them back and got motorcraft. Didn't want to take the chance with Autolites.
Motorcraft are the best, but I've ended up with working sets of Champions as well.
Autolites, however, I still haven't found a /single/ working(used) one in the last 5 years.
That being said, I've only had one or two autolites actually bulge to the point they were hard to remove. Most just... die.
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