Where to install fuel check valve?
#1
Where to install fuel check valve?
Hello I have a 1993 Ford F-250 with a 7.3 nonturbo. When I am on my back fuel tank and the truck sits for a while it takes a little bit to start. I checked for fuel leaks and couldn't find any. So I decided to get a fuel check valve. Where should I install the fuel check valve? Will this check valve work http://www.siliconeintakes.com/index.php?products_id=9581 thanks
#2
This may temporarily relieve your problem, but somewhere between the fuel selector valve and the fuel in the rear tank it is leaking.
My first vote would be the rear sending unit has a pinhole in it, second I would say the selector valve..
Put it as close to the fuel as possible. This will require cutting and splicing your fuel line which is iffy to say the least when it comes to nylon.
My first vote would be the rear sending unit has a pinhole in it, second I would say the selector valve..
Put it as close to the fuel as possible. This will require cutting and splicing your fuel line which is iffy to say the least when it comes to nylon.
#3
This may temporarily relieve your problem, but somewhere between the fuel selector valve and the fuel in the rear tank it is leaking.
My first vote would be the rear sending unit has a pinhole in it, second I would say the selector valve..
Put it as close to the fuel as possible. This will require cutting and splicing your fuel line which is iffy to say the least when it comes to nylon.
My first vote would be the rear sending unit has a pinhole in it, second I would say the selector valve..
Put it as close to the fuel as possible. This will require cutting and splicing your fuel line which is iffy to say the least when it comes to nylon.
#4
This may temporarily relieve your problem, but somewhere between the fuel selector valve and the fuel in the rear tank it is leaking.
My first vote would be the rear sending unit has a pinhole in it, second I would say the selector valve..
Put it as close to the fuel as possible. This will require cutting and splicing your fuel line which is iffy to say the least when it comes to nylon.
My first vote would be the rear sending unit has a pinhole in it, second I would say the selector valve..
Put it as close to the fuel as possible. This will require cutting and splicing your fuel line which is iffy to say the least when it comes to nylon.
#5
This may temporarily relieve your problem, but somewhere between the fuel selector valve and the fuel in the rear tank it is leaking.
My first vote would be the rear sending unit has a pinhole in it, second I would say the selector valve..
Put it as close to the fuel as possible. This will require cutting and splicing your fuel line which is iffy to say the least when it comes to nylon.
My first vote would be the rear sending unit has a pinhole in it, second I would say the selector valve..
Put it as close to the fuel as possible. This will require cutting and splicing your fuel line which is iffy to say the least when it comes to nylon.
#6
This may temporarily relieve your problem, but somewhere between the fuel selector valve and the fuel in the rear tank it is leaking.
My first vote would be the rear sending unit has a pinhole in it, second I would say the selector valve..
Put it as close to the fuel as possible. This will require cutting and splicing your fuel line which is iffy to say the least when it comes to nylon.
My first vote would be the rear sending unit has a pinhole in it, second I would say the selector valve..
Put it as close to the fuel as possible. This will require cutting and splicing your fuel line which is iffy to say the least when it comes to nylon.
#7
It sounds like an air leak somewhere. 3-5 seconds is nothing to really be worried about though. Little long for hot but it could be your injection main rotor in the pump starting to show its age.
I prefer to double clamp any rubber lines where they go to a hose barb/filter and I've never had the need to use teflon on one of those fuel pumps. It doesn't seal on the threads like a water pipe, it has a flare type connector inside of it. Try loosening and tightening the fitting a few times to help reseat it.
Get the truck up to operating temperature, shut it off and see how long it takes to crank, if it fires right up your pump is fine, if it mainly happens after sitting 20min to a couple hours it's air related/fuel drainback. If it only happens when cold your start times are perfectly normal.
I prefer to double clamp any rubber lines where they go to a hose barb/filter and I've never had the need to use teflon on one of those fuel pumps. It doesn't seal on the threads like a water pipe, it has a flare type connector inside of it. Try loosening and tightening the fitting a few times to help reseat it.
Get the truck up to operating temperature, shut it off and see how long it takes to crank, if it fires right up your pump is fine, if it mainly happens after sitting 20min to a couple hours it's air related/fuel drainback. If it only happens when cold your start times are perfectly normal.
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#8
It sounds like an air leak somewhere. 3-5 seconds is nothing to really be worried about though. Little long for hot but it could be your injection main rotor in the pump starting to show its age.
