Plug Hole?
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Plug Hole?
Hey All,
New here. Just picked up a dreamy 63' 292 F100 and have been working on the oil leak. I've not much experience on these trucks, and there is a question I have.
I power washed underneath to get a better look, and saw that there is a cover that is towards the back of the truck. It has a rounded bottom, and in the center is what looks like a bolt hole dead center. In a schematic I sourced, it seems to be part 7564. I tried to find a bolt that fit, but could not, nor does it seem threaded.
Is this a plug hole of some sort? I stopped it up temporarily and it stopped a lot of oil.
Thanks for any info.
Pete
New here. Just picked up a dreamy 63' 292 F100 and have been working on the oil leak. I've not much experience on these trucks, and there is a question I have.
I power washed underneath to get a better look, and saw that there is a cover that is towards the back of the truck. It has a rounded bottom, and in the center is what looks like a bolt hole dead center. In a schematic I sourced, it seems to be part 7564. I tried to find a bolt that fit, but could not, nor does it seem threaded.
Is this a plug hole of some sort? I stopped it up temporarily and it stopped a lot of oil.
Thanks for any info.
Pete
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,771
Likes: 80
From: tujunga, calif
It sounds like you are talking about the flywheel cover. These engines when old typically leak from the rear main seal, drip down inside the rear of the engine and it comes out the hole in the center of the cover. DO NOT PLUG THE HOLE!
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New User
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Thank You for the info! Def what it is. It is unplugged. I am going to take it in, ( I do not have a garage at the moment 
) What does a rear main usually run cost-wise? I will likely ask that they do both rear main, and possibly trans seal if they need to separate both depending on cost. This forum is great, glad I found it as I am looking forward to learning more about the Y-block
) What does a rear main usually run cost-wise? I will likely ask that they do both rear main, and possibly trans seal if they need to separate both depending on cost. This forum is great, glad I found it as I am looking forward to learning more about the Y-block
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2014
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Y block rear mains are difficult to leak-proof....particularly if its a 312. 292 not so bad. If its a 312 the crank journal usually needs to be polished and sized for a neoprene seal. If its a 292, probably just a seal...not a big job.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Welcome to FTE
Here's a pretty comprehensive article about rear main seal that should help get you up to speed:
http://www.eatonbalancing.com/2008/0...-y-and-others/
Here's a pretty comprehensive article about rear main seal that should help get you up to speed:
http://www.eatonbalancing.com/2008/0...-y-and-others/
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,771
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From: tujunga, calif
I've seen success and failure with both types. Not an easy job by any means. I have no idea what a shop would charge with todays prices if you can even find someone with experience to do it. I've never had a car or truck go to a shop except for wheel alignment so I have no idea on pricing. How bad is the leak? Sometimes if it isn't too bad, like just a few drips when parked you are better to live with it. If it's a problem where you park use a drip pan.
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From: Simi Valley, CA
1957/59 F100/700 272/292; 1960/64 F100/700 223/292; 1961/64 262.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2014
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In my opinion, a neoprene seal is much easier to install with the engine in the truck than is a rope seal. The newer rope seal materials are not as good as the old ones, but they do make a good neoprene seal for the 292. Its not that difficult but, like anything else, has little tricks associated. I would read the threads on the subject prior to approaching it.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
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Before replacing the rear main, make sure it is the rear main. There are numerous places for a leak to develop that can appear to be the rear main seal. They include but are not limited to: valve covers, valley pan, intake flange bolts, oil filter, oil filter adapter (if spin on), oil pump, oil pickup tube, oil galley plugs, cam plug, oil pan, 2 rear center oil pan studs.
If you hire a shop to do this, you want a shop that is familiar with older engines. If you take it to a shop that deals with modern vehicles which, understandably, most do, then they will not have a clue how to deal with a rope or 2 piece rear main seal. That means you will spend money on a job that will probably have to be done over again, either by you or another shop, possibly repeating the cycle.
If you hire a shop to do this, you want a shop that is familiar with older engines. If you take it to a shop that deals with modern vehicles which, understandably, most do, then they will not have a clue how to deal with a rope or 2 piece rear main seal. That means you will spend money on a job that will probably have to be done over again, either by you or another shop, possibly repeating the cycle.
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