I prefer to double clamp any rubber lines where they go to a hose barb/filter and I've never had the need to use teflon on one of those fuel pumps. It doesn't seal on the threads like a water pipe, it has a flare type connector inside of it. Try loosening and tightening the fitting a few times to help reseat it.
Get the truck up to operating temperature, shut it off and see how long it takes to crank, if it fires right up your pump is fine, if it mainly happens after sitting 20min to a couple hours it's air related/fuel drainback. If it only happens when cold your start times are perfectly normal.
I prefer to double clamp any rubber lines where they go to a hose barb/filter and I've never had the need to use teflon on one of those fuel pumps. It doesn't seal on the threads like a water pipe, it has a flare type connector inside of it. Try loosening and tightening the fitting a few times to help reseat it.
Get the truck up to operating temperature, shut it off and see how long it takes to crank, if it fires right up your pump is fine, if it mainly happens after sitting 20min to a couple hours it's air related/fuel drainback. If it only happens when cold your start times are perfectly normal.
#10
It takes the longest to start in the morning. It will start right up 20, 30 minutes after it sits. Anything after 40 minutes it starts to take a little bit to start. Going to try to seal up the threads on the metal fuel line and install a fuel check valve where the inline fuel filter is. Do you think that will help? I also have 8 new motorcraft glow plugs to install.
#11
Does it smoke white while cranking, or no smoke?
If smoke, your problem is glow plugs. If no smoke, you might be right with a check valve.
Also, if the check valve fixes it, you might want to try pulling the bed(not that hard, actually) and go through both tanks, replacing the (probably shot) fuel pickups and checking the O-rings on the lines that connect.
If smoke, your problem is glow plugs. If no smoke, you might be right with a check valve.
Also, if the check valve fixes it, you might want to try pulling the bed(not that hard, actually) and go through both tanks, replacing the (probably shot) fuel pickups and checking the O-rings on the lines that connect.
#12
Does it smoke white while cranking, or no smoke?
If smoke, your problem is glow plugs. If no smoke, you might be right with a check valve.
Also, if the check valve fixes it, you might want to try pulling the bed(not that hard, actually) and go through both tanks, replacing the (probably shot) fuel pickups and checking the O-rings on the lines that connect.
If smoke, your problem is glow plugs. If no smoke, you might be right with a check valve.
Also, if the check valve fixes it, you might want to try pulling the bed(not that hard, actually) and go through both tanks, replacing the (probably shot) fuel pickups and checking the O-rings on the lines that connect.
#13
Does it smoke white while cranking, or no smoke?
If smoke, your problem is glow plugs. If no smoke, you might be right with a check valve.
Also, if the check valve fixes it, you might want to try pulling the bed(not that hard, actually) and go through both tanks, replacing the (probably shot) fuel pickups and checking the O-rings on the lines that connect.
If smoke, your problem is glow plugs. If no smoke, you might be right with a check valve.
Also, if the check valve fixes it, you might want to try pulling the bed(not that hard, actually) and go through both tanks, replacing the (probably shot) fuel pickups and checking the O-rings on the lines that connect.
#14
White generally. (totally unburned fuel)
You'll see some gray/black when it is actually starting, which is normal. If it's more than just a puff, though, and keeps smoking when it's running, that's another problem(usually retarded timing or injector issues).
No, because the oil won't be hot enough to actually vaporize at cold start.
Aand all IDIs have massive blow by. It's just the way things are; the engine was pretty much designed around it, what with the very large ring gaps and all..
You'll see some gray/black when it is actually starting, which is normal. If it's more than just a puff, though, and keeps smoking when it's running, that's another problem(usually retarded timing or injector issues).
No, because the oil won't be hot enough to actually vaporize at cold start.
Aand all IDIs have massive blow by. It's just the way things are; the engine was pretty much designed around it, what with the very large ring gaps and all..
#15
White generally. (totally unburned fuel)
You'll see some gray/black when it is actually starting, which is normal. If it's more than just a puff, though, and keeps smoking when it's running, that's another problem(usually retarded timing or injector issues).
No, because the oil won't be hot enough to actually vaporize at cold start.
Aand all IDIs have massive blow by. It's just the way things are; the engine was pretty much designed around it, what with the very large ring gaps and all..
You'll see some gray/black when it is actually starting, which is normal. If it's more than just a puff, though, and keeps smoking when it's running, that's another problem(usually retarded timing or injector issues).
No, because the oil won't be hot enough to actually vaporize at cold start.
Aand all IDIs have massive blow by. It's just the way things are; the engine was pretty much designed around it, what with the very large ring gaps and all..